Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Vogue 1282, Donna Karan Cowl Variation

Vogue 1282 Thumbnail

I have had Vogue 1282 for a while, but wasn't motivated to sew it until I saw Cenetta's (The Mahogany Stylist) outfit; she originally wrote about the top here.  Suddenly I saw the possibilities!

I made most of this fabric into a dress, but had a large piece leftover.  Rather than just make a t-shirt, I pulled out this pattern.  I cut a 6 at the shoulders and bust, transitioning to a 10 at the hip.  Fabric limitations prevented me from cutting a 12 at the hip, and I needed it.

This is one GIANT pattern piece cut on the bias.  I appreciate that they give you a full size pattern piece, instead of a half pattern that you have to copy yourself into a full one.  I had to cut it on the floor, which involves knee pads and a lot of groaning.

I've never really understood bias with knit, but I figured I had enough fabric so I'd give it a try.  The resulting drape is very nice, but I'm not sure it's more drapey in this particular polyester knit than it would have been on grain.  For a sturdier rayon and definitely for a cotton knit, I can see how the bias would make a difference.

I cut a 6 at the shoulders and bust, transitioning to a 10 at the hip.  I ended up taking the tiniest seam allowance possible in the center back seam at the hip, so next time I will cut a 12 at the hip.

Interfacing Patch at Center Front
I stitched the center front seam up about 2 1/2 inches higher than marked.  It was impressively low.  Once I determined where I wanted that CF stitch line to end, I fused interfacing patches to both sides as suggested.  I shortened the stitch length to 1 near the end, using tiny stitches for extra strength.  I didn't have any issues with the stitches ripping out, though I may go back in and do a narrow zigzag at the top just for extra insurance.

Sideish

I tested out a weight in the bottom of the cowl, as directed in the instructions, but I didn't think it added a lot to the top.  In my tests at home the weight did not stop the "pocket" created at the bottom of the CF seam from poking to the outside rather than staying inside the point close to the body, a phenomenon you can see in the photo at right.  And since I was making this for vacation, I didn't want to accidentally wear this to fly in and fail the metal detector!

Now that I'm back and not going near a metal detector for a while (nor hiking many miles in the top with the weight bouncing against my sternum all the way up the mountain) I'll put the weight in and see if I like it better.

Sleeve
I wanted to try out this pattern with a sleeve, because I think it would make a nice winter top in a sweater knit or other heavier fabric.  I used my favorite flutter sleeve from Burda 03-2008-113 (which has a fairly standard sleeve head) and just popped it into the armscye.  The armscye is cut out of this one-piece top in a very oblong shape with a point at the armpit end, kind of like an (American) football shape, so I wasn't sure how a sleeve would play with it.  Other than having to set it in in-the-round because there is no side seam (I infinitely prefer to set in in-the-flat), I had zero issues with the sleeve, even with the unusual armscye shape.  Knits are so forgiving.  This pattern is definitely on the list for Fall/Winter sewing.  Now I have an excuse to go sweater knit shopping, right?

Back Neckline

The only thing I don't love about this pattern is the back neck.  When sewn as drafted I had serious sad little droopage/gapage at the CB neck, so I curved the seam in, taking about 1 inch on either side of the CB seam and it sits much more flush.  You can see that the neckline opening is finished by turning under a narrow hem, and then folding out and tacking down a cut-on facing.

I am not crazy about this, as I prefer elastic in the back neck of a knit top.  Next time I will probably create a casing using the facing and thread elastic through it, stitching in the ditch at the shoulders to catch the elastic.  I do not like a gaping back neck.  I could also experiment with trimming the cut-on facing off at the back only, serging in elastic and turning it down and then folding the front facing in place as before.  Because there are shoulder seams, this can be done cleanly.

Favorite Vacation Picture

For my Greece trip I packed 4 dresses, 3 tops, a pair of shorts, and a pair of yoga capris.  Everything got worn twice except for this top, but that's because it was new and I didn't want to sweat-stain it!  I wore it on the day we hiked from Perissa beach to Kamari Beach by way of Ancient Thera, where these photos were taken (yes, we hiked up from the black volcanic beach you can see in the background--it was steep!).

Although I only wore it once it is immortalized in my favorite photo of myself from the trip, at the "end of world" at Ancient Thera.  I think you can see how happy I am (though admittedly the top didn't have *that* much to do with it). (You can see the photos from the trip here.)

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

26 comments:

Little Hunting Creek said...

I like your top. I overlooked that pattern too. I'll have to take a second look. And I will definitely use sleeves

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

the top looks great and I would not have thought to use that pattern for a casual top. But the photo is FANTASTIC! gorgeous.

twotoast said...

So, I commented on this top under your 'Double Layer Tank Dress' post (oops!) - I shall comment upon that dress on this post. Sometimes life gets a tad confusing!

Lovely dress - I really like the double layer look, and such a great way to use up two fabrics that would have been a problem on their own!

The location looks fabulous as well!

catspec said...

Great top, as well as the rest of the outfits...and wow...what a wonderful place to go for vacation and what lovely photos! :)

Venus de Hilo said...

This top is a "win" for sure, both the style and the color/print! You make working with knits look so easy, and give me hope I will someday get a win of my own out of something more sophisticated than a basic tank or T.

Adelaide B said...

This turned out pretty cute! I never would have looked twice at the this pattern, but it makes up pretty nicely.

Trumbelina said...

Gah!! What a trip! Great top, and that is a fantastic pic of you at the End of the World.

emadethis said...

This falls so prettily in front. A much more creative and feminine addition to hiking gear which is so man like too often. It looks like your vacation was beautiful!

kathy said...

I love your favorite photo of you at the "End of the World". Beautiful green tone on you.

Kyle said...

That photo is great and I love your hair in braids!!

countrygirlcouture said...

Cute tee, stunning background!! It's so awesome that you get some garment pictures in "exotic" places. :-) Hope you had a great trip!

Zoë said...

Cute top! Greece looks amazing too :)

Rose said...

Great top! thank you for sharing the pattern review and vacation pictures!

Rose in SV

Kristy said...

You go on the best travels - how are you ever going to better that shimmering blue sea and Greece for a background for al your future project photos?

Clio said...

Santorini is amazing, isn't it? And that's the perfect top for the end of the world!

I made the same top (I loved how low cut it is, LOL). I found that a dime added the perfect weight to the neckline and kept it from flipping to the outside, but that may be less of an issue if you sewed it up higher, as many people have.

sdBev said...

Theblouse is lovely. Your Thera photo. Stunning!!!!!

Linda said...

I did not like the look of this pattern; however, after seeing your version and Cennata's it definitely deserves more attention. Great job on fitting this and so envious of your travels.

Sue said...

What a cute hiking outfit - you look great! I love to hear about travel wardrobes and wheat works and what doesn't - thanks for sharing!

AllisonC said...

Hiking in DKNY, how cool is that!?
I haven't seen any versions of this yet where the neckline hasn't had to be stitched higher, but that doesn't take away from what a genius pattern this is, I can't begin to imagine what the pattern piece looks like!

Kelly said...

I think it looks great! Fantastic hiking wear :)

liza jane said...

Nice! I probably wouldn't have looked twice at this pattern without your review. But there is something about it that looks super flattering. You look super stylish hiking around Greece. Beautiful photos!

Mrs L said...

Love your top and the addition of sleeves!

Joy said...

I love seeing your Greece photos! And I imagine you were the most stylish hiker around.

The top turned out very pretty and the addition of sleeves must make it somewhat more versatile. I think I've sewn a knit on the bias just once, as an experiment. It was a stable knit, and it didn't seem to get any drapier on the bias. However the slightly visible grain in the fabric did make for an interesting visual effect.

McVal said...

LOVE that top! and I'm so jealous of your vacation in Greece... SOMEDAY I want to leave the country again too!

Nancy K said...

Very pretty. I don't get the bias and knit thing either. It's not a woven so there is no bias as far as I've read.

Faye Lewis said...

Don't you just love your top. It's cute. I made two of them and really get a lot of wear from them.