Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Burda 12-2008-121, Faux Shirtdress with 40s Flair

Burda 12-2008-121 Thumbnail

During the week of the Snowmageddon I decided that I should use the bonus sewing time to sew up some stash; with the stash contest going on I decided it was a good time to get some of that fabric that's been staring at me for so long off the shelves.

PR Weekend 2006 PurchasesI bought this stripe rayon/poly/lycra (I think that's what it is) at PR Weekend in NYC in 2006!!!! Seriously, that was a long time ago. Before I sewed the dress I had only used 3 of the 8 fabrics I bought that weekend. At least now I've sewn up half of it. I bought the fabric to make a wearable pants muslin. Three and a half years later I still haven't made any pants so I decided to release it from its theoretical servitude and make it into something I actually wear, a dress.

I looked through back issues of Burda to find a pattern that would make the most of the stripes and ran across 12-2008-121. It's designed for a plaid but I figured it would work just as well in a stripe. I only later realized this came from the same issue as the Tuxedo Jacket of Doom, so it's good to have a success from that issue.

Bias Binding on Facing



The pattern calls for a lining but I didn't think it was necessary as the fabric has enough weight to be worn alone. To give it a nicer finished look inside I used leftover fabric from the lining of my inauguration coat to make bias binding for the edges of the facing. I should do this treatment more often; I think it looks nice.









Perfectly Aligned Bias Stripes Imperfectly Aligned Bias Stripes
Seriously, how does this happen? I cut them both out with the same care and hand-basted *both* sides of the invisible zipper. The front is flawless and the back looks like I did it blindfolded. After fretting about it for a minute I decided that I really don't care that much and can live with it that way. The chevron effect is still there so whatevs. I am pretty proud of the front, though. However, it looked a little weird because with the faux placket the stripes meet perfectly...but off center. I think the (nonfunctional) buttons took care of that weirdness. In fact, I'm surprised nobody on PR had put on buttons before! To keep the little front flaps folded back I hand-tacked them down from the inside. The pin is merely decorative.

The cuffs are to be cut on the bias as well. I considered skipping them but in the end I'm glad I didn't. I cut them in two pieces so the stripes would chevron at both the inner seam and the outer edge.

Front Back The back has those dewlaps again. *sigh* I don't know why my back is so hard to fit! The swayback I understand and mostly have it covered now. But the narrow shoulders/wide back thing is a mysterious pain in my @ss and now this is the second time I've had this dewlap droopy back situation. I think I need to start cutting a size larger at the front hip, as you can see some pulling on the side, but the front otherwise looks good.

I don't wear a lot of dark colors but as I wrote several months ago I don't really have a funeral dress. I think that this is both kicky enough to feel like me but sober enough to wear to a funeral in a pinch. I was really pleased with the 40s vibe it has going on. I added some small shoulder pads because all the 40s patterns I've worked with call for them and it made the dress fit a little nicer.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

77 comments:

Sewfast said...

That is an amazing dress...I love it in that fabric...makes me want to dig out that issue and shop my stash for some stripey goodness! Great job!

Amanda S. said...

This is SUPER CUTE! I passed on this dress originally because I didn't like the faux front placket. But with some buttons it's totally chic! This dress is going on my must sew list. I think the stripes look fine on the back. Nobody but another seamstress would even notice that. And I agree with you, every girl needs a funeral dress.

senaSews said...

Totally love this dress! Love the Retro touch of it. Oh, and i love it with your shoes!

melissa said...

Cute cute cute! Don't worry about the back not matching up - I'm convinced that 98% of the population (those who don't sew) will never, ever notice this kind of thing that we obsess over.

porrothecat said...

Whoa, this is my favorite dress you have made! It looks perfect on you - color, fit, style, everything. Awesome.

Trudy Callan said...

You did an amazing job. I love it.

Sara said...

This looks fantastic! Great work.

Little Hunting Creek said...

I LOVE this dress! It looks amazing on you, too. Make another one in your favorite color, since you already know it looks great on you :)

Pamela said...

It's ADORABLE!!!

Claudine said...

Fantastic dress! I love the bias top.

Katharine in Brussels said...

Fantastic work, the chevrons... wow! I never thought from the line drawings this would look so good. Love the brooch and chevron-striped tights too.

badmomgoodmom said...

Awesome dress!

I couldn't tell the difference in the back at all.

meli88a said...

Awesome dress -- I love how the stripes worked out!

Karen said...

This is perfect--it's very flattering and beautifully put together. I agree with the poster who said you need to make another.

If you look at people wearing ready-to-wear you can see that the fitting issues you're having with the back are pretty common. But they aren't distracting from the overall wonderfulness of this dress. I think it's my favorite of everything you've made.

raven said...

geez this looks great! i'm terrified of working with stripes, but i love em! you did such a wonderful job! this is super cute! :)

xo
raven

Nancy K said...

I too am sure that 99% of people will never notice this, not just because they won't notice, but because they have no idea what it should look like! The latest Vogue patterns has a designer dress, don't remember whose, cut on the bias with stripes that do not match anywhere! At least yours matches in the center front and they are fairly subtle stripes.
I know that this is tamer than your usual look, but it is very flattering on you.

Uta said...

This is a great dress, I'd wear it in a minute! I like the stripe effect (and wouldn't care about the back; my theory is only other sewers notice that kind of stuff!), and I would swear I never saw that pattern, except that I own every issue of Burda and go through them again and again. So thanks for alerting me to a great pattern!

eword10 said...

Like other people have already stated, this is my Dave thing you have made. It is so chic on you and you look beautiful. LOVE IT!!!

Jenny said...

This dress is incredible. It looks so professional and like it cost multiple hundreds of dollars. Well done!

Clio said...

Very flattering and VERY 1940's. Seriously all that is missing is a pair of gloves, bakelite jewelry and victory rolls.

Lindsay T said...

Loving this on you, Trena! The belt, the hose and shoes...it all works. Well done!

Jessica H said...

So cute! I considered making this pattern but originally passed because I didn't like the fit on the model, but it looks lovely on you. Bravo on the stripes (despite your difficulties with the back - no one will notice from 4 feet away) and for such great accessorizing. Just amazing!

Reethi said...

Thank you, thank you! I've a stripe sitting in my stash, this dress is perfect. And your dress looks really great, and so does this color on you.

Karin said...

What a great dress. I think you look very elegant in it. And ofcourse you see everything that's not completely and perfectly as you planned. I guess that's the curse of being the seamstress, we all see all the little flaws in our own garments. But I am sure, just like everyone else said, that no one else will notice. You look great!

Me! said...

Coming out of lurkdom to let let you know how nice you look in this dress!
Tyna

Stef said...

Just had to chime in. This dress is fantastic and it looks awesome on you. If I were you I'd totally have to make a repeat in a bright striped fabric.

Byrdie said...

This looks AMAZING on you! I love what you did with the stripes. This style is very flattering on you- one of my new faves from you! Good job!

Alexandra said...

Gorgeous and inspiring. You look great in it!

Kate said...

Can't help but add my comment too - you look really lovely in that dress - it is amazing on you. With your gorgeous red hair it is just looks wonderful.

Carol said...

I like this very much. I, too, had ignored this dress and will now be placing it on my list. I actually have a nice piece of brown wool I didn't know what to do with and if I spark it up with a bit of faux leather or something it could be perfect. Thanks for the inspiration.

Sue said...

Fabulous dress - love the stripe matching on the front (you can't see the back so why worry about that!) The whole stripe-thing has worked really well with that pattern and the buttons are a great idea.

Salinda said...

I love those stripes!

Victoria said...

This is such a lovely dress and so flattering on you!!! Hope you plan to make more in the future!

Shannon said...

Now, that is a seriously cute dress!

Tamara said...

That dress is so cute and looks great on you! I love the stripes. I wish I had that magazine.

Christina said...

Super cute. Looks like a great basic dress pattern (if you can get your back fit issue worked out!).

Sew4Fun said...

Nice dress! As for the stripes not matching perfectly, whatever! :) You know I don't care about these things. :) It looks great from where I sit.

ChickyC said...

Great dress, love it!

Whitney said...

I love this dress. This is quite possibly my favorite thing I have seen you make since I started following your blog. Great work!

Whitney

Capitol Sew and Sew said...

Perfection!!! But you must be BLIND from matching all those chevrons!! I swear girl we need to get all the DC sewists together and have a catwalk from Dupont to Logan Circles!

okie2thfairy said...

I love this dress! Don't worry about the back- it still fits better than most RTW. Great getting your stash worked up.

Orchidophile said...

Awesome! Will you and Cidell post future podcasts? You guys were awesome!

Lisette M said...

I think you did a great job with the stripes, it is a great looking dress.

gwensews said...

That is way cute. WAY.

kbenco said...

That is so smart and sleek, I love it, especially your button addition. I too am going back to have another look at this pattern. Thanks!

Claire S. said...

Wow - beautiful !

tcarole said...

I love this dress on you. The print is the right size for your petite frame. And I love the way the chevron in the tights mirrors the bodice. Very slimming too.

Cindy said...

This is one of my favorites! I love what you did with the stripes. Great, great dress.

Digs said...

You're oozing major class here! Love the bias topside.

neighbourhood.gal said...

Fab! Really lovely. Conservative but not dreary.

countrygirlcouture said...

Super cute! This is probably my favorite of your projects. I'm sorry you are dissatisfied with the fit in the back, but I don't think anyone else is going to pay enough attention to notice. :-)

Lene said...

Hi Trina.

After lurking here on your blog for a couple of months, I think it's time for me to post my 5 cents :-) (sorry if I'm mixing metaphors.. )

I was wondering about the back-fitting problem. Does it have a back princess seam?

Because if you work from the assumption, that the folds point at the problem, that would indicate there being too much fabric on the side of the back bodice. A Slapdash fix could perhaps be to alter the armhole or make a round back alteration on the level of your shoulderblades.

I thing Palmer/Pletsch might have some insights on that subject.

Apart from the back issues - thats a fabulous dress on you!

Lene from Denmark

Adelaide B said...

This is a really, really nice dress. I have no patience with matching stripes or plaids. You are my hero.

livebird said...

Another one joining the chorus of 'this frock rocks!' This is actually one of my favourites of all the things you've made, even with the fitting issues - and bravo on the chevron cuffs!

mochimo said...

Beautiful, beautiful dress! Very elegant and it fits perfectly.

Marie-Christine said...

Oh, a funeral dress. Needing one ought to count as one of those really icky life milestones :-(. But it's perfect, still looks like the real you but definitely more subdued. Sigh. May you need it as little as possible.

ejvc said...

Great dress. I agree that you have too much fabric at the sides. Pin it out and then just true the front/back at the side seams.

ejvc said...

Great dress. I agree that you have too much fabric at the sides. Pin it out and then just true the front/back at the side seams.

Josie said...

Hi, just weighing in on the fit issue. I'm not great at fitting issues myself but perhaps taking a little length out of the back armhole by drawing a horizontal line across the back and then making a wedge from say 1.5cm at the armhole to nothing at the centre back. Of course then you'll have to alter the sleeve to match :(.

BTW it is a great dress!

NGLaLALa said...

Cute dress! I love the addition of the buttons!

Becky said...

This is my favorite of the dresses I've seen on your blog. LOVE IT. Must make one of my own.

BConky said...

I really like this dress on you. It's very flattering. I would not have looked at that pattern twice but now I feel like pulling it out. Cute.

cidell said...

This is honestly one of the best things I have seen you in. You look fabulous. It's super flattering on you and the details are outstanding. Love it. Seriously. Top 10 on you for me.

spottedroo said...

Super-duper cute. Great match of pattern and fabric, totally flattering. Hooray!

lsaspacey said...

This is excellent, I love it! I also wouldn't have looked at that pattern twice if you hadn't made it. Great job.

Teddylyn said...

Really cute--I agree I wouldn't have looked at the pattern and now I HAVE to make it! Very well done!

Lynda in LV

Anonymous said...

It's beautiful and fits you perfectly. Also look like a very expensive RTW dress- the buttons are a nice touch. I'm going to have to add this pattern to my sew list.
-Holly

TE said...

This may get lost in the sauce, but I'll try. Many DC area bloggers talk about G street fabrics all the time. So, I tried the Centreville location on a trip to DC last fall. (I live in the far reaches of SW VA - 5+ hours southwest) I was SO DISAPPOINTED. What location of G Street Fabrics do you frequent that you find such wonderful fabrics? I bought stuff just because I'd gone to so much trouble to find the place, not because it was great. When/if I get to DC again, should I take the subway to Rockville, MD? Please, I need specifics. Living west of the Blue RIdge is beautiful, but I need tactile fabric shopping sometimes.

Ruth said...

I am in awe of this fabulous dress! Soooo nice!

amber said...

You have made some gorgeous pieces, but I think this might well be my favorite!! The cut, the fit, the colors, the styling - they are all just fabulous!!

Anonymous said...

Super cute dress. The shoulder pads do great things for your figure!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

I'm really liking this one you! Love how you worked the stripes and seriously you have to be looking sooooo closely at the back to notice that it doesn't chevron at every stripe. I wouldn't have noticed at all if you hadn't pointed it out!

Kenins said...

The dress looks absoluately amazing on you. The stripes work so well on your figure.

Maree said...

Trena - I wanted to join the chorus and say this is my all time favourite of all the things you have made - the classic lines of this dress and the way you have it styled looks just great on you. Please wear it with confidence. Maree.

DanainDFW said...

Another vote for a favorite item for you! Looks great.

Trisha said...

I know I'm commenting late on this post, but I just found your blog through Pattern Review. Love the inside of the dress with the different binding! Don't you just love little secrets like that.

Rowan said...

I think the style is a brilliant one on you!