Thursday, May 24, 2012

Simplicity 2938, Silk Princess Seam Tank

S2938 Thumbnail



Source: zappos.com via Trena on Pinterest


Is there anything more luxurious than a silk tank?  It's easy to wear and comfortable for hot weather, but instantly dressy enough for most any occasion.  You generally have to go pretty high end to find silk in RTW, like this Cynthia Rowley Printed Silk Tank ($275).

Front Closeup
Mine was a little easier on the wallet.  I got this silk print from Fabric Mart for $9.99/yd several years ago.  I made it into Vogue 2858, but I never got much wear out of the dress.  It had a dropped waist which just does.not.work for me, and I made it when I was still learning fitting (well, I'm still learning--I guess I mean earlier in the journey) and it was slightly too tight at the ribcage; I was afraid a deep breath would split the fabric.

So after years of not wearing it, I finally took it apart and salvaged the fabric from the skirt.  I had just enough to make this top (the hem is a serger rolled hem because I didn't have enough length for a real hem).


Staystitch then Serge

 In my previous iteration of this top, I used a self-bias tape to bind the neckline and armscye edges.  For this one I decided to finish with foldover elastic.  Who says it's only for knits?

To start, I staystitched the neckline and armscye.  I was happy with the neckline where it lay in its raw state, so I stitched just a little in from the edge (retaining the seam allowance in the final garment).

For the armscye, I staystitched at 1/2 inch, 1/8 inch shy of the 5/8 inch seam allowance.  This was to prevent stretching and  to mark my line for seger finishing.

Serge both the neckline and armscye to prevent fraying.

Stitch Wrong Side Elastic from Front





When I went to Golden D'Or in Dallas over the winter holidays, I was hoping they would have foldover elastic.  They had some, but the choices were kind of weird and the only thing that appealed to me was this black and copper elastic.  When contemplating this tank top, I thought it would be perfect.

When I showed my sweetheart tee finished with FOE, Country Girl Couture asked that I share my two-step process for application.  My previous attempt to apply FOE by sandwiching the edge of the fabric had been a disaster.  Maybe I don't pin well enough, but the odds of me catching the fabric were about even with not catching.  So here's what I do instead.

First, stitch the FOE to the wrong side by putting the FOE underneath the right side up the fabric, against the machine bed/feed dogs, keeping the fold at the edge.  This was kind of difficult as the fold was not easy to see on this particular FOE.  It's more obvious on most, I think.

Elastic on Wrong Side

If I had been doing this for a knit, I would have used a wide zigzag here, but since I didn't need any stretch I just used a straight stitch.

Here's the view from the wrong side (you can see the right side with overhanging elastic here).





Flip Elastic Over to Front



The next part is really easy.  Just fold the elastic over to the right side and stitch in place.

For a knit, I would use a narrower zigzag and stretch the elastic slightly as I sewed (just because a narrower zigzag looks nicer, in my opinion).

I had a bit of a tough time getting an accurate straight stitch on this pass; the stitch wanders a bit.  I think I would have done better with an edgestitching foot and adjusted needle position.

Finished Elastic-Outside






It makes a nice and easy finish without too much bulk.  So think outside knits for FOE--it's a great substitute for bias trim.

Here's the finished elastic from the inside.


French Seams






Because I was sewing with silk, I used French seams throughout.  The only exposed edge is at the hem, where (as mentioned) I finished with a serger rolled hem due to lack of length in the fabric.

As in the previous version, I left off the zipper.  The top easily pulls over the head.
Front


Back

You can see that my only real issue with this top is that the print is slightly offset at the CB seam. I didn't have enough fabric to match it exactly.

I had in mind to bring this top to keep at work to match a suit I have there.  Right now, I don't have a top for under the suit so I'd be sort of stuck if I actually needed to wear it!  (I also have about 5 different blazers, enough to match just about anything I might wear.)

But it turned out so cute I don't want to banish it to work!  So now I have to figure out a boring top to make that I won't be tempted to keep at home.  Heh.

Cidell took the photos for this so there are some great ones!  All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

41 comments:

T. Sedai said...

So cute! It cannot stay at work - that would be too depressing for a top as fun as this. Love the colors and the print. A silk top sounds so luxurious... Ok, I have been inspired, a silk top is officially on my list of things I want to make now. And the hint about the FOE is great - thanks!

Audrey said...

The blouse is cute, and thanks for pointing out that FOE can be used on wovens. Now maybe I will use up some of the FOE I have in my stash. But I really, really love the blouse worn with the green skirt and obi style belt. The outfit is a great mix of colors, prints and textures and it looks wonderful on you.

Adelaide B said...

I love the print on this one! I would never have thought to use fold over elastic this way.

Lucia said...

great save! this top is really cute. I love prints like this, sort of geometric and funky. And the best is that it goes with two very different skirts in your wardrobe!

Nancy K said...

Pretty. Nice use for a dress you never wear.

Venus de Hilo said...

Very cute print, the tank was a perfect save for a great fabric. Deserves to be enjoyed until you've worn it out, not banished to an office backup!

Lisette M said...

Great top, so versatile!Loved it styled with the obi.

CGCouture said...

Thanks for the tip, wouldn't have ever thought to use FOE on a woven, though I do prefer the way it feels compared to the storebought bias tape.

Cute blouse, and good save!

Suki said...

I've been following along with your blog for several weeks as I work up the courage to start sewing clothes, and I've really enjoyed it. I knew you lived in DC, but from today's pictures you must be in my neighborhood as I recognize all the houses in the background (sorry, I hope that doesn't sound stalkerish :)). I knew the neighborhood was full of talented people, so it's fun to find out about another talented neighbor!

Karen said...

Super cute and chic!

Clio said...

What a fun little top! I love it with the green skirt. Silk is the best.

yoshimi said...

Great job!! I really love it on you, you look super in it. Thanks for the tips about FOE, I'll have a try!

Lynneb said...

That is a darling outfit! SO love it!

liza jane said...

I've never used fold over elastic but I like that it looks pretty easy. It's a nice finish. And silk! I need a silk top in my life right now.

Faye Lewis said...

I really, really, really like your top!

Lori said...

Super cute, you will enjoy having this one in your wardrobe this summer.

Andrea said...

Great top! Beautiful fabric, too nice to not wear. Your neighborhood is lovely also.

AllisonC said...

I keep reading about things I must try, my list is getting too long! This is lovely, I agree a silk tank is a wonderful garment, I love your fabric and the FOE trim works really well.

orange dream said...

SO cute, Ms. Slapdash (not so slapdash :) either)

ana5059 said...

Wow, it's a fantastic top, love the print and the shape.

Lynn said...

I love this! The fabric is wonderful and the pattern inspiring. I'm putting it on my list (but mine will have long sleeves.) It looks terrific with the obi belt.

Meg @ Mood Fabrics said...

Trena, that is so cute. I love silk prints too. My favorite thing to look at here in the store.

Brenda said...

Ooh, I love the silk!!! The entire outfit is lovely! That obi belt is awesome.

Elizabeth said...

Love how this turned out, and it looks lovely on you! The styling with the belt is perfect :)

Digs said...

It's an adorable top. I'm very partial to lightweight silk tanks - they're gorgeous, wearable, and last forever. How do I know? I did all my fieldwork in darkest Africa in them. Better yet, my daughter has just appropriated them all: and they've been mine since(gasp!) the early 1990s. Yes you read that right. My thoroughly modern big city gal WANTS and LOVES my 20 year old hand-me-downs!

kbenco said...

Such a beautiful and versatile top. Your FOE tip is excellent, I have not tried it on a woven, but that is about to change. Thanks!

Carol said...

I love this top and I love your tip for using FOE. I have a few colours in my stash and have never actually used any of them.

Mrs. Micawber said...

What a great print - so cheerful and elegant at the same time. Your FOE method is very similar to one of the ways of adding a topstitched binding to a quilt.

Anonymous said...

Oh, I love this top so much! And pairing it with the navy skirt really makes it pop. Cindy/Creative Hormone Rush

SueC56 said...

This is my favorite of your outfits so far! I esp like the green skirt with that top. Well done. Maybe I need to make something out of silk. You have inspired me!

SueC56

Kyle said...

Thanks for showing how you sew FOE. Do you use a ratio of 1:1 for your FOE to neckline? Is it a different ratio when applying to knits? If so, what is it? :)
I agree, it looks great with the obi belt and green skirt!

Little Hunting Creek said...

Super cute-and FOE on silk is brilliant! I am stealing that idea

Joy said...

Do you need to make something you dislike so you can leave it at work? hehe

The blouse is very nice - much nicer than an unworn dress.

Sigrid said...

Very nice, love the combination with the skirts. Lovely pictures too.

SEWN said...

Super cute top. Love the colors on you.

Big in Japan said...

Really nice piece and bonus points for it being a save! You'll get a lot of wear out of this one!!

Lisa said...

This top is gorgeous I love Silk. It looks especially lovely with your green skirt.

Anonymous said...

the pattern calls for a side zip. Did you install a zipper or was there enough ease to just use as a pullover?

Lisa

Melynda said...

The pattern calls for a side zipper. Is there enough ease with the silk to eliminate the zip?

Lisa

Melynda said...

The pattern calls for a side zipper. Is there enough ease to eliminate the zipper?

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Melynda, there is enough ease. I eliminated the zipper (and have added that to the text).