Friday, December 11, 2009

Butterick 5079, A Twist on the Twist with Twists

B5079 Thumbnail

Here is a random project from my backlog, Butterick 5079. Because what better time to review a summer dress than when I've had to pull out the wool knickers? Perhaps it will do our Australian/New Zealander friends some good!

I liked the design of this dress in concept, but I have to say, it's kind of a lackluster result.

Rather than the twist being at the neckline, the bodice is cut with an overlay and the twist is several inches below the neck using the overlay. It's an interesting and creative design (that looks fab on this 3.1 Phillip Lim top)...but in real life it just makes you look like you have saggy boobs. Or the saggy boob issue could be related to my flat chest--if your bust is large enough to be differentiated from the twist it might be flattering and interesting. But on me, where the bust and the twist can't really be distinguished, it looks like saggy boobs.

Front The pattern envelope photo (though not the line drawing) makes it appear as though there is some gathering on the skirt at center front, or at least plenty of fabric. And there is waistline ruching, which always works for me. But again, once made up, these things don't quite add up. Although the skirt is pleasantly full, it is cut as an A line rather than with any gathering at center front and there is no extra fabric there for tummy camouflage. And although there is ruching, it is fairly high up at an empire line, and also provides no tummy camouflage. So I feel like the ruching merely provides a frame for my belly, rather than disguising it.

Lining the BodiceMy fabric was somewhat sheer and needed to be lined. I did not follow the pattern instructions, which were needlessly complicated and involved (1) woven lining and (2) a zipper, both of which are nonsensical in a knit. I cut the bodice out of a knit lining, and then trimmed away 1/4 inch from the neckline and armscyes of the lining to ensure a good turn of cloth that would not show the lining from the outside. I stitched the shoulder seams of the lining and fashion fabrics. Then I sewed them together at the neckline and armscyes, turning right side out through the strap tunnels. The photo at right shows one half turned right side out, and the other right sides together to show the stitching at neckline and armscye. Then sew the side seams.

I really liked this print and was a little disappointed in the result, although at least I only paid $2.97/yd for the fabric. The dress is wearable, but I don't feel great in it so I only wore it a few times over summer and I don't know how many times it will get worn next summer before it gets the boot.

In general I have found the Maggy London/Suzi Chin line of patterns for Butterick to be excellent, so I think this is just a blip and I will certainly continue buying the line.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

19 comments:

melissa said...

*squeeeeeeal* matching glasses! I love it!

Trudy Callan said...

You look great! Fantastic color for you and such a fun pattern of swirls.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Trena, do you have glasses to match all of your outfits?! It was the first thing I noticed...I mean the dress is cute and all but you seriously have orange glasses...AWESOME!

KID, MD said...

That print is darn cute and orange is a fabulous color on you. I actually think the dress is quite nice, despite the boob issues.

Sigrid said...

Same thought here as Carolyn: I saw the orange glasses and wondered about the matching. Great summer dress.

Adelaide B said...

You should not wear a dress that doesn't make you feel cute. Life is too short, you are cute, you should always feel cute.

Lisette M said...

I think it is very cute on you! Thumbs up on the glasses! I love orange!

Lindsay T said...

Love the orange on you. Nice to see a sunny dress on a cold day.

Sew Shy said...

I don't see saggy boobs at all. Love the dress.

Faye Lewis said...

Love the dress and the color.

Vicki said...

Great fabric. Shame about the saggy boobs but cute none the less.

Cynth said...

I made this dress a while back and haven't yet worn it for the same boob issue. I thought it was just me - or a need for more padding :-)

AllisonC said...

I don't see any saggy boobs, just a great summer dress - maybe the print helps to hide the problems you see with the dress. Really good review though and I appreciate the warnings!

HeathersSphere said...

I adore this color and style on you! I do not see sagginess.

eword10 said...

I am in the camp of not seeing saggy boobs and loving the matching glasses. Great dress. Love the orange and the print.

gwensews said...

It looks terrific in the photo. I don't see any problems at al. Geez--matching glasses--how cool!

amber said...

I think the dress looks really cute on you.

Carol said...

Love the dress and love the fabric. You look very cute! Incidentally, it is so bloody hot here at the moment, it's uncomfortable to be dressed at all!

Jillian said...

I just finished up this dress and it totally didn't work out for me either! I agree with the saggy boobs/tummy framing assessment!