Friday, March 12, 2010

Hot Patterns Classix Nouveau Three Graces Rick Owen Knockoff

HP Three Graces Thumbnail

When the Hot Patterns Three Graces top came out I immediately loved it for the crossover view. I didn't realize until later that it was a knockoff the Rick Owens twist top we were talking about on the blogs last year and that's why I liked it so much.

Rick Owens Twist Front Top Rick Owens Lilies Twisted front top - Polyvore



Before I finally bit the bullet on this one, I hadn't purchased a Hot Patterns before but when Fabric.com had a 20% off sale on everything I went ahead and got the pattern. I was excited that it had not only the Rick Owens top but two other fun drapey views, but having never sewn a Hot Patterns pattern before, I had no idea how to do the sizing.

This pattern has been spectactularly popular but not so many people have made this view. Argh! However, it does appear to run large based on the small sample on PatternReview. Froggiegirl is most similar to my shape and her top fit quite well. She said that she went down two sizes from the envelope measurements (so, for her from a 10 to a 6) and the fit looks good on her. My bust is a 6 and my underbust is between a 6 and an 8, so I figured I had better at least grade this to a 4 at the top, and cut an 8 at the front hip rather than 10. However, I cut the back hip at a 10, based on suggestions from my pleat front knit dress that I might need more room in the back to accommodate my rear view.

HP Three Graces Fit Issues Unfortunately, I think this pattern just is not designed to fit my body. I know that HP has drafted its own sloper, and I am guessing that it is designed with a very large cup size, perhaps a large C or even a D. Which I totally understand because Trudy is a large cup size, but I think those of us who are small of chest are kind of out of luck with this pattern line. You can see in the photo at left that once I finally (finally!) got this together there was SO MUCH fabric flapping around under the arm. In general it seems that when that happens it is because I am expected to have a bust large enough to push all that fabric toward the front. I took about four inches out from under each arm by re-stitching the sleeve and side seams as a quick and dirty fix, but the fit on this top just isn't great and I have NO idea how one would alter the crazy origami pattern to take out the extra fabric.

Speaking of the crazy origami pattern...OMG. Wow. This was SO HARD for me to put together. I spent two hours--literally, no exaggeration--with my dress form watching the YouTube video (instructions for this view start at 4:50) over and over. I watched it around a dozen times. I appreciate the video assist, but I found it very frustrating that Trudy used different numbering terminology for the seams in the video than those used in the instructions so I couldn't really match up what she was saying with the fabric in front of me. I do not have a 3D brain, as I've mentioned before, and this brought me to tears. I finally got it done, or so I thought, and sewed it all together, and then realized that somehow I had done it wrong and there was a twist that wouldn't come out. Luckily, the second round only took me half an hour.

Back Hot Patterns 3 Graces My favorite feature of this pattern is the back collar. It's nicely drafted and gives a nice finish to the back neck. But I am otherwise not wowed. Well, I'm wowed that they figured out how the Rick Owens top works (mostly, although I think the crossover is too high and wide) but these patterns just do not work for my body. I thought I might try the other views but I think at this point I will cut my losses and move on from this pattern. I am just too different from their sloper. It's too bad because the line has some cute styles, but at least now I know I'm not missing out!

I made this in January but have procrastinated in posting because I can't get my camera to focus properly on this red top. I don't know what it is, but all the pictures came out a little fuzzy (I desaturated the thumbnail photo to try to show more details). So I can report that I've only worn the top a few times. The baggy fit just isn't me. Too bad!

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

25 comments:

Lisette M said...

If you look at the Rick Owen top you can see that it is baggy around the chest/armholes area, so I think this is the look of this pattern. I think yours looks better with less bagginess but I can see how all that bagginess would drive me crazy too. Yours was a good effort with that pattern!

Karin said...

What a bummer that it didn't work out.

I also have a small bust (I am basically a classic pear.) I have sewn HP's Weekender Sunshine top and Riveria Cardigan with a lot of success. So if you see something else that really attracts you in their line, it might be worth one more go.

Still thinking of small busts. I am definitely interested in Colette patterns Parfait dress. I did read that it is drafted for a C cup with enough room to fit a D cup which scares me off a little since I am just a B.

Myra said...

I wonder if it will work better as a sleeveless or cap sleeve.

KID, MD said...

Too bad it didn't work out for you - that is a fun style. The color is pretty on you. Seriously though, you even look good in orange!

Little Hunting Creek said...

As a busty person I can report that for me there was just too much fabric in front for me too, and I couldn't figure out how to reduce it successfully and still keep the integrity of the design. But looking at his tops more closely, I see that this is a function of his design. That's just a whole lotta fabric there.
It is a pretty color on you, and looks nice too. I think we sewistas have very high expectations for our clothes projects that other people don't apply to their clothes

Adelaide B said...

I haven't liked how any of the shirts from this pattern have looked on anyone, except for you. I really like it. I know pictures can be deceiving, but I think the color looks really good on you (even if the fit makes you feel uncomfortable.) But, I am not a fan of wearing things you feel bad in, and I understand your frustration.

Nancy K said...

I am a DD cup and i had the same issue with too much fabric at the armscye as you did. I didn't finish mine, but tossed it in the garbage. I loved this top, but honestly, I loved the Rick Owens top better, than this.

Adriana B. said...

I have tried the original top in a local store when it went on a huge sale. Back then I was a medium C cup and still did not like the way it hung. I am not sure it is a matter of a cup-size only, though. For example, 1) the fabric has to be uber flowy and thin, and 2) I feel that the sleeveless version would hang better than the long sleeve one. On me, the drape was going to the sleeve and was just overpowering. Also, You are petite, and that may play a role as well. I felt it was a bit too much top for me. Having said that and having looked at your photos, I'd try a sleeveless version in a basic muted color.

San Antonio Sue said...

I made a similar pattern from Sandra Betzina Today's Fit. It didn't have the cross-folds, but had a fold in the front that made a sort of "chest cowl." Made it twice with fabrics of different stretch factors. Threw both away. I'm sticking to classics from now on. Yours looks great, especially with the belt.

Vicki said...

I think it looks really cute on you. However, if it was me, I would take those sleeves in so that they were tight9er) on your arms. It would then look more like the style than it just being baggy. Keep it tight from wrist to say at least mid bicep. Otherwise really nice. Love the styling too.

Sew4Fun said...

Oh well you tried. :) I know what you mean about HP being drafted for a different body type. I actually have a bust but I still have many issues. Being shorter than 5'8" the proportions are totally wrong for me. Then there are other things like the the shoulder slope, and so it goes on. Like you I'm just not built for these patterns. :(

RiAnge Creations. Ltd. said...

I love everything by Rick Owens! Your top doesn't look too bad, but I think you may want to reconsider the weight of the fabric. Owen's garments are tissue thin. So, don't discount this pattern just yet. Maybe try an onion skin. If your tossing the pattern, send it my way. LOL
Angela

AllisonC said...

This is one of the nicest versions I have seen of this top which may be down to all the effort you put into it. It does look good but I totally understand you wanting to not go through this again with another HP pattern.

sparkledonkey said...

Karin: Gertie posted a great tutorial on making an SBA to the Parfait pattern on her blog, and her versions are gorgeous.
http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2009/06/parfait-sba-hey-hey-hey.html

Anonymous said...

This Rick Owens top is better copied by La Mia Boutique. It is a bit different from the HP drawing, it has a cross over but only on one side, if you take a closer look. You can find more about this in Melissa's blog (Fehr Trade), from februari 2009.

HeathersSphere said...

Your top looks lovelier than the inspiration tops! I commend you for making this HP pattern work for you. I would have given up...

AuntieAllyn said...

I went through the same trauma when I made this top last year! I had my little laptop computer up and running right next to my sewing machine and dress form, and still found the instructions to be very complicated and vexing! I suppose I'm "average" busted, but I didn't especially like the way the finished result looked on me either. I did like it a little better when I tucked-down the top front cowly neckline portion . . . made the front look a little less messy.

Uta said...

Too bad you're not happy with it, though I think it looks a lot like the gray one in the picture you showed. I'm always a bit envious of the independent pattern companies you can buy patterns from in the U.S. (I could buy too, but for top dollar and/or postage!), but it seems Hot Patterns is one I can cross off my "covet"-list, since I'm small on top as well.

Pascale said...

I noticed that the pattern numbers sold by fabric.com had different style numbers to the ones on the hot patterns website.

I'm wondering if the fabric.com patterns are earlier versions of the pattern and there are some changes in the ones currently in print? If so, the more up-to-date versions might have improved instructions and/or drafting.

senaSews said...

I'm sorry that this top didn't worked for you. And thank you for your review. Since i'm also small busted i think i will stay away from that pattern. Sadly, because i really love that style.

Clio said...

I made one of the other views of this pattern and had similar results - and I am C cup, so I don't think it has to do just with bust size. I had to take it in about 2 inches at each armpit to make it fit, otherwise I was just swimming in fabric.

Katharine in Brussels said...

I understand. Good on you for sticking it through to the end. Next!

Michelle said...

It is too bad that the pattern didn't work for you...with the crossover, I don't think I would even know how to go about altering it! But I think you might be right about HP being drafted for a larger bust, I can even get away without FBAs on most of their patterns, when I would have to do an FBA on a comparable Big 4 pattern.

Anonymous said...

I'm sorry it didn't work out for you, I decided not to purchase this pattern when I saw the youtube video because it didn't look flattering, there is a ridiculous amount of fabric in the front and I'm not sure what woman wants excess fabric hanging from her bust...
Well onward and upward, I'm looking forward to what you make next...

eword10 said...

I haven't had much luck with Hot Patterns either. I think their sloper is just for a different woman altogether.