Monday, January 26, 2009

Inauguration Coat

I didn't really have a coat warm enough to wear to the Inauguration. Because of my flex day, the weekend, MLK Day, and Inauguration I had a five day weekend. Plenty of time to make a new warm coat!(<--sarcasm) I made this mostly over the course of four days and wore it on the fifth day (though it was not, strictly speaking, finished). Kids, don't try this at home.

Week before. Trace out pattern (including sizing down). Cut out. Modify back to allow for inverted pleat walking ease.

Day 1. Cut out and construct fleece interlining. Cut out fashion fabric and lining. Fuse front and front facing. Put darts into neckline of fashion fabric and facing. Make skirt for party.*

Day 2. Put inverted walking ease pleat into center back of fashion fabric and lining. Construct in-seam pockets with faux single welt (includes sewing front/side front seam). Fuse upper front (front and side front pieces), upper back (back and side back pieces), and upper sleeves (front and back sleeve pieces).

Day 3. Construct outer shell. Realize shape is bad and pockets are too low; conceive strategy to modify as can't fall asleep with an ugly coat looming. Groaningly acknowledge it will add two hours to construction. Rip waistband out of party skirt when realize should have put plaid going other direction.* Cut out new waistband.*

Day 4. Cut apart along waist seam. Cut 2.5 inches of length from skirt at waist. Take in side front and side back seams on now-bodice and add darts in front. Pin skirt to bodice and mark inverted pleats in skirt along side back seams and even with front darts. Put in inverted pleats; sew skirt and bodice together. Construct lining and facing. Put one zippered and one patch pocket into lining. Realize you want a hanging loop at CB neck between lining and facing. Unstitch. Put in hanging loop. Hand tack fleece interlining to constructed outer shell. Sew lining to fashion fabric along center front and collar. Turn and press. Pound with mallet. Hand-stitch a few inches in ditch between collar and collar facing. Make mental note to hand-sew entire ditch at later date. Mark buttonholes, put in, and sew on buttons. Add contrast sleeve extension. Bag sleeves. Topstitch sleeve edges to hold cuff fleece interlining in place. Add contrast hem extension. Lose steam. Baste hem. Badly.

Day 5. Wear coat with shameful basted hem. Be warm (except for toes) at Obama Inauguration. Come home happy and exhausted.

Days 6-8. Wear coat with shameful basted hem. Twice. Feel relieved when weather warms up on 3rd day and can wear other jacket. Unpick sleeve hem topstitching after realizing sleeves aren't hanging right. Interface folded sleeve line. Reposition fleece cuff interlining and topstitch four rows. Really hope I got it right this time. Change serger thread to navy in preparation for remedying shameful basted hem. Move all buttons down 1/4 inch so sides line up exactly. Realize basted hem was actually spot on. Press. Remove basting. Serge raw edges. Put in machine blind hem. Replace waistband in party skirt.* Done!

*This step optional.

There are a whoooooole lotta details coming in the next several days--you can sneak peek here (though I realize there's still a few more things I want to show). But for now, the finished product. It is delightfully warm.

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18 comments:

Lindsay T said...

Hah! Love your blow-by-blow and shameful basted hem. Very cute coat!

Brooke said...

It is sad how many shameful basted hems I have in my closet.....and have worn, laundered, and put back in the closet that way. Hmmm.

-E said...

I am blown away by how you altered this pattern! Brilliant! I never would have though of chopping it at the waist!

Erica B. said...

I think your coat looks great! I love the contrast on the sleeve and at the hem.

Cindy said...

You were a woman on a mission! I love making coats---so original compared to the basic black and tan coats found in the stores!

Sigrid said...

Beautiful, love the lining of it. And I've been thinking of sewing this one (some time), I'm very glad to see it made.

Little Hunting Creek said...

Love the coat, love the method. I have been guilty of same methods. No one notices except me (People obviously are 1.blind 2.very polite or 3.don't know the difference)

Myra said...

Love the purple and black.

Lisette M said...

Well you got a lot done in those few days. It looks great!

Shannon said...

Well, all the effort certainly paid off - your coat looks great!

BeeBee said...

At least you shamefully basted the hem. I'd've likely seam-a-steamed the thing. Do so love the lining, really eyecatching.

Dana said...

Great coat - love the purple! For the record I've shamfully basted my coat lining (and worn it...for a couple of years) with staples! When they came out I decided it was time for a new coat!

marysews said...

I love your coat, and I'm so glad you got to go the inauguration.

PS: I am giving you the Kreativ Blogger award because you are so creative! Get the graphic and details on my blog. I was nominated "out of the blue" by CatSpec, and I am passing it on!

senaSews said...

Your coat looks great. The color suits you perfectly.

Nancy said...

I love your posting! It's so fun, to make something for a special event, I do it over and over, clipping threads or yarns, as I walk out the door!
http://21centurydressmakers.blogspot.com

Kuka said...

GORGEOUS! I love both the colour and the cut, and it looks great on you!!! =)

Uta said...

Hi Trena,
this is my day for de-lurking, and since I shamelessly referred to your - by the way, very, very nice - coat on my - very, very new - blog, I thought I ought to tell you I really admire your fashion sense, and have learned quite a few things from your detailed reviews. Now if I'd only use it by sewing more myself... Happy sewing! Uta

melissa said...

omg, you were ON FIRE, woman! It took me like 9 months to make my coat!