Friday, February 12, 2010

Burda 02-2009-123, Self Shawl Collar Wrap Blouse

Thank you all for the fitting suggestions on the Vogue 7876 blouse. I am glad I'm not the only one who suffers from this issue! And I received several helpful suggestions for altering such patterns to fit. I really appreciate the help.

I really don't know how to characterize my shoulders. They are narrower than average and yet muscular, I guess (in addition to sloping)? It just seems impossible to have both overly wide shoulders *and* tight shoulders in the same pattern. But it clearly is not, and I am not the only person experiencing this mysterious phenomenon.

And Terri A asks where I buy all my glasses online. I loooove having a wardrobe of glasses and it has become one of my signatures to coordinate with my outfit. I have tried several online places but the best, in my opinion, is zennioptical.com. They have a great selection at insane prices--as low as $8.00 for the frame, lenses included unless you need ultralights, $4.95 for anti-glare, $4.95 for shipping (last I checked)--and they always get my prescription perfect. The only downside of ordering online is that you don't go in for a fitting and get the arms bent to sit perfectly on your ears. I am sure I could try a local optical shop for that, but so far (knock on wood) none of my glasses have been uncomfortable. How cute are these purple plaids for $8???? Standard disclaimer: I have no connection with Zenni except as a satisfied customer.

There is a *ton* of info on ordering glasses online at Glassy Eyes, including website reviews and discount codes, but here are some basics: You can figure out what size will suit your face by measuring your current glasses; all the sites give measurements for their glasses. To order online you'll need to know your prescription and your pupillary distance (PD), which you can ask to have measured at the optical shop or do it yourself or ask a friend to hold up a ruler and measure between your pupils. I've had friends do it themselves successfully, though luckily I got measured at the optical shop.

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Burda 02-2009-123 Thumbnail

When we were at Jomar in Philadelphia in October I got two silks for $6/yd to make Fall/Winter tops. This navy stretch charmeuse is the fabric I had planned to use for Vogue 7876, but we saw how that turned out so I sought solace in Burda. I have been liking Burda 11-2007-104 since it came out, which is a couple of years now, but it wasn't the look I envisioned for this drapey silk (and there's no way I would have had enough fabric). Then I ran across the line drawing for 02-2009-123 and was like, "Why haven't I made this before?"

Looking back into the magazine (I have taken photos of all the line drawing pages and have them on my computer to reduce wear and tear of leafing through every issue when I am looking for a pattern) I found the editorial spread and realized why. Burda has this as an airy overblouse and I am not an overblouse kind of gal. Although I admire the look on other people and you'd think if anyone could find a way to wear (by which I mean show off) more clothes at once it would be me, I don't know how to layer and I don't particularly want to layer and I sure as hell don't want to have to make two pieces in order to get dressed in only one outfit!

However, the reviews on Pattern Review show a regular wrap blouse, not an overblouse. In fact, most reviewers said they weren't sure how Burda managed to make this look like an overblouse in the photo spread. Huh. I really had my heart set on a wrap blouse with a shawl collar for this silk, so I figured I'd just take the plunge. The pattern comes in 36-44, so I scaled it to a 34 at the shoulders and bust. I normally make a small bust adjustment in a wrap by shortening the diagonal line between waist and shoulder, but I wasn't sure how it would affect the collar so I really went out on a limb and cut it as is.

Burda, how I love thee. This is a simply fabulous pattern and incredibly easy.

The collar is cut on so the wrong side of the fabric will show, but that is what makes it so easy. It's also meant to be finished with a close zigzag. I used just the right needle on my serger and it looks good; in the closeup pictures you can tell that the thread isn't a perfect match for the fabric but that disappears at further than 6 inches or so. Normally I would have given the rolled hem foot a shot, but working in lightweight stretch silk on a curve would have been futile so I saved myself the heartache. I also finished the hem using the serger; it is not perfectly straight in the back but seeing the photo in which it is impossible to tell I won't stress.

Tie Opening in French Seams

Because I was sewing with silk, I finished the insides with French seams. Since the tie end has to go through an opening in the right side seam, I used the close single needle serger stitch to finish the opening edges and left the opening unsewn in both passes of the French seam. It worked well and I think it looks nice on the inside.





Back Neckline Bias Finish Burda wants you to finish the back neckline with bias tape, then stitch to the front at shoulders, leaving the collar to extend. Then you are to fold the collar over to sandwich this seam and hand stitch the collar in place to create a clean finish on the inside (I think that's what they were saying). Because I was doing French seams that wouldn't work. I finished the back neckline with bias tape before assembly as instructed; I topstitched the bias tape to keep it in place. I folded the collar against the front at the foldline and put in the French shoulder seams, catching in the collar. Then I rolled the finished shoulder seams over the back neckline (with its bias tape) and tacked them in place. Not the most elegant solution, but it works.

Side Although I didn't do an SBA on this pattern, the bust looks good and the crossover doesn't gape. Such luck!

The sleeves are meant to be elasticized with a bias-finished slit and little faux ties. I didn't have enough fabric to cut the sleeves full length, nor make enough bias tape to finish a slit. I might have been able to make little faux ties, but I had to piece one of the waist ties. For now I like them that 7/8 length; I just finished with a single needle serger stitch as for the collar and hem edges. I think the sleeve would need a little more width to look right with the elastic edge.

Really, everyone must immediately make this pattern if you have this issue. Just make sure the wrong side of your fabric is acceptable and go. I am already trying to decide what fabric to make it in for Spring with flutter sleeves.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

33 comments:

KID, MD said...

Really beautiful!! Doesn't it just restore your faith in mankind (or at least patternmaker-kind) when something works out so well? It's perfect on you! And yet another reason I NEED this issue!

chelle said...

That looks fabulous. As another SBA girl, I appreciate what it does for the figure!

Kathi said...

I really like that. It looks COMPLETELY different than the picture in Burda. I would not think of making that shirt they show in Burda, but I think the one you made is very pretty! I like your sleeves much better than the ones they have - I think they suit the style of the blouse better.
Cute glasses! I had also wondered where you got them.

Lisette M said...

Love it! I'm looking for my issue right now. I also love your boots, do you mind sharing the source?

meli88a said...

So sleek and pretty! I made this last year and your version makes me want to make another one...

beangirl said...

A) that top looks great on you!

B) thanks for the info on the glasses, this has literally opened up a whole new world for me. I'm sort of blown away at how I lived so long with only two pairs of glasses at any given time (that's all my insurance will pay for). Blown AWAY, I tell you!

Rose said...

Great job! I love how the fabric forms lovely folds/pleats.

Rose in SV

Claudine said...

Great blouse!

paco peralta said...

Hi Trena .- thanks for your step by my blog and your kind comments. I hope the improved weather conditions in your city. I watch the news, and it is impressive that a lot of snow ... You know, this is not our custom, and a little cold is to die. A hug for you, with a little sunshine from Barcelona

Paco

Venus de Hilo said...

Lovely blouse, your sleeves are much nicer than the original, IMO.

Ordered my first pair of glasses from ZenniOptical a couple of months ago, and I'm thrilled with them. I picked from their high-end frames ($24!) and need the super-thin lenses, but even so, at $70 incl. shipping, that's about a third of what I'd pay at an optical shop.

Eugenia said...

Wonderful blouse - it drapes so beautifully in that fabric. The style and colour really suit you and I love your adapted sleeves. I'm having a real Burda loving thing at the moment too!

Rachel said...

I really LOVE that blouse. It is so elegant!!!

Little Hunting Creek said...

That's really pretty! I never would have made this based on Burda's picture, since I too am not an overblouse kinda gal

Birgitte said...

Gorgeous, fabulous! I must keep this one in mind for DD :))

Terri_A said...

You look great and thanks so much for the glasses info! Wow! You definitely have a gorgeous spectrum of colors in your wardrobe.

Faye Lewis said...

That turned out very nice. I can see all kinds of possibilities for that top.

badmomgoodmom said...

Looks great! I will have to make one for spring.

Vicki said...

That worked out lovely. I had forgotten about that pattern.

Lisette M said...

Thanks Trena! I thought they were Dansko's, and they were on my favorites at Zappo's (at a much higher price!)

Kristine said...

Love the blouse! Thanks for reminding me of its existence, I loved it when I first saw it, and then it was forgotten... not any more! Nice job!

urkye said...

I sewed this blouse last year and I really love it:) It's very comfortable;) You can see my version here: http://szycie.blox.pl/2009/10/Kopertowo-w-rozkwicie.html

I wear it often with a basque underneath and it looks excellent:)

Adelaide B said...

I really like this blouse. Should you choose to wear pants, and I know that may not happen, it would look really good with a nice pair of jeans. (In my mind, I am picturing you on a cruise ship with white trousers. Which I have realistically changed to a white skirt.) Really, it is very nice.

Sew4Fun said...

Beautiful top! Thanks for the tip about the wrong side of the fabric. This pattern was once on my to-do list but quickly fell off. I must re-visit it.

Sue said...

I liked that top when I first saw it in the magazine, but was with you in the layering thing. Your top is great and I will definitley dig this pattern out and look over it once again!

gwensews said...

That's a terrific blouse. It's a good style on you. Very nice.

sewing elle said...

I love your blouse and that pattern too. I've been toying with the idea of making it in a bright red soft boiled wool as a winter cardigan. I know thats a long way from silk or chiffon but.. perhaps it might work. What do you think??

Jill B said...

You know, I'd wondered about your glasses before, but never thought to ask! Thanks for the info - it has revolutionized the way I see (argh) things.

Katharine in Brussels said...

Happy Year of the Tiger! This slinky little number is a winner on you. It looks great in charmeuse, I had only envisioned it in the airy stuff Bruda showed. I'm mentally constructing it because a) I have no suitable fabric and b) breastfeeding a newborn is a full-time job with overtime!

Isabelle said...

So pretty and classy! This is elegant yet fun. It looks way better than Burda's own model.

eword10 said...

This top looks so professional yet so sexy on you. Great job! I like your iteration better than Burda's by a long ski jump! (I'm watching the Olympics all week)

AllisonC said...

I love your version of this. I might give this one a try but I probably will need to do some kind of alteration to stop it gaping or cheat and wear it as an overblouse a la Burda.

Cennetta said...

Super cute blouse. Yours is better than the Burda version.

karen said...

I think you look wonderful in this. I love the drapes and the understated fashion. I may have to have a go at this.