Stashoholism Confessional: Goodwill Edition

So I am always reading about other people finding awesome vintage fabric and huge caches of amazing patterns at the Goodwill. The Goodwills in the greater DC area are a little too fancy. They go for a "boutique" concept, so the prices are a little higher and there is a LOT less merchandise on the floor, and nothing out of date. I check every time I drop stuff off, but I have never seen any patterns or fabric.

So when I read in the paper that the Goodwill was doing a traveling trunk show 11 blocks from my house and the paper specifically mentioned vintage fabric and buttons, I was so there!



There wasn't much by way of fabric--this was actually the only large piece I saw. Tons and tons of old linens, doilies, tablecloths, placemats, etc, but I'm stocked up on those. I think the fabric would be cute as a shift dress. I don't have enough shank buttons so I chose all the cute shank buttons I could find. I also picked up a bag of ribbon. Unfortunately, they're fairly short lengths--not long enough to go around the hem, but sufficient for a waistband or belt. They're really gorgeous, though. I also got some elastic (not pictured) and an all-metal eyelet setter. I have a Dritz eyelet setter and it is pretty much crap, but seriously doubt the all-metal eyelet setter will be any kind of advantage. I think the issue is with the eyelets and not the setter.

I ended up waaaaay overpaying for this stuff. The girl ringing it up was very confused and didn't really pay attention to the pricing structure. Buttons were supposed to be 99 cents "per set" and beads $1.99. But I think she charged me $1.99 for the buttons, including the card that has only one button on it. The total came out to $46. But I didn't want to be that person who haggles with the Goodwill, ya know? The money goes to a good cause.



To make myself feel better, I checked out eBay to see how much my nicer buttons would go for. I particularly love the glass flowers. They are probably pressed glass rather than cut glass, but they're really beautiful. I searched for "vintage czech glass buttons." eBay did not make me feel better because all the listings for similar buttons were $0.99! Oh well.



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I other news, my Knip Mode arrived already! Postage was expensive because they don't have non-express mail as an option for overseas mail from the Netherlands anymore, but it got to me in just a few days. Thank you, Geertje!









(click on the photos to enlarge)

Knip Mode was celebrating 40 years with 40 dresses in this issue! There aren't really 40 dresses as many are variations, but there are lots of cute dresses! In addition to the Martin Grant dress, I LOVE the other designer copy (#14, in yellow on the bottom row of the photo page) and the yoked raglan sleeve slightly trench-ish design (#7). I love a good trench dress, but I cannot wear any variation of khaki because of my coloring. Cidell and I were discussing this and she suggested navy. I don't wear a lot of navy, but I am kind of intrigued by the idea of a navy trench dress. But would the details show up at all? Anyway, that dress might be cute in navy.

Of course I have a million projects ahead of it! I need to do another project list, although I've only finished one from the most recent collage and have two remaining from the one before that. I keep going rogue and making things that aren't on the list. I've made three projects from my NYC fabric haul and this weekend was an unscheduled blouse of fabric purchased in March. But all of them were soooooo cute and so insistent that they be made RIGHT NOW that I had to do it. Fabric addiction is a demanding mistress.

Sewing for Other People: My Mom

When I went to visit my family over the holidays I brought two pairs of jeans and a bunch of tops. I'm working on traveling light (and my suitcase was full of gifts). One of the tops I brought was Knip Mode 4/08 #13, the fabulous gather front top. It is so fabulous that even my mom noticed it (she's not one for fashion) and asked for the pattern.

When I got home I called her for her measurements and started tracing out the pattern. But then I realized that she would never get around to making it for herself, so I better just make her one. I chose an aqua colored slinky from stash (I think I bought it from Fashion Fabrics Club 2 or 3 years ago). Then I realized that she probably didn't have anything to wear with the top so I found a coordinating wool plaid from The Carol Collection. Purple is her favorite color and she seems to like plaid skirts. I wanted a pattern that had only side seams to minimize plaid matching and with some pleats for roominess. BWOF 10-08-103 was perfect. Here it is!



She is allegedly going to get my dad to take a picture of her in the outfit and email it to me, but they have to learn several technologies before this can happen and I didn't want to wait. The top is my only contribution to the stash contest so I wanted to go ahead and post it and do the review!

I made the top pretty much as before, which is basically right out of the envelope (or magazine, I suppose). Because slinky is heavy and prone to growth spurts I used twill tape on the shoulders. I also hand sewed the collar together for a couple inches at the front. My mom dresses quite conservatively and is self conscious about a scar at the base of her neck from having thyroid surgery while she was pregnant with me, so she doesn't like low necklines. As I recall, she doesn't like V necklines at all, but she had seen the shirt and knew it was a V so I figured it would be ok.

The skirt went together well and easily. The pleat arrows didn't really work for me. The front has two sets of pleats, one on either side of CF. Both sets are supposed to be arranged sort of as a center extroverted pleat (opposite of inverted, I'm not sure what the real name is) with a pleat on either side facing in toward it. It didn't really look right so I had all the front pleats facing toward the closest side. The back pleats are supposed to be the same extroverted pleat with other pleats radiating but it would have poofed over her rear end (we are pretty much the exact same shape, just in different sizes), so I changed that to an inverted pleat with overlapping side pleats facing toward CB, as you can see here.

I really like BWOF's wide waistband for skirts. They have a nice contour, which is flattering. My tip is that where there are similar shaped waistband pieces, I mark them with chalk on the inside. In the photo you can see that I've written "FF" and "BF" for front facing and back facing. The back and front were marked with F and B. This saves a lot of unnecessary trouble.

I'm pretty proud of how well I matched plaid at the zipper/side seam. To get the skirt/waistband seam to line up perfectly, I machine stitched one side of the zipper and then hand-basted the other side in. As you can see, I cut the waistband on the cross grain after seeing how bad it looked to have a plaid waistband cut on grain in BWOF 09-2007-116 (I've since ripped the waistband out and inserted one on the cross-grain, just haven't taken pictures)

I kept the outfit a secret so she didn't know what was coming when she got a package from me. She said she was so excited that she cried, and when I talked to my dad later that week he said that my mom was pulling out the outfit for anyone who would look at it and had already worn it. She assures me it fits but of course I have no idea as I haven't seen a picture! I will look for more projects to sew for her. She is right on the cusp of regular and plus Burda sizes, so I will have a chance to sew some of those great Burda plus patterns I am always so envious of in the magazine.

All photos of the top are here and the review is here. The skirt photos are here and the review is here, and here she is in the outfit!



So now apparently I do sew for other people. I have two more people to sew for as yesterday--Jet and Marvel are now big brother and sister to twin brothers Cash and Fox, born February 24!

Knip Mode Pencil Skirt with Pleats

I didn't make many skirts last year because, well, I already have a.lot.of.skirts. I was on the phone with a friend a couple years ago complaining that I didn't have the right skirt for an outfit. She made me go in my closet and count how many skirts I had. I think it was somewhere around 50. So I have slowed down my skirt making since then! That said, I am ready to speed it back up because most of my skirts from years past are A line, and the pencil line is all fashionable now. And maybe I'm just being influenced by fashion, but I think it may be more flattering on me, and unquestionably it looks better with voluminous tops, of which I've made a fair amount recently. When I saw this one, Knip Mode 11/2007 #12, it had to go into my closet.

So I don't speak any Dutch, but I'm pretty sure "Met slimme details" means you'll look skinnier so I was sold on this skirt. Actually, I just loved that assymetric pleat detail. It gives a little interest to a straight skirt without making it too crazy. I am really digging the Knip Modes I borrowed from Cidell. In a way I almost wish I didn't know it existed because now I wants and have no way to gets.

The fabric for this came from Kashi, purchased during PR Weekend 2007. I thought that I could brag that I had used all the fabric I bought that weekend within 2008, but dang it! Now that I look again I see that the blue/gray stretch woven on the lower right is still in my stash. (The maroon jersey became a hideous wadder.) This skirt is a lovely gray stretch wool (on the blue-ish end of gray, but not actually blue) with orange windowpanes. Kashi alleged it was Italian, but as Karen points out, doesn't he always?

I hesitate to point an accusing finger at Knip Mode, because the patterns seem exquisitely well-drafted, but you can see that the skirt does not hang quite right at the side seam with the pleats. I actually corrected the line a bit during construction when I first noticed the problem, but it's still not right. Normally I am happy to take the blame, but I actually made a serious effort to get grain-perfect in cutting this out. It was cut out in single layer, so it's not an issue of folding it incorrectly. I even cut off the selvages of the fabric because they were distorting the lay a little bit! So I don't know where the problem arose.

The pattern directions have you cut a straight piece of fabric for a waistband, but I really prefer a contoured waistband so I drafted one. It pulls away from the body a little bit above the pleats, another thing that bothers me. I thought this was because I was an IDIOT and cut out my single layer lining the same orientation (right side of fabric up) as my single layer fashion fabric when, in fact, they should be cut out opposite. I didn't want to re-cut so I just put the lining in backwards or sideways or mirror image or however you would describe it. That's slapdash for ya. But it bothered me so much that I actually went in, opened out the lining, and added a gusset there. No effect. So perhaps a straight waistband would be best for this after all.

As you can see, I reversed the pattern in cutting to change the pleats from the left to the right side. I prefer to have details on my right side, probably because I am right-handed. I just put the pattern piece on the fabric upside down.

Although in theory I love the higher waisted skirts that are coming in style, I think it will take a while to get used to them. They seem perfect for my body type--emphasizing a small, high waist; shortening my relatively long torso and lengthening my relatively short legs--but I felt kind of thick around the middle in this. Cidell's comment on seeing the photos (without me telling her how I felt) was that the waistline is very flattering, so maybe it's just a comfort thing. Low-rise was the thing for so long and it has been a decade and a half since I tucked anything in; maybe I just need an adjustment period.

All photos are here and the review is here.

Finally! Knip Mode Gather Front Top

Among the Knip Mode issues Cidell loaned me was April 2008, home of the twist top that Melissa has been making. So exciting! I've wanted that pattern since the first version Melissa did, and she keeps making more. After a frustrating skirt experience over the weekend I needed a slam dunk to clear my palate and decided it was time to pull this out.

Knip Mode was an experience for me. Patrones is no problem because I speak enough Spanish that I can read the directions nearly as quickly and completely as I read English. I also speak French, and German and English are related enough to get the gist of German. But Dutch shares very little with English and I can't get a word out of it (except luckily the color words are close enough that you know which pieces to trace out!); even the names of the pattern pieces are a mystery. I relied heavily on the explanation Melissa gave for putting it together, particularly the magazine photo on which she had drawn lines to show how the pattern pieces fit together. She is right, the line drawing for this was the pits!

I traced and sewed it in under three hours and indeed got my slam dunk. This was despite challenging fabric--it's a mesh knit underlined with a black cotton/rayon (?) knit. I bought the mesh knit a couple years ago knowing it would be awful to work with, but I really loved the print. It's impossible to keep it flat and on grain (this was my second project with it) but luckily it's lightweight enough that these issues don't show up as distortions. Unfortunately, the photos do not show the details at all because my fabric is both dark and in a busy print, so you'll mostly just have to trust me on how great this pattern is. But you can see that the shape is interesting and flattering, but still a very relaxed fit to accommodate that extra layer of insulation the body wants to accumulate during the winter.

I'll definitely be making more of these, probably at least one of them a dress as Melissa did. All the photos are here, and the review is here. My goal was to get to 100 pattern reviews this year. I have a backlog of at least 8 garments to review and I'm only four away from 100, it's just a matter of finding time!