Friday, April 26, 2013

Burda 09-2011-128, Theory Deronisa Blouse

Burda 09-2011-128 Thumbnail

Source: via Trena on Pinterest

I don't wear too many blouses, and I'm not sure why.  I think part of it is that a very traditional collar-with-stand blouse just isn't interesting enough for me!  It makes me feel too cookie-cutter lawyer-y (even though none of my co-workers dress like that either).

However, Burda publishes some interesting variations on the theme, including this Burda 09-2011-128.  I don't know that it struck me at the time, but when I was doing some snoop shopping last year I ran across the Theory "Deronisa" blouse, $200 and available in various colors.  I remembered this pattern and could see the possibilities in it more.

This was sort of a wearable muslin--made with fabric from Robin's swap party!--intended to see if the pattern would be nice for a silk with long sleeves (redrafting the shoulder to remove the extension.  I think it will work, though it is (mostly) past long sleeve weather so it will probably be a project for next Fall.


My main alteration to this was to add a CB seam and back darts.  It would otherwise be fairly shapeless, though to give Burda credit the Deronisa blouse is rather shapeless as well.  I used my basic woven pullover top to get the shape of the back seam and the darts.  Makes life so easy!

I did not do anything for an SBA.  I thought I might end up needing to narrow the front pleats, but I don't feel that this is excessively large over the bust. 

Made by Evyline did an excellent photo tutorial on the unusual collar construction.  I won't repeat her work--definitely check it out if you plan to make this.

 Just to pique your interest, the collar is in the back only. The front extends past the back bodice, drafted in a length to meet the collar, so the blouse is a consistent height from the front to the back. I think it's a great way to get the extra formality/crispness of a collar without being too much.  The front darts are rotated into the neckline pleats.

Fold SA of Inner Collar Under

You first stitch the outer collar in place, then finish it by stitching the inner collar over it.  Be sure to fold under the seam allowance of the inner collar before pinning it in place so it will be neatly tucked under when turned to the inside.

Finished Collar/Facing Intersection, Inside

You can see that rather than radically trim the side seam of the collar, I left it pretty wide and focused on turning it inward to create a neat corner.  I find that when I clip very close to the seams on collars, it is actually harder for me to get a sharp point than if I clip the long edge close and leave the short edge longer and concentrate on folding the SA in and pressing in place.

Finished Collar Pleat Intersection, Outside

Here's what the collar looks like on the outside when it's finished.  Feel free to observe my truly horrendous attempt at stitching in the ditch.  I never stitch in the ditch; this is why.  Next time I would probably either topstitch, or more likely hand stitch the inner collar to the SA.

Finish Armscye Before Side Seam

I finished the armscyes with bias tape before sewing the side seams, mostly because I am really lazy about measuring bias tape and the opening it's meant to finish to get an exact length.  I don't know that this was the best method; at the very least, I should have extended the bias tape 1/2 inch beyond the edge of the fashion fabric on each end.

My house made (to pretend that we are at a fancy bistro) bias tape is too wide.  I may need to go in and trim it, leaving a raw edge because it folds under on itself and threatens to show.

Length as Drafted

It is drafted CRAZY long.  There is also a dress length for this pattern.  There is no indication the shirt is meant to be a tunic but that's about the length they have marked for the blouse hem.  I ended up shortening it by 5 inches.


I keep talking about all the sloppy things I did in making this (and while we're on the subject, the hem is totally crooked), but actually for the most part I think it is quite well done, if I do say so myself.  The pleats came out sharp, and the front facing finish is crisp.  The corners of the collar are not *perfectly* flush with the front, but pretty darn close.

I like the blouse a lot, but I'm not crazy about the shape of the armscye.  It just sits a little weird.  I don't know how much of that is related to my extra-wide bias tape and crisp fabric, though.  I am definitely interested in making the pattern again.

I've paired it here the my Burda 09-2008-108 skirt, in wool with a lace overlay.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.


Marita said...

Hello K, I love this blouse, thank you for making it, as I said I love it but DD wan't impressed so it remained unmade, lovely fabric.

Stephanie Farinelli said...

Your stitch in the ditch looks great! And it does look better shortened!

Kathy said...

Oooooh! I love it. The print is so cheerful and the alterations are perfect. Hiding the collar makes this such a smart top for warmer weather.

Peter Lappin said...

It's a lovely blouse; nobody will ever your stitch-in-the-ditch stitches. Great print!

Adelaide B said...

Yeah, that length looks much better on you. The line drawings for this pattern never do it for me, but I've seen some lovely tops made from it. (Yours being one of them.)

Kelly said...

Well, I love just about everything about this! I've been really into blouses lately, and forgot about this one. The shape looks great, belting it is fantastic, and you can't go wrong with yellow!

Temporary Mouse said...

Good color and fabric, blouse itself seems too large in back, as if meant for cotton gauze. I think your complaint about the armscye might be answered by making the back about a seam's width narrower.

Ripple Dandelion said...

Oh, that's so pretty. It's a great shape and length for you. Obviously, you should wear more blouses! I really like the color and the print too. All in all, quite a winner.

Ms. McCall said...

I've had Evyline's version stuck in my head for a while now, and this just takes the biscuit! I love the fun bright print, perfect for the spring / summer.

Paola said...

I've made this blouse too, and second your observations: the need for a CB seam, the fact that it isn't overly big in the bust area (I really should have done an FBA), it's length and it's strange armscye. I'm going to make it again with this in mind, because I really like this blouse overall. Your version is very pretty.

Faye Lewis said...

Your top is nice and summery Trena. I love it belted.

Mrs. Micawber said...

This is really cute - the fabric and the design. (And you're right about collar trimming.)

I think this pattern could be stunning in a really drapey fabric like rayon - with or without sleeves ... then you could eliminate the CB seam etc. and just let it flow (if you wanted).

KellysUp to Something said...

Love it and the fabric. I like yours better than the model on the pattern.

Kristy said...

Fantastic fabric, and it looks great belted and worn with the straight skirt. You certainly saw the potential in that pattern that I didn't see

L said...

Very pretty. I like the belted look, too. What fabric did you use for your skirt?

HeathersSphere said...

Wow! Your version is sew-sational and that fabric is awesome!

badmomgoodmom said...

I think this looks pretty darn nice. I can't see why you don't like the armscythe.
Can you explain what you feel is wrong with it?

panavia999 said...

It looks better on you than on those skinny models. On you it shows how the style really works on a real feminine shape.
I think the longer length would be nice too, done in a solid , cinched with a belt. Like in a rayon or silk blend that would feature the drapiness.

McVal said...

LOVE that style!!!

catspec said...

So Summery and pretty - nice addition for work or play!

Mary said...

This looks great on you and I appreciate all your details on the construction. Wear more blouses like this :-)

Nikki said...

You made the neck band sound so easy. I battled for ages with it when I made it. I like the shaping in the back too. It certainly makes it a lot more wearable and the length is great.

Lisette M said...

It has a beautiful neckline, and it looks very nice on you.

Nancy D said...

I've made this blouse three times now, but I still refer to this post every time I try to figure out that danged collar. Thank you so much for taking the time to write up the details!