Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Burda 02-2009-123 Self Collar Wrap Blouse, Flutter Sleeve Variation

Burda 02-2009-123 Thumbnail

When I first made this lovely blouse, Burda 02-2009-123, I was thrilled to have discovered such a great pattern, pulled from the ashes of Burda's inexplicable styling in the editorial. I immediately pictured it for Spring in a floral silk with a flutter sleeve.

I already had the silk in stash, a georgette purchased 3-4 years ago online, intended to be the lining to my green coat before I knew enough to realize you can't use georgette as a lining. I'm sure I paid a pretty penny for it (although I have no idea how much) and therefore needed the "perfect" pattern before I could cut into it--anything over $6/yd is too go to use, you know.

Having finally found the perfect pattern I didn't want to make it wait too much longer. I went through back issues and found Burda 05-2009-123 with the perfect flutter sleeve. I compared the armscyes to make sure it would fit. The back armscye was identical; the front armscye was slightly different but I figured the gathering would take care of any irregularities and forged ahead. It totally worked.

Serger Rolled Hem French Seams I really didn't change anything other than the sleeve for this variation. For the serger rolled hem, I used the left needle rather than the right needle and I think it works a lot better on my serger to have that little bit of extra space. I am thrilled with the way the hem came out. I did French seams again, and used the same technique of serger-finishing the edges of the opening and then just leaving the opening unsewn on both passes. While working with this silk was like trying to stitch together cobwebs and moonbeams using the morning dew as needle and thread, its airiness and lightweight do make for a nice French seam at the armscye.

SideBack This version came out just as I imagined it and I'm so pleased to have made use of this gorgeous fabric! It has a right side and wrong side, and I was a little nervous about how the self-collar would look, as it is formed from the wrong side of the fabric. You can definitely tell that it's the wrong side, but I don't think it looks bad, more like a design feature. I don't know if the back hem really does have that dip in it, or if I just have it unevenly bloused. Given the difficulty I had in cutting this fabric on grain, I would not be too surprised if the issue is the hem rather than the way I'm wearing it. Oh well.

All photos of both projects are here and the pattern review is here.

I did the photos without flash per Peter's request (and others have urged it over time) but I am just not sold on it. They come out dark and too red and pixielated and no amount of editing seemed to get them to look right. I adjusted the brightness on my camera to be +1 (any more and my legs disappear in a flash of white) and changed the speed to 400 (I tried 200 but apparently I can't stay that still), so I really did give it the college try. I think I'm going to stick with a flash in the future. Sorry, Peter!

34 comments:

stitchywitch said...

Very cute - the colors look really nice on you! I think your photos look fine, but I know what you mean - if I take indoor photos I never like them without flash. That's why I stand outside and take photos of myself while my neighbors all stare at the crazy person!

KID, MD said...

Beautiful!! This is a perfect marriage of pattern and fabric. Nice.

Byrdie said...

Beautiful blouse! The shape is very flattering on you and I love the colors of your print. Perfect for Spring!

Lee Ann said...

I especially love the pastel blouse - so SPRING!

I have been reading your blog for a long while now - I especially admire how brave you are with color matching - so much black in NYC! I love brights as well...my boss calls my style 'Festive' lol

:) :)

blog :: shesewfly.typepad.com

AuntieAllyn said...

You look like a breath of Spring!! Absolutely lovely!

wendy said...

the floral is really cute!

if i can go all photo nerd for a moment- if you're using a popup flash, you might want to look at hacking up a quick DIY flash bounce like this:
http://www.diyphotography.net/the-party-bouncer-is-back-in-business

I've used it, it works very nicely for something that's essentially free.

If you want fancier, I use the gary fong puffer (you can google it or find it on amazon or a bunch of other sites) with my SLR's popup flash. I get pictures that don't have the generic flash washout & also aren't too grainy.

Angela said...

It's gorgeous! I like the backside showing for the collar. Great job!!

Pamela said...

Nice - thanks for Hong Kong hotel suggestions - I really appreciate your help.

A Sewn Wardrobe said...

The fabric is soooo perfect for spring.

Are these a backlog of projects to post or have you been extra busy lately? I hope the former, as you're making me feel very unproductive!

Adelaide B said...

This is the perfect Spring blouse. I'm jealous.

cidell said...

Slow shutter speed indoors is what makes the difference in coloring and lighting. It's what I use when I take your photos.

Uta said...

I really like the color of indoor photos without flash (and your haircolor comes out great!). The blouse is very pretty and romantic. The print reminds me of a Monet garden!

Mikhaela said...

Don't give up on flash-less photos, they make a HUGE difference and I think these look great.

This is fabulous and I love the flutter sleeves. I'm making a knit top as part of my mini-wardrobe and was going to go 3/4 or puff-sleeve but maybe I should try a flutter instead...

Clio said...

The flutter sleeves really make it spring-y. I really like the reverse side as a design element.

Eugenia said...

Gorgeous! This is so spring-like and lovely and made me smile. You have now got me desperately desiring some flutter sleeves.

~buzzybee~ said...

So pretty! And such an elegant design in both your fabrics!

Sue said...

Very pretty and romantic blouse!

Vicki said...

So pretty!

Becky said...

It's amazing how different the same shirt can look in a print and a solid....the print one is especially lovely!

AllisonC said...

Another great version of this top, this one reminds me of Burda's original but my memory may be fuzzy. Your photos always look great, indoor, outdoor, flash or not.

arnysews said...

That's a lovely top, and with the flutter sleeves even better than the original. Does the wrap stay closed or do you need to wear a cami underneath?

Little Hunting Creek said...

I love that blouse - so pretty and springlike! Hooray for warm weather!

Digs said...

You're a perfect little Easter Bunny... er, spring chicken? Seriously, both tops are wonderful, each in its own unique way, and each anchors a great overall look. Happy Easter!

~buzzybee~ said...

Back again!
I was just thinking - does your camera have flash exposure compensation? I have mine set on -1, so that the flash is only half strength and not as artificial looking. That might be worth experimenting with!

Shelley's Garden said...

Your blouse is lovely.

Terri_A said...

It is weird - I have bought 4 used Burda's now, and everytime I think something is cute, I look and you have made it! "Great minds..." right?

Alexandra said...

Beautiful blouse! The colors are gorgeous on you.

Andrea said...

I'm looking at your blouse, and I know that spring is here. It's lovely. I love the way it drapes on you. Beautiful job.

Lindsay T said...

I have yet to wear the silk blouse I made from this pattern. Your versions are so cute!

I bought a bolt of silk organza from Dharma Trading to save money.

Next time you're in NYC call me!

mochimo said...

Both versions are lovely!

June said...

If you can custom white balance on your camera, that will make a BIG difference in color for indoor and nighttime shots. Also, I use a different lens (aperture to 1.4f) to capture much more light. You do have to stand really still for a longer exposure, though.

I love the flutter sleeves! Spring, here you come!

gwensews said...

That's a great blouse. You look like a breath of spring in it, paired with purple skirt and sandals.

amber said...

That is such a pretty little blouse! Love it.

Btw, I don't think I ever said thanks for your review of Butterick 5209. Your tip on how to rig the lining was perfect and made for a very pretty pleated inside skirt. I referred back to your blog post several times while making my dress and the tips and tricks were very appreciated. :)

eword10 said...

I love this blouse so much. The floral fabric, the flutter sleeves, are just gorgeous on you. Beautiful work!