Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Burda 06-2009-129, Knit Crossover Dress

Burda 06-2009-129 Thumbnail

I bought this knit print from Jomar in October 2009, over a year ago, so it seemed a good candidate for the stash contest. To me, these colors say Fall/Winter so Burda 06-2009-129 with its long sleeves seemed perfect. I also wanted a pattern that would break up the print a little because when the fabric was laid out for cutting it became very clear that the print looks like, um, sperm (look at the white thing in the middle of the motif). With them swimming downhill and multiple pattern pieces (at least in front) I think this effect is mitigated, thank goodness! So I will call this the Junior Mint dress rather than the alternative.

Back Lining View The white parts of the print are rather sheer, so I determined about halfway through construction that the dress needed to be lined. It is a rather standard thin poly knit, so the lining was a good idea anyway for a dress to be worn in cooler weather. To keep the lining from shifting around too much, it is sewn to the dress as one at the back neckline and the armscyes and then caught into the back darts. It made sewing more difficult than necessary, but it behaves very well. The sleeves are unlined.

Front Lining View The front is partially lined as drafted, as there is an underlayer below the front crossover. After I completed this I realized it's actually very similar in style to the Kate Middleton/Issa Dress (the original, not mine) and would make an easy substitute for such a project, although it is a faux front crossover, which is caught in the side seam, rather than ties (could easily be converted). To jigger the lining in, I sewed the front to the back with both linings as one at the side seams above the waist, and treated the lining and fashion fabric layers separately below the front waistline seam. Rather than gather the front lining at the waistline as for the fashion fabric, I pleated it to reduce bulk.


Neckline Darts The front underlayer is the only thing I don't like about this dress. It is drafted as a low V neck that is not intended to show under the crossover. However, I liked the idea of it as a faux camisole so I cut it with a higher scoop neck out of black double knit purchased from Kashi at Metro Textiles in NYC in November 2009. It is very odd for Burda, but this is so hugely gapey. You can see where I cut out a scoop at the top and replaced it with a narrower scoop, but this hardly made a dent in how gapey it is. The neckline is several inches wider than I am. I then added neckline darts, which took care of the problem. If I were to make this again, I would take about 3.5 inches out of the neckline width.

The back neckline is also quite wide, which I have no opinion on as a style but I should have sewn clear elastic into it. Not sure if I'll go back and do that as the poly knit doesn't take kindly to seam ripping as the stich line leaves a series of visible holes. The neckline is wide so I sewed in a pair of bra strap keepers (I'm going to have to go back to NYC soon to get some more of these from Steinlauf and Stoller).

Front


Although the drafting is not quite what it ought to be in the front underlayer and the slightly too wide or low back neckline, for the most part I really like this dress. It is a very flattering style for me and fairly easy to construct. I am quite pleased with how well the swayback adjustment came out--no puddling at all! I am also pleased to have moved this fabric off the stash shelf. I have now completed all 7 fabrics from that trip to Jomar (well, I still have a bit of this left, enough to make a top I think)! I feel such a sense of accomplishment when I complete large lots like that.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

38 comments:

Trudy Callan said...

Very very pretty! That's a really great print. It is very flattering on you.

Debbie Cook said...

I really like this too! It's a great style on you. LOL on the sperm and Junior Mints references. The neckline issues aren't visible in your pics, so it looks like the bra strap keepers are doing their job.

Lisette M said...

Great dress, it is really flattering. I'm surprised that the neckline was too loose initially, that's something I haven't encountered with Burda patterns.

Karin said...

Another cute dress! In my mind, you are the *queen* of knit dresses. You make so many that look comfortable and pretty at the same time.

meli88a said...

Look at you rocking out this awesome print! While the crossover design may be Kate Middleton-esque, I doubt the princess could pull off this awesome print with such aplomb!

KID, MD said...

So cute! I didn't notice the sperminess until you pointed it out, so I think breaking it up was a success! Thanks for addressing the neckline issues. It otherwise looks like a total win!

Amanda S. said...

I love it and it's very flattering on you! I too didn't notice the white parts until you pointed them out. Haha, how funny! Congratulations on getting everything sewn up from that particular trip. I always feel a sense of accomplishment when I get everything used from one shipment - not that it happens too often. I've GOT to stop purchasing fabric!

Melissa said...

I totally don't recall that dress pattern. I need to go back to my Burda and check it out more closely. I love your version and the fabric is so awesome! Enjoy your beautiful new dress!

senaSews said...

Beautiful and so flattering dress. Love the faux crossover front.

The Sewing Loft said...

I think this is one of the more flattering outfits you have made. The colors are great on you and those pretty shoes are the icing on the cake. Great job! :)

Ruth said...

The dress looks fabulous on you. I'm curious what type of fabric you use for lining of a knit dress....regular lining fabric? Also did you do a SBA?

melissa said...

oooh yayy! This looks really nice! I made this dress in late 2009 and I still wear it ALL the time - I've been meaning to sew it again, really. I'd definitely agree about reinforcing the "camisole" and back necklines with clear elastic, though. Mine was fine initially, but it has stretched out over time from being on the hanger.

Rosie said...

The dress suits you! LOL about the Junior Mints and other reference as to the pattern of the material.

Nancy K said...

It's a great dress on you.

neighbourhood.gal said...

Oh, I am so glad! I have been thinking about this dress, but the photo in the magazine makes it look so snug. (I know that as the sewist, I can change that, but I was worried about the style lines...)

This looks lovely and I have just the knit print for it!

Susan said...

That dress really does suit you well. Junior mints here we go! lol. Great job on this one.

MushyWear said...

The Junior Mint dress is a winner!

Audrey said...

I love junior mints!. Great pattern choice for this large print knit. The colors and the style are very flattering to you.

Clio said...

I never would have thought sperm. But since you mentioned it, now I can't think of a single comment that isn't in some way inappropriate. LOL
Looks great.

Elizabeth said...

I really like this dress on you! The shoes look so cute with it!! It does evoke Junior mints, in a happy sweet way :)

McVal said...

What a crazy fun print! It turned out beautiful.

Becky said...

OK,I love this dress!! I love junior Mints!! I love sp....nevermind.

Carol said...

This is one of those patterns I keep looking at and then talking myself out of. Now you've made I want to as well. The print is cute and it's a really nice style for you. I have a knit dress in the same colours and it always makes me think of choc mint, too.

Kim said...

It looks really nice - not at all s...I wouldn't have noticed without it being pointed out anyway. I made this dress some time ago and also found the shoulders sat very wide (although this isnt a problem I generally have). I put mine away after wearing but seeing how cute yours looks maybe I need to just fix the problems and try again.

Eugenia said...

You always make such fabulous looking knit dresses and this is no exception! I love that print, although your characterisation of it made me laugh, I think it looks very elegant and flattering.

KarenP said...

Very cute dress! I love it with those tights and shoes.

Sewingelle said...

This is a great dress and you look fabulous in it. Love the shoes too!

Hmm I've got a large wintery print knit that I've been wondering what to do with. I think you've inspired me!

Anonymous said...

Every time I decide to copy one of your dresses (in different fabric of course) you come up with a different one that is even cuter! I'm never going to start sewing because I can't decide which one I like the best.

kathy said...

okay - but now I cannot get the idea of sperm off this dress.

Still - a lovely dress and if you have a need for junior mints, then go for it.

FITZ said...

going to see family in 19128 this weekend. trying to sneak out of house monday morning for a jomar run. have never been. cannot wait. tha is all

Uta said...

Great dress! My association was rather 80s style graffiti prints; I once had an overall like that, in baby blue no less! The pattern looks great, I wish I got around to sewing more dresses.

BrusselsSprout_Katharine said...

Wh-o-a, you really saw the possibilities of this dress that the insipid magazine version never presented to me. In the mag you see how the neckline is falling off her shoulders? Maybe that's the drafted gap and how they fixed it on set. What a cool Junior Mints dress and good colours on you.

A Sewn Wardrobe said...

Despite the construction issues, this looks like a great dress. I really like it with the grey tights.

Barbara at Cat Fur Studio said...

A really nice use for that print. The dress looks great.

kbenco said...

I just had to look up Junior mints. Why are they Junior? Wiklopedia is letting me down!
The dress is really cute on you. I have been considering this pattern so am very pleased to have the neckline issues identified. Thank you.

Anonymous said...

Ah, the power of suggestion: I would not have noticed the sperm graphics if you hadn't mentioned it, but now that's all I see! But the dress looks great on you! Karen

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

You pick the prettiest knits! This is a really cute dress on you.

SEWN said...

Definitely a flattering dress. I love that print!