Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Patrones 284-24, Twenties Inspired Knit Dress

Patrones 284-24 Thumbnail

Patrones Haul from Spain While I was in Spain I managed to find three issues of Patrones. The first (the one this dress comes from, which was the most recent at the time) I picked up my first night at a regular ol' newsstand on Las Ramblas in Barcelona. This is the main tourist drag, not exactly a hotbed of sewing. Can you imagine being able to get Patrones at whatever newsstand you happen to pass? Crazy! The other two I found in the train station in Sevilla. Random back issues of Patrones, just sitting there. I bought two copies of each, one for me and one for Cidell. The woman working the newsstand was baffled, but I explained that I had una amiga who wanted them also.

Patrones 284-24One of the things that's great about Patrones is the photography is appealing and fashion-y (not catalog), but at the same time actually shows the clothes. What a novel idea. Alas, this dress came from a spread where the dresses were just laid out flat, so I couldn't tell what it would look like on a person. However, it looked cute, I loved the line drawing, and it seemed well suited to some fabric I'd gotten from G Street's $2.97/yd table back in October so I traced it out. Although I can translate Patrones instructions without too much trouble, there was nothing confusing about this so all I checked was the collar application (fold in half, right sides together, and stitch across short ends and to markings for tie ends; turn right side out, fold wrong sides together along unfinished edges and serge to the neckline).

Although I knew I was going to sew down the pleats in the Burda 06-2009-101 knit dress, I wasn't sure how I was going to handle the front bodice pleats here. Sewing them shut would defeat the purpose of the design, but I also didn't want any bagginess. I sewed them about 3/4 of an inch past the seam line at the top and bottom before putting the dress together. While I normally hate baggy, somehow I really like the look of these blousy pleats. They have a bit of a 1920s vibe. I always feel like the 20s are due for a revival, and there is usually something on the runway to evoke them. For Spring 2010 Proenza Schouler had an art deco vibe going in some of its pieces; here's another look from Balmain. Nobody really went full on 20s inspired (though I haven't looked at all the shows), but the ideas are there.

I was somewhat short on fabric based on what the pattern called for, so I did not use the skirt pattern. My fabric was 60 inches wide, so I just cut a rectangle and then eyeballed approximately even pleats all around. It was a little fussy and I probably could have just used the pattern and saved myself some trouble, but the skirt flows well and is fun to wear so whatever.

Sleeve CloseupThis pattern is called "Vestido Manga Larga," which means "Dress with Long Sleeves." I had to cut the sleeves on the cross grain due to my somewhat limited fabric, but I have not noticed any ill effects. Because I was cutting on the crossgrain I had plenty of room for length and cut them really long. I do the sleeve and lower hem last on a project, so I was fussing with the sleeves trying to get them to look right. I experimented with gathering them up or having them very long but it just wasn't looking great. Finally I pinned them up to 3/4 length and WOW what a difference it made. It reduced the target age for the style by at least 10 years. It had been kind of matronly looking, and suddenly it was young and fresh. It was startling how much a small alteration changed the entire look. To add a little interest to the sleeve I added an inverted pleat at the hem. This means it is snug below the elbow, and the blousing echoes that of the bodice.


Closeup of Neck Tie What I really loved about this pattern was the loose cowl-y collar and tie. Unfortunately, the tie really disappears in my dark fabric. I'm not sure a lighter fabric would be that much better because a knit bow is always going to be floppy. It took me several experiments to tie the tie right; the key, it turns out, is not making a knot first. I keep thinking I should tie it perfectly and then hand sew to keep it from ever coming untied, but I'm not sure it will work. The tie is rather heavy when tied in a bow, which distorts the shape of the neckline a little bit and pulls it open. If you look closely you can see that my clear bra strap is a little exposed.

Ta Da! I am happy with the way this dress turned out. The style is fun and a little different than I would usually wear. And I'm glad to have sewn from my Patrones!

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

29 comments:

melissa said...

So cute! And I'm always amazed at how little changes like sleeve length make to an overall look...

Now you're really making me wish I had this issue, too!

Kim Hood said...

This dress is on my 'to do' pile. The picture in the magazine is not all that wonderful but as you said the line drawing sells it. I like your 3/4 sleeves so I think I may use that with mine! thanks for the tip. Your dress looks really sweet. I wish I was able to sew at the rate you seem to be able to do - maybe I should adopt a more 'slapdash' attitude!

badmomgoodmom said...

Very cute dress. I like how you made it yours with the sleeve change.

Check out these two Spanish ladies in the on the street slide show at the LAT.
http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-street-fashion-century-city-pictures,0,1368699.photogallery
They are pix #12.

amber said...

So cute! I love how just a small change like the sleeve can transform the whole look of the dress.

Nancy (nanflan) said...

Cute dress! It looks great on you and the vintage vibe is fun.

Trudy Callan said...

What a great dress. Awesome job. Love the sleeve change.

Venus de Hilo said...

Very nice! You have a great eye for pairing up prints and patterns.

Adelaide B said...

This dress is super cute! It makes me happy just to look at it.

Lindsay T said...

Liking it! Give me a bow neckline any day.

sewducky said...

It's incredibly cute and flattering on you. I love the color, and you did a fantastic job on it.

Lisette M said...

This was one of my favorites from this issue, I love the way yours turned out.

Sigrid said...

How good of you to see the possibilities of this pattern. I didn't see it and thought it a boring dress. You certainly proved this is not the case, great dress and you show it very well.

spottedroo said...

Love that print!

AllisonC said...

Very cute dress and I love the fabric. I've got to make a dent in my Patrones back issues in 2010 instead of just looking at them!

gwensews said...

Terrific dress! Interesting how you solved your almost "too short" of fabric problem. Why, oh why, can't we pick up sewing/pattern magazines such as Patrons, Knit Mode and Burda at a BN here in the US?

Cindy said...

I love this dress! The bow and the skirt shape are great! And the shoes are perfect.

Faye Lewis said...

Yes, the dress is stunning. Love that shade of blue too.

Digs said...

I love strong geometric prints, and your dress is beaut. Was the pattern actually designed for knits? I ask because the pattern photo looks like it could be a woven.....

Vicki said...

Great dress. You get so much done! I wonder if the neckline and bow were interfaced they would sit more like the line drawings? Maybe not, the bow would still be heavy I think. Very cute shoes too!

golden star said...

You are working this dress. Absolutely fabulous!

Anonymous said...

Very cute and attractive on you. Also love the fabric.

Little Hunting Creek said...

Super cute - I know turquoise is your favorite color, but this color blue sure looks good with your hair and skin

NGLaLALa said...

Cute! Great job!

Maura said...

You have quite a knack for making cute dresses, but I think this one is especially flattering on you. I'm glad you had to make the skirt shorter; it is the perfect length.


Word verification: arkess - a shipbuilder's wife.

Cennetta said...

Your dress is so much better than than designer inspiration one. Great job and lookin' good as always!
C

Uta said...

I love the dress; it has a real vintage vibe, especially the fabric and the bow (I think 20s bows have to be floppy, with all that slinky silk that was used then). I just read in a German magazine about 20s theme parties being all the rage in Berlin- complete with dressing up in the fashions of the day. So you're right on trend (for Germany, anyway!). I adore 20s style, but a lot of it is really cut for the boyish, hipless figure, sigh.

paco peralta said...

Hi Trena.- precioso este vestido de PATRONES.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS CHRISTMAS AND MY WISHES FOR A NEW YEAR, HAPPY, HEALTHY AND FULL OF ALL THE BEST

MERRY CHRISTMAS Trena

ELMO said...

Love that dress, the fabric was a great pick for that pattern, and you look fabulous in it!

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