Burda 02-2009-123 Self Collar Wrap Blouse, Flutter Sleeve Variation

When I first made this lovely blouse, Burda 02-2009-123, I was thrilled to have discovered such a great pattern, pulled from the ashes of Burda's inexplicable styling in the editorial. I immediately pictured it for Spring in a floral silk with a flutter sleeve.

I already had the silk in stash, a georgette purchased 3-4 years ago online, intended to be the lining to my green coat before I knew enough to realize you can't use georgette as a lining. I'm sure I paid a pretty penny for it (although I have no idea how much) and therefore needed the "perfect" pattern before I could cut into it--anything over $6/yd is too go to use, you know.

Having finally found the perfect pattern I didn't want to make it wait too much longer. I went through back issues and found Burda 05-2009-123 with the perfect flutter sleeve. I compared the armscyes to make sure it would fit. The back armscye was identical; the front armscye was slightly different but I figured the gathering would take care of any irregularities and forged ahead. It totally worked.

I really didn't change anything other than the sleeve for this variation. For the serger rolled hem, I used the left needle rather than the right needle and I think it works a lot better on my serger to have that little bit of extra space. I am thrilled with the way the hem came out. I did French seams again, and used the same technique of serger-finishing the edges of the opening and then just leaving the opening unsewn on both passes. While working with this silk was like trying to stitch together cobwebs and moonbeams using the morning dew as needle and thread, its airiness and lightweight do make for a nice French seam at the armscye.

This version came out just as I imagined it and I'm so pleased to have made use of this gorgeous fabric! It has a right side and wrong side, and I was a little nervous about how the self-collar would look, as it is formed from the wrong side of the fabric. You can definitely tell that it's the wrong side, but I don't think it looks bad, more like a design feature. I don't know if the back hem really does have that dip in it, or if I just have it unevenly bloused. Given the difficulty I had in cutting this fabric on grain, I would not be too surprised if the issue is the hem rather than the way I'm wearing it. Oh well.

All photos of both projects are here and the pattern review is here.

I did the photos without flash per Peter's request (and others have urged it over time) but I am just not sold on it. They come out dark and too red and pixielated and no amount of editing seemed to get them to look right. I adjusted the brightness on my camera to be +1 (any more and my legs disappear in a flash of white) and changed the speed to 400 (I tried 200 but apparently I can't stay that still), so I really did give it the college try. I think I'm going to stick with a flash in the future. Sorry, Peter!