Thursday, March 19, 2009

Giambattista Valli Knockoff Tee

My conference is successfully concluded! All the speakers showed up, discussions were lively, the audience participated, and I feel that I got a lot of recognition for my hard work. I am still completely exhausted and counting the MINUTES until I leave for Miami on Monday, but I am pleased with how well everything turned out.

Now back to regularly scheduled blogging.

Thumbnail

A while back, Eli blogged over at The Princess Seam about projects she wanted to knock off, and this tee was one of them. Unfortunately, I couldn't find it anywhere (net-a-porter, Giambattista Valli's site, etc.) so I only have the one reference photo. I like how it retains the basic, simple cap sleeve t-shirt silhouette while still being interesting. I really like my t-shirt staples because they are easy to wear, but I get totally bored of just a plain tee. I like them to have a little twist, like my H&M knockoff (which I've now made twice).

I was immediately taken with the shirt and put it on my project list. When I switched over to Spring sewing, this was on deck first.

I started with my basic tried and true T shirt pattern. I redrafted it to have a cap sleeve and tiny bit of a mock turtle neck/standing collar, because from what I can tell of the t-shirt it has a tiny collar in the back. I made the first muslin and then marked up the draft:

Mark Up First Draft

Once I was happy with the fit of the basic shape, I marked the cutting line between the body of the front and the sleeve, and cut and spread the front to create space for gathers:

Split Front for Gather

You can see in the photo that I added some tissue onto the cut off front and sleeve to round the edges of the pieces. This turned out to create an unpleasant pooching (visible in muslin 3) and I flattened the pieces back out to their original dimensions.

Now came the real work. The issue was the ratio of the joining edge of the sleeve and the bodice. This took me forever to get right! All told, I made 8 muslins for this simple top.

Muslins

You can see that the final proportion of front bodice to sleeve/inset is pretty dramatic. The bodice is gathered to about 1/3 of its original size and the sleeve inset seam line is quite short, about 4 inches.

Final Front Pattern

I made this in an aqua lace from the G Street $2.97/yd table, so it had to be lined. I'm not sure if there would be a better way to finish the neck/collar edge anyway. I made the lining from the back and the front piece before splitting, put it on my still unnamed paper tape double and marked the front divot and the gathering on the front at the side seams.

PocketsIt came out really cute, although in my thick fabric the side seam gathers are kind of lost. Looking at the reference photo again, I see the joining seam between the bodice and the sleeve/inset actually goes down below the armscye and there is gathering along the neck edge opposite the inset side, so I might redraft it with those changes. I got some very lightweight jersey from G Street the last time I was there that I think will be more apt than the fairly heavy knit lace I used for this version. I still haven't quite decided what I'm taking to Miami next week (!!!!) but this is high on the list!

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

28 comments:

Me with Lou said...

Eight muslins! You have the patience of a saint. I would have (and usually do) give up after #1 and return to knitting. Your end result looks swell, though! Sparkly! Have fun in Miami!

Sewfast said...

Bravo...cute and interesting Tee...well worth your efforts!!!

Little Hunting Creek said...

That is super cute! muslins !!! Now you know why his original is $$$ I love this tshirt.

Beth Conky said...

Worth all the work. Looks great. Thanks for showing us all the muslins and your pattern work. It's fun to see.

Cennetta said...

I love this top and you did a fantastic job with copying the original.

Cindy said...

Are you sure that you aren't an engineer/architect? I am amazed at the pattern drafting! the shirt looks great!

Nancy K said...

Great copy. I am impressed with your perseverance, not to mention your drafting skills.
I just started a blog, my first post was this morning. I hope that you'll come and visit.
www.nancyksews@blogspost.com

Rachel said...

WOW!!! I love that, and you are a super patient person to do 8 muslins. That fabric is so pretty, too.

SewDucky said...

Very cute top, and it's flattering on you. I like it, and love it with the skirt!

Enjoy Miami, and congrats to a successful conference!

Adriana B. said...

Great work! The perseverance paid off!

kbenco said...

Fabulous t shirt. I am really impressed with your draping work.

Claudine said...

wow, it looks great and it sounds like you learned a ton! Nice work.

Jackie said...

Glad everything went well with the conference. Have a great time in Miami! You top is really cute!

Carol said...

Cute top. You have the patience of Job. I really couldn't be bothered doing all that work for one top. Enjoy Miami.

Marita said...

Hey Trena, you beat me to this, it's on my to knock -off list as well along with a RO top with one twisted shoulder/one cap sleeve, yours looks really nice and have fun in Miami:-)

Sew4Fun said...

Bravo! Great work on the drafting!! Eight muslins sounds about right. This is why I quickly got over drafting my own patterns. :) Anything interesting takes so much time and effort to get right. It's a very pretty and intersting top. You should be pleased with yourself.

Lisette M said...

wow! that was a lot of work! but it turned out very cute!

AllisonC said...

You did a fantastic job, both draft ing and sewing this and staying sane. I looked at your muslins and thought I might have stopped at number 6, but the reality is I would not have got anywhere near to even 6 muslins. Congrats on your successful conference too.

Dana said...

Great work on the T! Enjoy your sunny vacation!

Meg said...

I LOVE IT!!!

Vicki said...

Well done. Very cute. Congratulations on the conference success!

Sue said...

Fabo top - great work in persisting until you got it!

laura said...

Very impressive! Have fun in Miami, it's certainly an interesting place to visit.

Jill B said...

Fantastic! And, is that a defined stomach poking into the picture on the first couple of muslins. Geez, girl.

melissa said...

This is AWESOME! I love the style, and frankly, you're a superwoman for going through that many muslins. I think I would've given up at muslin #3!

neighbourhood.gal said...

I bet this would go like hotcakes over at Burdastyle...

Linda said...

You really did a great job with this top. Persistence pays off.

elbereth said...

Your top is so impressive and it really looks sharp with your Kasia skirt! Fantastic job!