Thursday, March 25, 2010

Burda 02-2008-119 Tie Neck Blouse (and Bonus Skirt)

Burda 02-2008-119 Thumbnail

The project I really need to be working on right now is Simplicity 2497 to wear to a friend's wedding in two weeks. But I really enjoy Pattern Review's Stash Contest every year and have been procrastinating sewing the Simplicity dress out of new fabric to perform the traditional stash sew down. I bought this fabric at G Street in July for the purpose of muslining this blouse, Burda 02-2008-119 and actually followed through on the plan. I underlined the body of the blouse with an Ikea Knoppa sheet and used French seams for the shoulder and side seams.

Waistband Attachment Topstitch Turned Under Edges on Right Side
To get a neat edge on the collar, Burda tells you to hand-stitch the inside collar in place. Yeah right! I followed a tip on a recent tutorial for making a nice collar (and for the life of me I can't remember who it was--if it is your tip please claim it!), which was to sew the collar in place on the inside first, and then topstitch the outside of the collar in place on the right side, rather than the other way around. So simple and so smart! These photos are of the waistband, which I did the same way.



Finish Armscye with Bias Tape Finished Bias Binding at Armscye

I used the same principle on the armscyes. Rather than use a bias binding turned in and topstitched, I wrapped the armscye edge in bias tape so that it shows on the outside. I cut bias strips, folded in half the long way and pressed the crease in place. Then I lined up the raw edges of the bias strips with the edge of the armscye on the wrong side, stitched in place, serged edges, and then folded the bias strip over that seam allowance and topstitched in place. The detail is a little lost in my busy print but I like it as a nice touch.




Original Neckline Too High When I first put this together I was not loving it. The neckline was way too high, almost turtleneck-y. I am not a fan of turtlenecks. And although I don't have an absurdly short neck, it is proportional to my body so it's not long either, and I felt like this was making me look like I had no neck. When the Selfish Seamstress made this recently she pointed out that the collar is kind of a cowl neck, which made me think that I could lower that high neck a little and still have a nice drapey collar effect. So I ripped everything off (remember that stitching/serging/topstitching? yeah.) and lowered the front neck two inches. I think I could have cut off even more. Although it is hard to tell with a naked eye that it is different, I feel much more comfortable with the final neckline than the original.

This is a pretty easy pattern--three pieces, no sleeves, no closure or fitting. The collar/tie is a bit of a fabric hog because it's cut on the bias, but that's not a big complaint. Although I enjoy the ease of the loose fitting pullover blouse with no closure, the silhouette is not a comfortable one for me (see also Burda 08-2009-118). It may be one of those things that I end up getting used to after a few years, like 3/4 length sleeves, but for now I like the blouse a lot, but don't love it enough to fill my closet with it.

Metro Textiles 6-09On-A-Wing Blouse - Anthropologie.com-2This blouse was meant to be a muslin for the $10/yd yellow silk I bought from Kashi last June (second from left). It has a little more body than a chiffon, but is sheer with a beautiful drape like chiffon. So I don't think I'll make it into this pattern but then what???? I am slightly obsessed with Anthropologie's "On a Wing" blouse (no longer available), with the twisted poofs of airy fabric at the shoulder, but I have not the slightest idea how it was possibly made and don't want to undertake the challenge. So what do I do with this gorgeous fabric, other than let it sit in stash? ]

**edit**
Several people asked about the white skirt worn with this blouse. It is Burda 03-2009-104; I made it last year in white and blue (left off the pockets on the blue) and love it, although the white is hard to wear because, well, it's white and it always comes home with some kind of schmutz on it.

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Two Piece Dress Dirndl Back I wanted to finish off this fabric (another yard in the stash contest!) so I made a quick and easy dirndl skirt. The blouse and skirt can even be worn together as a two piece dress. I've always thought "icky" in the past about two-piece dresses, as the term calls to mind hideous knit separates in the same print. But with a wide belt concealing the waistline, I think this makes a fun dress. It can also be worn separately, of course.

This project illustrates why skirts are so dangerous! This took around two and a half hours. So quick and easy! So flirty and flowy! However, I must stop making print skirts. For the 7 or 8 years in which I didn't have time or energy to sew (law school, clerking, big firm) I made skirts almost exclusively, and my uniform was a solid colored knit top and a bright printed A line or dirndl skirt. It is a cute look, but it is literally all I wore for nearly a decade and I am really, really, REALLY over it. It's hard to wear anything but a solid tee with a print skirt. What I really need are solid colored straight or pencil skirts to go with my print tops. Solids are my goal in New York. Although it may kill me.

Skirt FinishI cut as many blocks of fabric as I could that were the proper length and seamed them together with French seams except one. I slapped a zipper into the open seam, then gathered the top edge. I cut a rectangle of lining and pleated it in place (didn't gather to reduce bulk), then I sewed the waistband on as for the collar of the blouse (sew to inside of skirt first, turn over outside and topstitch in place). I interfaced the waistband with a lightweight interfacing, but I think I should have used a heavier weight. I didn't want to hazard a button hole into this lightweight polyester chiffon-ish, so I closed the waistband tab with a large snap. I did a serger rolled hem on the bottom and love it!

Side note: I got my serger from eBay in 2008, a White Speedylock. It is a serviceable but not great machine. I always have trouble with loops along the right needle stitch line on the underside, resulting in an unintentional flatlock on serger-constructed garments, and haven't been able to adjust the tension to fix it. While I was still getting the hang of it I serged over 3 pins, so the knives don't always cut cleanly. The shortest stitch length is not quite short enough to get a solid bead on a serger rolled hem. Ideally it should go in for service and have the knives replaced. But I'm thinking for only double that price I could buy a Brother 1034D for around $200 from Amazon. Probably not this month because I just bought my plane ticket to Montreal which is criminally expensive from DC, but soon. Maybe. People seem really happy with the Brother.

And if you don't mind, can you take a look at my back in the back view? I think my fitting issue is that band of muscle that runs along the paralell line between my armpits. I don't think it's usual to be as wide below the shoulders as in the shoulders, and I think that what may be causing problems with back tightness. Am I on base here?

OK, well I am really chatty today. If you have read this entire post I salute you. All photos are here, the blouse review is here, and the skirt review is here.

30 comments:

Aquarijenn said...

Another cute top! Your reviews are the best. Did you make the white skirt, too? If so, what pattern did you use?

amber said...

I love this top on you! Looks really fabulous paired with the white skirt and black heels. Well done. :)

Sophie Miriam said...

I have the Brother 1034D. I got it for free from a neighbor. I like it for serging. I haven't figured out how the blind hem is supposed to work, but I have a feeling that the problem is user error and not the machine's fault.

HeathersSphere said...

Very pretty top in an enticing fabric! You have been adding more stunning stuff to your enviable wardrobe! Cool!

beangirl said...

Hmm... just left a comment re: Broad Back, but it disappeared? (If I suddenly have two comments, you know why). Anyway, yes, Broad Back adjustment.

And very cute top!

Digs said...

Love your version! You've got quite the lovely mix'n match wardrobe there now - each top goes with each bottom. I've been wearing 2-piece "dresses" all my life, btw - but always from woven fabrics. Maybe that's the key to them looking good?

Bler said...

I think this is the cutest outfit I've seen you make so far!

Keep up the good work. I love the print top with the white skirt! So cute!

KID, MD said...

Adorable! The neckline change was totally worth it. The original looked crowded. It's perfect now! For fitting, I always do whatever beangirl says, so if she says broad back adjustment, I agree!

NGLaLALa said...

Cute! I'm not a big 2 piece "dress" fan either due to the same reasons, but yours looks great with the belt. I love the white skirt, too!

I have the Brother 1034D serger and I love it. I've only had it less than a year and so far so good.

Kate said...

Hi - as you take the time to share your sewing and pose so beautifully - really enjoy it! - I wanted to let you know that the top and white skirt is awesome - and the skirt at the bottom of the post with the black top is also flattering on you - I think it's the length - you look really lovely in both. BTW - i don't know how you do it - all that sewing and a demanding job. Well done!!

Victoria said...

Lovely blouse!!! Your fabric is amazing!!!!

Adelaide B said...

I also have the same skirt issue. I am trying to be good about making solid skirts, but I often just want to go crazy. (crazier.) I love the white skirt at the top of the post, btw.

Adriana B. said...

There is some crispiness and cool about the white skirt with the tie-neck blouse that i just LOVE!

Faye Lewis said...

Hey that's my blouse. Don't you just love it? I really like the print you used.

AllisonC said...

Cute outfits, I really like the black & white print - it is much more fun buying prints than solids isn't it?

Eugenia said...

Gorgeous top. I always love tops with a tie or a bow at the neck and this one is particularly delicious. The fabric is great for this style. Your amended neckline looks perfect and I think that the two piece dress works really well.

gwensews said...

Terrififc blouse. It can go it alone, or look fantastic under a suit jacket.

Vicki said...

I have been wanting to make this top and have been searching high and low in my Burda's - seems I have misplaced this particular edition. Yours looks gorgeous, and I love it with the skirt. BTW, in case you haven't notice (and can be bothered changing) the pattern number on your main photo says 2009 rather than 2008.

Kathi said...

Your two piece dress looks very cute! I can't imagine redoing all of that neckline like you did - you have lots of patience!

badmomgoodmom said...

I don't know where you read that tip, but I mentioned it at Pattern Review:
http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=46518

I learned it from a Margaret Islander video; I love her tips. It was on the shirt-making video and might have also been on the industrial techniques one, too. I asked Santa for the collection of all the Islander DVDs.

CyberGirly said...

Love love LOVE the top, so cute. Definitely going to make this. Love your blog too by the way!

Little Hunting Creek said...

I love that print! It looks so nice in both the top and the two piece dress. I think the yesllow silk really wants to be Simplicity 2594 instead (I'm making one in silk chiffon - just kill me now)

Isabelle said...

You look so fab and "springy"! Love both outfits. I really, really need to find some time to sew, or I'm going to go mad.

Pamela said...

The neckline modification made a big difference in the look of the finished garment - thanks for posting info like that - it underscores that patterns (and the instructions) should be considered a guideline, not a rigid map to constructed clothing. BTW, will be in Hong Kong this summer - do you have a suggestion for a nice hotel there? Thanks!

kbenco said...

The blouse looks lovely, and better with the neckline change.
What I really wanted to comment on was
"For the 7 or 8 years in which I didn't have time or energy to sew (law school, clerking, big firm) I made skirts almost exclusively" because I love it! Some people would think making skirts was sewing, but sewing fanatics (in the nicest possible way) know better)
I made lots of straight skirts in the same sort of life period - and it didn't feel like real sewing either. I am sort of bleah about straight skirts now, but I need some)

Rachel said...

I agree with above...totally love the print top and white skirt! Did you make that one as well? What pattern is it? Very fabulous outfit.

Sewfast said...

Hi Trena, or shoI say "Lycra"??? LOL!!! Just wanted to say thank you for the patterns...they arrived today and are fabulous! I think the voluminous one will translate well into a maternity sundress for my daughter and the rest are for me!!! :) Thanks sew much!!! p.s. Love that print!!!

Marjie said...

I love the top with the white skirt, and it makes a good outfit with the same pattern skirt and the wide white belt. My daughter is in law school now, and I made her about 10 A-line skirts in a variety of solids, so she can wear them with solid or patterned tops or with a jacket. So far, it's worked out well for her.

I have a White serger, and very much like it. I bought it new, for $600, and the first one I got never worked right. I took it back, they gave me a new one, and here I am, 10 years later, using the same machine quite happily. My biggest problem is I hate threading a serger! Hope you enjoy the new Brother when you get it.

senaSews said...

Cute top and skirt! I like all of these outfits. Perfect use of fabric!

angie.a said...

OMGosh! I just pulled out those very same BWOF issues for the top & the skirt! Great minds, LOL! You look fabulous :)