Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Simplicity 2554, Princess Seam Flounce Tee

Simplicity 2554 Thumbnail

There have been lots of cute versions of Simplicity 2554, so I had to jump on the bandwagon. This outfit was my last minute sewing before PR Weekend Philly and the photos are by LindsayT! The top fabric is a lightweight rayon knit leftover from my Hot Patterns Three Graces shirt (fabric.com, $5.25/yd) and the skirt is leftover from New Look 6429 (FFC, $4.75/yd), so (1) this outfit was practically free, and (2) these two fabrics from kind-of-fail projects are redeemed.

Pattern Layout It was a tight fit to get the whole pattern onto my leftover fabric (there is another long skinny princess piece that I cut off a spur of the fabric, not shown here) and I had to ignore the grain lines for the ruffle and the neck binding. Since the ruffle is basically a circle, I didn't think it mattered exactly where it was on the bias and where on grain, and the final project bears me out on that.

As for the neck binding, it is supposed to be cut on the bias but it seems insane to cut a lightweight knit on the bias for binding. And in fact, at PR Weekend Montreal Jeanne of Jalie recommended cutting knit binding down the length of the grain as it is most stable, which is what I did here. Even so, the neck is definitely getting larger and larger every time I wear it. I should have stabilized the binding with a non-stretch interfacing (the neckline is large enough to pull over the head without stretching). I am going to have to retrofit it with clear elastic or something so the top doesn't end up falling to my waist when I put it on.

Basting Too Deep Although my construction on this was mostly slapdash, I did take the trouble to baste in the flounce; my fabric is *very* lightweight and somewhat difficult to control and it was definitely worth the extra step. However, I basted the flounces on at the 5/8" seam line, not thinking that the "seam line" at the neckline is the 3/8" binding rollover stitch. So I had to unpick all the neckline basting. Do yourself a favor and baste the flounce at 1/4" on the neckline edge!

So, I'm afraid I have to take my sewing machine in for service. I can't stand the thought of being without my machine! But for several months now the needle has been leaving large puncture holes in my fabric, no matter what size or type of needle and what type of fabric. I always make sure the needle is pushed all the way up before screwing it in. It seems like this is something I would recall if it had been happening from the beginning. I have a Bernina 1008 purchased about 6 years ago and serviced (*ahem*) never. Is this a service issue? Is it possible for the, um, thingy-shaft the holds the needle to slip downward over time, causing the needle to plunge too deeply into the fabric and need to be tightened up? It is not hitting the bobbin case or making a wonky stitch.

Wind is Rising... I totally love the ruffle look of this blouse, very on trend, but the downside is that the slightest puff of wind picks up the ruffles and leaves me in disarray. My other quibble is that I'm not sure I love the way the back of the ruffle is short and sewn into the side back princess seam instead of being the same length as the front or going all the way around the neck. But all in all I adore the top. It is flattering and comfortable and very ready-to-wear.

The skirt is just my basic self-drafted knit skirt, lined with some Vera Wang flesh-tone poly knit. Looking at these photos I thought it was time to make it a little larger, but in wearing the skirt recently I realized that I drafted the sloper with a really high waist but was wearing the skirt a little lower, which was creating those high hip wrinkles. So I think I need to lower the waistband and the hem of the skirt and it will fit and flatter.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

Simplicity Tops

I feel like Simplicity is really on a roll here--three patterns in a row of uncomplicated but not boring, current, trendy, well-drafted tops. I have not thought of Simplicity as the fashionable pattern line in the past, but I think it is stepping up its pace to keep up with the fashion cycle and giving us looks while everyone else is still wearing them. Go Simplicity!

41 comments:

Amanda S. said...

Darling top! I love the color and beautiful draping neckline. In fact, the whole outfit is super cute!

Trudy Callan said...

You look amazing! The whole outfit is gorgeous.

Trudy
www.sewingwithtrudy.blogspot.com

eword10 said...

I love this top. It is feminine without being Gorky which is a fine line easily crossed. It looks beautiful on you!

meli88a said...

Agreed on your latest tops -- very au courant. Too bad to hear about your sewing machine. I hate taking mine for servicing as well. It's lonely around the house when it's at the spa!

Shelley said...

Lovely top.

Sewfast said...

Darling outfit Trena! Sorry your baby has to go to the spa...I wish you were closer...I would loan you one of my many back ups. Scour Craigslist for a good older mechanical machine. They never let you down and keep the mojo flowing while the main machine is down!

Jenny said...

This outfit is so gorgeous! I love the red- it's a great color for you!

Elle C said...

Love the top, as a matter of fact every pattern you sew makes me want to make one too. Unfortunately my skills aren't equal to yours. Love your blog!

Eugenia said...

Another gorgeous top - definitely super-cute. I love the colour and, by the way, I rather like that the back ruffle doesn't go all the way round - I think it adds to the interest of this style. I love the way that you have paired it with the patterned skirt and added the belt - the whole outfit looks fabulous!

Little Hunting Creek said...

I love this top! Great style and great color on you

Joyce in NC said...

Very cute outfit.

BConky said...

Love that top.

Adelaide B said...

Cute. I have this pattern, but haven't really been inspired. I'll have to give it another look.

Alana said...

Love the top, that colours gorgeous on you. I've been eyeing up that pattern too - it's almost identical to a top I bought last year in chartreuse crepe chiffon for a ridiculous sum of money.

Nancy K said...

Great top. One of the things I liked about the back was how the ruffle is sewn into the seams. It's sophisticated. Very stylish and elegant on you.

Rebecca said...

I love your top! I tried to make the same one back in December with the most flimsy, stretchy knit on a sewing machine that I was not use to and it was a big fail. I think I will try it again by cutting the binding like you did.

Samina said...

Cute outfit! I like those colors on you, too. I also like that the ruffle doesn't extend all the way around the back. I expect that it'd look like you were about to fly off at any minute if it were there.

Tasia said...

Cute top, great colour! I need to take my machine in too, it's been serviced never in seven years and I hate to part with it too! I completely relate. Hope they fix it quick!

Uta said...

Great outfit! I love your hair with the red. (And great photos, thanks to Lindsay!)

Victoria said...

Super cute top!!! I've seen the line drawings and wasn't convinced it was cute until I saw your version. I like that you used lightweight rayon knit. It makes your top so nice and flowy:) BTW, loved the skirt!!!!

Anonymous said...

Re machine:
You'd think that if the needle was coming down too far it'd hit the bobbin case. If you manually turn the wheel, does it look like the needle goes down past the point where the shaft gets wider? The only other things I'd think might cause this are the thread tension being too tight (although you say the stitch quality is OK - try loosening the tension just to see if it makes a difference) or that the timing is off and the feed dogs are advancing the fabric before the needle is all the way out (something else you can check by hand-cranking the wheel). Good luck - no fun being without your machine.
QB

J said...

I really like the shape of the shoulders in the back. It reminds of the kind of epaulettes with a long fringe around them? http://www.vruchtvlees.com/nl/uploads/images/shop/women-accessories/epaulette.jpg Don't you dare call that look trendy - Napoleon wore it, so it obviously has some staying power.

Carol said...

Love, love, love this whole outfit and I am coming to steal it from your clothesline. I love the way the sleeves go round the back. I have a lovely piece of lightweight orange rayon that would be perfect for this pattern.

Faye Lewis said...

I know that the main focus is the top (I love it), but I also love the print of that skirt.

Lindsay T said...

I thought those photos looked familiar! People, I saw this top in person on Trena and it looks great! GO make one!

MushyWear said...

Great outfit and flattering colors! I actually like how the flounce is stitched into the princess seam on the back. I think it is a worthy design detail.

a. said...

Cute top! I love the shot of the pattern layout, too-- thanks for that, because I've been cooking up some ideas and trying to visualize the flat ruffles.

I have a 10 year old Bernina 1008. It's only needed service once because I seriously jacked up the bobbin casing, and I thought when I took it in I would be scolded about regular tune-ups. But, the service people said it's truly better to leave well enough alone, and also to never oil your machine. Good to know! I've not heard about the problem you're describing being a 1008 issue, nor have I experienced it, but I'm sure it's fixable and you'll be back in action speedy quick. 1008's 4-eva! Good luck!

Kyle said...

Gosh, I might need to make this shirt this weekend now!! I've had the pattern for a while and looked at it lovingly a lot last summer....

Kyle said...

p.s. I loved the windblown shot. Hee!

Gail said...

I simply have to make this teeshirt. It is the perfect coverup for my fat arms in summer.

judidarling said...

When you wear these warm colors, your skin just glows--such a pretty look. Do you find that lining a knit with a knit makes the skirt, or anything for that matter, too warm for summer weather? I wear cotton in summertime here in NJ because I can't stand the idea of putting on a slip! You're three for three on these tops. Thanks for the pics.

AllisonC said...

I love it, especially the back even though you are unsure about it. I don't often sew with simplicity patterns not least because their website cannot calculate international shipping - I mean, come on!

Cennetta said...

All three are great tops.

McVal said...

All of those are so cute! I need to do more sewing for myself! Maybe when the kids go back to school in a few weeks..

Angela said...

Oh my goodness.. I just love this outfit! Very cute! Cute top and skirt!

Anonymous said...

That neckline and sleeve is very flattering to the shape of your shoulders. Hope you do it up in a few other wonderful fabrics, too.

Cindy

loopylulu said...

I've never seen this pattern before and it looks great! I'm going to try and buy it next time Simplicity goes on sale.

Kathi said...

The entire outfit is very cute!
By the way, I have the same pair of Dansko shoes!

Ingrid said...

You look fantastic in this outfit, the colours look great on you! I have this top and made a different view but wasn't that thrilled, however I did want to try this view out. Glad to hear you did it in a knit.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Great top! The pic of your last 3 tops at the end of the post is wonderful...love all of them!

Karin van D. said...

Great top, the colour looks wonderful on you. And that skirt is lovely, cute print!