Thursday, April 30, 2009

BWOF 03-2009-102, Empire Waist Knit Dress

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This 03-2009-102 dress was yet another casualty of BWOF's nonsensical styling, so I didn't even give it a second glance in the glossy portion of the magazine. Seriously, what is that? Scarf, paint splatters, pretty hair, and oh yeah that appears to be some kind of dress. However, when I got to the line drawings I was intrigued.

When I get a new issue I am always itching to go straight to the line drawings so I can really find out what's in the magazine. The photo preview at the beginning generally doesn't do anything for me and the editorial content is nonsense. But, I am one of those delayed gratification people. So I patiently page through the magazine, reading the hilarious descriptions, trying to discern styling details. I don't go so far as to skip over the line drawings to finish the glossy portion, however. Once I get to the nitty gritty then I'm allowed to see what these things allegedly are. It's kind of fun.

This is the sewing course for March. I always think that will make it easier to trace the pattern because the pink shading stands out easily, but it's a little hard to see the size lines. At least I didn't have to size this one down, as it comes in a generous 10 sizes, 34-44. The instructions are clear and the illustrations useful, although this is certainly not so complicated that one couldn't do it without the course.

Fabrics:
-An ITY polyester knit from Fashion Fabrics Club, purchased in June 2008 for $4.75/yd. I haven't bought fabric online yet this year, but this print is tempting me back onto the internet. Interestingly, this was part of the first internet purchase of last year. I can't believe I held out until June! I thought I was doing so well to make it through April this year.

-The contrast midriff fabric was purchased from G Street Fabrics' $2.97/yd table in April 2008. This was leftover from BWOF 04-2008-128.

-The white knit used to line the bodice is too old to know where it's from. It's just a cheap-o poly, either from Joann or Hancock.


I made only a few changes:

Back-In tracing the back neckline I saw that it was nearly straight. I don't like a low scoop neck paired with a high back neck, I think it looks unbalanced. So I lowered the back neckline 1.5 inches.

-I did a swayback adjustment to the back skirt pattern as for 10-2008-115. This added a back seam, which breaks up the print, but I'd rather have broken print than swayback ick.

-Rather than use bias strips to finish the neckline, I lined the bodice as for the 02-2009-119 bubble sleeve dress. I sewed the shoulder seams of the bodice and lining, placed them right sides together and sewed the necklines together, trimmed, and turned. Then I trimmed the lower and armscye edges of the lining so turn of cloth would keep it under.

-Left out the zipper. Knit dresses do not need zippers. Really they don't.

-Contrast midriff instead of grosgrain belt. I like this, but I needed to tone down the pleat area a little bit so I put a butterfly pin that is about the same color as the midriff over the pleats, which you can see here, and it's perfect.

-I had to shorten the elastic for the sleeve quite a bit from the recommendation. I have fairly large biceps (based on past fitting experience), so I suspect this will be universal.

OK, added up that sounds like a lot of changes but it really wasn't!

I totally love this dress. One thing that's not evident in the line drawing or the picture is that the skirt lays sort of diagonally from the pleats on the right down to the hem on the left. You would think this would be annoying, but I think it creates a flattering line that skims over a tummy and keeps the eye moving past it.

I enjoy having my quirky Retro Fantasy style, but sometimes I just want to look like everyone else. This dress is perfect for that. It feels like me, but is completely on trend and blends in on a city street. I wore it on a date and it was quite a success. The guy not only noticed it but said, "You look good in a one-piece dress." I'm not sure there is any other kind of dress, but it was a sweet compliment.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

39 comments:

Myra said...

I like that one on you. Did you use just a regular cotton/poly knit to line again or something else?

Sewfast said...

You look very cute in your one piece dress!!! Men??? LOL!!!

Claudine said...

Fabulous! I was thinking about making that one, too.

eword10 said...

Bummer, for some reason I am blocked from seeing your butterfly pin! :( The dress is gorgeous on you though.

melissa said...

Hooray for knit dresses! I had to laugh at your zipper comment, I completely agree. Does Burda also own a zipper company or something? Why oh why do they keep pushing them in knits??

Little Hunting Creek said...

I never put zippers in knits - what is the deal with these pattern people? Vohue does that too. They must get a kick back from the zipper cartel. You do look good in a one piece dress :)

Jacqui said...

In the BWOF drawing, I assumed it was for wovens since it had a zipper. What's up with that? Something about it being a knit pattern makes it that much cuter! I just love your print!

Cennetta said...

Very cute and very flattering. Your fitting technique for the sway back is perfection. Great looking dress.

mochimo said...

Lovely dress! And I like the fabric too (there's a bit of envy here ;-) print knits are not to be found in my area - and buying from overseas costs too much :-( ). I started sewing just a few months ago but my to-do-list is already sooo long. And this dress is in the list. Your version makes me want to try to sew it even more.

laura said...

I love that print and I want that dress!! I quit subscribing to Burda last year as I just don't make enough clothes out of it to justify the cost. Hey, have you ever done a tutorial on sway back adjustments? If not, would you mind doing one? I've looked around and they're all different!!! But since yours works I'd love to know how you do it.

judy said...

I love the print and the colors look great on you. The dress is very cute! I like the blue contrast belt..it sets off the dress perfect!

Opal said...

Very pretty dress and I love those glasses...

Rachel said...

That is a gorgeous print. I always go to the line drawings on Burda. The pics do nothing for me.

Uta said...

Great dress. It has a happy vibe, and you look happy in it; is it the compliment or the print? (I think it's a bit Pucci-like, and nothing makes me happy like looking at a Pucci print. Must be the swirls. Visual LSD or something!) As for men, I think 98 % are just totally out of their depth when it comes to clothing. DH and I have an agreement; I won't ask - as in, what do you think? - and he won't tell!

Lisette M said...

I love it! I love how it looks on you and your accessories are perfect with it. Is the necklace one of yours?, it is gorgeous.

Beth Conky said...

Don't try to change your style to look like everyone else. How boring. You're adorable.

spottedroo said...

Looks awesome! And a great fit. I always look at the line drawings too (for patterns, don't get BWOF, er, yet.)

Adelaide B said...

This dress is super duper cute!

Marita said...

Trena, this is one of my fave's from that particular mag and it's so lovely on you, pretty pretty pretty:-)

Carol said...

This is a very cute dress! I agree about the Burda styling - you can never actually see what the garment looks like! I don't think it's just Burda, though. I was flipping through a Vogue magazine at work the other day and saw a ten page fashion spread with the model laying in a field of hay for every single picture. The garments were all bunched up and I had no idea what I was looking at. I guess that proves that they are selling an image and not the actual garment! As I've only just received December 2008 BWOF, I won't see this dress until the middle of our winter!

BeeBee said...

Ok, I need to get a little more slapdash myself. You get them done so quickly! I'm still plodding thru a blouse. I really like this, very cute and totally wild fabric. I noticed the directions for this show you how to do the witty waist band on the January skirt. Now you know....

Sew4Fun said...

Cute dress. This style is very flattering on you. I can see why your date not only noticed but complimented you.

Rose said...

Very charming dress--great colors (and I liek the turquoise band), and wonderful style!

I dunno, though: if you are going to fully line your dresses, neatly and professionally finishing them inside and out, you are not living up to your blog name, the SlapDash Sewist. We should all fail so miserably. ;)

Great job!

Rose in SV

kbenco said...

Adorable dress. I want to make this one too. Your contrast band sounds more comfortable than a petersham belt.

Elaray said...

If it weren't for BWOF's technical drawings we would never know what their clothes looked like. The dress is adorable!

sewducky said...

This is a fantastic color on you and I love the dress. Turned out beautiful.

Trudy Callan said...

Amazing as always!

www.sewingwithtrudy.blogspot.com

Kim Hood said...

Fabulous dress - wonderful fabric. I thought I was the only one who spent more time looking at the technical stuff rather than the photos! I canceled my subscription to Vogue after they showed pictures of black garments in a darkened room!?!
I also agree about zips in knit garments. it probably helps that I barely have a waist but less said....
Kim

Amy said...

Hi- really cute dress! I am sort of new to the Burda patterns. I saw one on a web site I really liked and have finally figured out it came from the BWOF magazine. Do you know where I can get a copy of the magazine or a copy of the pattern in it? It is from BWOF 07-2008 and is pattern number 108. Thnaks for any help you can offer.
Amy

Cole's Corner said...

I love that dress on you. The butterfly, the necklace, and the matching nail polish are the finishing touches. The dress may look like everyone else... but the accessories make it you- funky and fun. I love it!

Lindsay T said...

I think this is a great dress on you. Love your date's compliment. Smart to omit the zipper.

Cindy said...

Very cute--again. I love the pattern and fabric. I need to begin some knits. You have had a lot of success!
--In regards to your comment on my blog, yes-the fabric is 3d. The raw edge bias strips are sewn down. A very unique look!

have a good weekend!

Holly said...

Beautiful dress with great colors and looks great on you. I'm new to reading sewing blogs and I'm scared. Here's why:

1. I don't know how to order BWOF;

2. My sewing machine only sews straight and zigzag stiches;

3. I keep seeing some sort of grid thing you guys use when working with patterns and I don't have one of those.

Any advice you could give me would be great, especially if you could please tell me how to get the pattern for the dress you just made.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Love the print and the dress.
It looks great on you.

Sue said...

Fabo little dress! I will have to look at doing that one as I really need more knit dresses.

ClaireOKC said...

You know I love the tech drawings too....only I'm not into delayed gratification...instant gratification takes too long for me, so I immediately go to the line drawings in the middle...mostly because the pictures get me all excited with me thinking that it's one thing, and looking at the tech sketch and it's something totally different!

This is a darling dress on you and love the way it makes up.

HeathersSphere said...

Your stunning dress made me notice this pattern! Lovely merge of fabric and style!

Vicki said...

Another lovely dress. Pretty colours.

Cassie said...

I love the witty waistline.

Yes, the WoF descriptions crack me up too. Unfortunately I saw this photo spread and flipped straight to the line drawing to figure out what was going on. The real feature of the dress is the pleats connecting the bodice, over the waistband, onto the skirt and it's absolutely impossible to see from their magazine photo.

I never understood why they didn't include a line drawing right there in miniature scale next to the description. What I want to see is:

- Fabric used
- Line drawing
- Difficulty

I also like the delayed gratification method of perusing the magazine. Liftout/line drawing section last!