Burda 08-2009-110, Tweed Pencil Skirt and Tutorial for Machine Stitched Lining Insertion for Invisible Zips

I have been totally into pencil skirts lately so I've been trying out the various Burda magazine patterns. This one is Burda 08-2009-110. I like the higher waist and the front pleats, which give it a little more of an interesting shape.

I made two of these, first in wool tweed from The Carol Collection and then in the rectangles fabric leftover from my Butterick 5321 pleat front sheath when I realized I didn't have any print skirts that matched my navy wrap blouse from Burda 02-2009-123.

For the first I did a swayback adjustment by folding a wedge out of the back below the waistline. Unfortunately, I shouldn't have done this because the back waistline dips down and the belt rides above the skirt. I do like the belt loops, but I left them off for the second skirt as I planned to wear it with the blouse that would cover them.

I shortened the skirt three inches by folding out the pattern above the slit. I cut the slit as drafted but it ended up cutting way, way too high (almost to my bum) and I ended up sewing the top 1.5 inches closed. For the rectangles version, I kept the same length adjustment but shortened the slit by those 1.5 inches.

The pattern includes a facing, but my wool tweed was quite scratchy and I didn't want any of it on the inside. So I fully lined it, using the same pattern as for the outer fabric. This is the method I use for getting a clean, machine stitched lining insertion with an invisible zipper. I am sure I am not the first to come up with it, but in looking at other zipper tutorials I didn't find anything exactly like it--probably because it's so slapdash!


Machine Stitched Lining with an Invisible Zip Tutorial

1. Fully construct the skirt (or dress) and install the invisible zipper in your fashion fabric. Then construct the lining other than the seam for the zipper, which should be left completely unsewn.



2. As shown above, stitch the lining to the fashion fabric at the waistband (neckline for a dress), catching the upper edges of the zipper tape and putting your stitch line just slightly above the upper zipper stops. If you prefer, you can stitch 1/4 inch above the upper zipper stops and finish with a hook and eye, which allows you to get a crisper corner on that upper edge. Generally I'm ok with the slightly rounded corner you get by stitching all the way to the zipper teeth.



3. Next, place your fashion fabric and lining right sides together, matching outer edges. THIS IS IMPORTANT: Roll your fashion fabric over your lining slightly, so that the waistline seam (where the lining and fashion fabric are sewn together--in a dress this would be the neckline seam) rolls over to the inside a few millimeters. This is what will give you a nice look on the outside and keep the lining from peeking out above the zipper.





4. Pin those outer edges together, right sides together, maintaining that roll of the fashion fabric to the inside, then use your zipper foot to stitch the lining to the zipper tape. Don't get too close to your zipper teeth or you will make the zipper too difficult to open and close, but be sure to be close enough to catch in the zipper tape. Luckily, if you miss the zipper tape you can just sew another stitch line closer to the teeth, you don't have to rip out the original, too wide line. It's a lot easier to get the spacing right on the side where the fashion fabric is up because you can see your zipper seam line.










5. Turn the skirt right side out. You are almost there--you can see that the lining has enclosed the zipper tapes and it's already looking good on the inside (I was lazy and did not remove my basting stitch for the invisible zip; I only baste one side in, as explained here. The upper edge is going to have some bulk because the ends of the zipper tape are squished in there, so give it a good steam press and then pound. Then match up the lining edges, right sides together. I generally leave an unsewn opening of a couple of inches just to make sure I don't have any trouble opening the zipper all the way. Stitch the lining seam and press open.



And voila! It looks great on the outside and the inside and didn't involve any hand sewing of the lining to the zipper tape.

All photos of this project are here and the pattern review is here.

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The plan for New York!!!! We will meet this Friday, March 26, at Crisp at 12:30 for lunch and then on to shopping. It is at 110 W. 40th between Broadway and 7th, very close to Bryant Park. The weather does not sound like it will be eat outside weather, but a girl can hope. Please let me know if you will join!