Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Simplicity 6110, 1973 Notched Collar Blouse

S6110 Thumbnail

The pattern came from a friend's grandmother and was passed along to me in February 2009.  When I posted about it, both Little Hunting Creek and Audrey of Sew Tawdry commented that they had made the pattern in high school!  What fun!  It's been on my list for quite a while, and Pattern Review's Vintage Contest finally got me to push it to the top of the list.

The fabric, a printed dotted Swiss, came from Fabric Mart in June 2010 for $4.99/yd.  I had just enough for the top and no more.  I love it when that happens--no jigsaw layout with questionable grain, no large scraps to contend with.

S6110 Instruction Sheet
It's a one size pattern, size 10 for a 32 1/2" bust.  Did these one size patterns come pre-cut?  I feel like all the vintage patterns I've made are already cut out, even if they don't show signs of having been used (this one had no pin marks).

The instructions are always interesting for vintage patterns.  One side of the instruction sheet covers the blouse, the skirt, and the pants, but somehow they don't feel truncated or cursory.  The illustrations are copious and good, better than current patterns, I think.

Yoke with Numbered Notches



As with modern patterns, there are copious notches.  Unlike modern patterns, however, they are numbered, which makes them much more useful.  Why did they stop doing that?

Check out the size of the groovy collar.

Front Yoke



The only real change I made to the pattern was to cut an extra yoke so I could enclose it using the burrito method.  It ended up adding some bulk to my fabric, which had to be underlined, but the finish is so much nicer!



Back Facing
This has a back facing, which I think is pretty normal for notch collar sewing patterns. I don't know that the facing was drafted correctly, as the lower edge of the facing seems longer/wider than the back where it hits, resulting in the curling you see in the photo. Obviously, it's not as bad when it's on a body, which is round rather than flat, but it did not feel totally secure from flopping. I tacked it down to the back neck darts (another thing I wish hadn't disappeared).

Cuff Construction

Cuff Closeup
One of the great features of this pattern is the cuff. It's actually less Space Diner Waitress made up than on the illustration.

The right side of the cuff piece is attached to the wrong side of the sleeve so that the seam allowance is on the outside, as you can see at left.  The cuff is then folded up, enclosing the seam allowance.  There's no danger of the SA showing, it's just so weird to me to have it on the "business" side of the blouse.

Shapeless



The top is quite roomy and shapeless as drafted.  It has to be tucked or belted as shown on the pattern envelope.  The photo at left is untucked, but unfortunately it doesn't look as bad in the photo as in real life.  Trust me, it's quite unflattering.  Because the rules for PR's Vintage Contest are pretty strict I made it as is, but for the future I would definitely add darts or elastic shirring to bring in some shape.

If I made it again I would also definitely make that collar smaller.  It is huge!  Without the huge collar and with some shape, this can totally pass for a contemporary garment.





Front

Back


My photographer started giving me art direction, telling me to "Look haughty" in the closeup shot, LOL.  Although nobody takes pictures of me like Cidell, they came out pretty good.  We did get one outtake for your amusement, though.  Also, he is taller than me and makes me look super short.  Which I am, but I mostly forget that.  Is this what I look like to him?

Because Josette asked, the skirt is Burda 09-2008-108.  I wear this skirt all the freaking time--it goes with everything.


All photos are here and the pattern review is here.







=================

Thank you all for your thoughtful discussion of What is a Wedding Dress Worth?  Very interesting conversation!  Like Lucia and others, I wonder what will happen when the world runs out of cheap labor.  As communication gets cheaper and makes the world smaller every day, disparities in standards of living get more glaring.  I think that will eventually lead to demands that the producers of consumer goods be able to afford at least some of them.  Will the pendulum swing the other way, back to more expensive goods, investment purchasing, and smaller closets?  Or is it impossible to stuff that cat back into the bag?  Only time will tell, and probably not in my lifetime, but it is interesting to contemplate.

(And in case I am coming off sanctimonious, believe me, I am not; I am just as addicted to cheap fabric as your average consumer is to cheap clothes, and I am under no illusion that it is woven from pussywillows and goosedown by fabric fairies.)

51 comments:

petite josette said...

This blouse is really cute - and I love all the outfits on the pattern envelope. Is the skirt pattern in there too?
And Speaking of skirt, I love the one you're wearing. It looks simple but the pleat and zipper in the back are great details. Did you make this or is it RTW ?

Reethi said...

I love your shirt! And it's very 4th of July, no?

Little Hunting Creek said...

Very cute-we had such large collars back then. I had forgotten. I used to wear mine with a red denim wrap skirt and espadrilles that tied st the ankle. Both of which are now back in style as well

Lori said...

Very cute blouse with great details. Numbered notches would be a great feature, forgot about those. Good luck in the contest.

Allison said...

That blouse looks fantastic on you! I totally bought that pattern because of your last post by the way.

Beverly said...

That is a great blouse!! I love it.

Clio said...

I love the turn up sleeves with button! Super cute top!

knitmachinequeen (KMQ) said...

Great blouse. Love the fabric. TFS

Adelaide B said...

Yes, this is crazy cute. I also love the sleeve cuffs.

Nancy K said...

You look great! That notch collared neckline is a winner; so worth making the changes you want. You can still pin in some darts to slim down the fit.

catspec said...

Nope - they didn't come cut out but people were careful - I always just pinned it on, no trimming but some people trimmed and then chalked around the pattern. :) GREAT SHIRT!!

SEWN said...

This blouse is so cute. I love the fabric. Beautiful!

Seraphinalina said...

Great blouse, I love the fabric and it looks fantastic tucked in.

I am also short and sometimes I look at pictures and wonder if that's the way I look to tall people. It doesn't feel like that.

Sigrid said...

Lovely blouse and fabric. If you want just add the darts now the pictures for the contest are done with. You made it following the rules, no one says you can't change anything afterwards.

great combo with the skirt too.

CGCouture said...

Sometimes the marriage of fabric and pattern is simply perfect. Like this time. ;-) Gorgeous!!

And I hear ya on being short. I'm 5'2"-ish and I get teased by my tall hubby and every other guy I know (apparently short guys don't exist in my world?) because of it.

emadethis said...

So cute! The collar is so 70s awesome in magnitude. It looks great with the skirt too--will you alter it after the contest has ended so that you have the option to not tuck?

Elaray said...

The top looks great and very current. Love the fabric, too.

marysews said...

Nice blouse! Are you sure it wasn't "Look Hottie?" ... lol (I've been known to rouse some rabbles along life's way)

Sew-4-Fun said...

Lovely blouse and skirt! Your whole outfit looks great.

Carol said...

I have this pattern languishing in my stash, too. I think the fabric you've used is perfect and I would wear the hell out of this blouse, I love it!

Digs said...

Those two pieces make a GREAT outfit together. They look adorable!

Faye Lewis said...

There's nothing like a great notched collar blouse. Yours is too cute.

Trumbelina said...

you have my vote!!

Deirdre said...

This shirt looks perfect on you. Excellent work.

Jane M said...

Terrific outfit which looks wonderful on you. Ah, those large 70s collars make me smile nowadays. I felt veryMary Tyler Moore in mine.

velosewer said...

So cute and really well made too. The detailing on this blouse is spot on. The colours are also very 70s.

Claire S. said...

Love the pattern of the blouse. Very cute outfit, and it looks great on you !

meli88a said...

Oh my goodness. You look like such a little munchkin in that outtake! I didn't even notice how big the collar is on you (for what it's worth). The shirt is very nice on you and with your fit tweaks, future versions will be even better.

Mrs. Micawber said...

Ah, the large-collared days of the 70s. I think most of them (the collars I mean) could have doubled as the Flying Nun's wimple (or headpiece or whatever that thing is called). But the print offers excellent camouflage and really the blouse is adorable.

(I am also reminded of a line from Ocean's Eleven in which George Clooney tells Brad Pitt: "Ted Nugent called. He wants his shirt back.")

It's definitely made for tucking in - which gives it a nice drape around the waistband.

petite josette said...

This blouse is really cute - and I love all the outfits on the pattern envelope. Is the skirt pattern in there too?
And Speaking of skirt, I love the one you're wearing. It looks simple but the pleat and zipper in the back are great details. Did you make this or is it RTW ?

a little sewing said...

You look wonderful! (what is this thing you call "looking short"?) That is an adorable top, and adorable skirt and you've accessorized it beautifully.
Two thumbs up!

Sue said...

Really love this combo and love the shirt. The colour/pattern is great and the details keep it interesting. Love that skirt too (may have to add it to the list!)

All the best for the contest.

Vicki said...

Well done. It looks fabulous. Nice photos too. But stop with the 70's being vintage.....I feel so old!

House of Pinheiro said...

Great project.. I'm new here and will be back again xx

Www.houseofpinheiro.blogspot.com

LinB said...

Nope, the patterns were printed on big sheets of tissue paper just as they are nowadays. If you fell between sizes, you had to buy the pattern twice, to get both sizes -- multi-size patterns were revolutionary when first introduced. I dimly remember that they cost a wee bit more than the single-sized ones, but not nearly so much as the cost of two patterns. An even dimmer memory is that numbered notches died out in the late 80s or early 90s (I rarely followed the pattern's instructions in the "proper" order, so I wasn't paying attention to notch numbers.)

Nethwen said...

The shirt and the out fit look great! I especially like the sleeve cuffs.

Lynneb said...

A perfectly adorable blouse! It looks great on, and I am loving the entire outfit...very sharp.

Lynn said...

You've missed your calling as a fashion model! Keep that photographer. Excellent work on the blouse.

Audrey said...

Oh how fun! The blouse looks really nice, not at all dated. I remember really liking the cuffs on the sleeves and using some honking big buttons (red) on mine.

Janet said...

I love your outfit, the skirt is just about perfect for your new blouse.

I think a few of darts would help take out some of the blousyness you dislike.

McVal said...

It looks so MOD in that print! Love it!

yvonne said...

That blouse is terrific and will be really something once you add your special touches next time around! Love the skirt. Beautiful shape and very versatile!

Stitchy Witch said...

Cute! I have the sister to that fabric (mine has cherries in the same colorway - I almost bought yours as well!

I've wondered about vintage patterns myself, as sometimes I will get one that looks suspiciously new, yet it's almost cut out (most often 1/2 inch or so away from the cutting line.

I really like your whole outfit, especially the shirt/skirt combo - great colors on you!

Phyllis said...

LOL well you can count me as the third sewist who wore this pattern in high school! This pattern of touches vintage in two ways, it's old enough to be vintage in its own right and in the 70's styles from the 40's were revived. I love the looks in this pattern just as much now as when I wore them so long ago. It's a real treat to see it made up and worn again! You made a great choice and it looks great on you.

SheriNJ said...

Your blouse is so cute - you'll have my vote!

cidell said...

It doesn't look dated at all to me. And, you know I love the colors :)

Kelly's Korner said...

The top looks great tucked in! That outfit is a winner! And kudos to your photographer. You look like you were having fun!

Mary said...

Take with grain of salt...as I was in my prime in the 70s. You look amazing in that style and the collar is perfect! Don't make it smaller-the width is perfect for your tiny self. I love it.

gwensews said...

That is a very cute blouse, so summer! The pattern is classic and will never go out of style.

Elizabeth said...

turned out great, and looks super adorable with that skirt!

I love using vintage patterns and seeing how they printed them way back when. I'm old enough to remember the pattern that you used, and oh how I remember the look of them along with the instructions. I don't remember them ever being pre cut. I think people get excited and cut them out ahead of time, and perhaps never get to make them, I have done that on more than one occasion.

Cennetta said...

Love the vintage blouse. The cuffs are great. Like you I wondered why the pattern companies stopped numbering the notches. They were a good point of reference, especially for new sewists. Good luck with the contest.