Thursday, February 9, 2012

Burda 7442, Knit Dress with Pannier Pockets

Burda 7442 Thumbnail

Miguelina Marina (once sold on Gilt, can't find a better reference)
Source: via Trena on Pinterest

The pannier style is a little weird and fashiony, but for some reason I love it (last seen in my Drape Drape dress of a couple years ago).  Counterintuitively, I find it flattering on a pear shape with large hips and thighs--those curves are meant to be part of the silhouette.

I love that Joann now has occasional sales on Burda envelope patterns and at the last one I picked up Burda 7442, which also comes with a jumpsuit in the envelope.  I don't think I'm going there but it's an option. 
Size 34-42

Overlap Centers Front

The bodice is meant to be fully lined, but that seemed unnecessary, so I cut it single layer.  As usual for a wrap style, I shortened the front crossover for an SBA, though I needed to shorten it even more.  As an ad hoc additional SBA, I overlapped the bodice sections about an inch more than they were drafted for--the notches in the photo mark centers front and are supposed to be lined up.

Stitch Side Seam Above Pocket
The panniers/pockets are drafted as giant projections on the side of the skirt.  To sew the skirt and bodice together, you clip into the skirt's waist seam allowance where the pocket begins.  You are supposed to just leave those ends flapping, but I found it difficult to make sure they were properly caught into the waist seam so I used a narrow zigzag to join them.

Offset Seam Allowance

The seam allowances are meant to be exposed at the waist seam.  That look can work in a cotton or rayon jersey, but in a polyester print with a definite wrong side that would just be droopy and sad.  The bodice and skirt have different seam allowances at the waist, so I marked both seam allowances and joined them along that line, offsetting the upper edges.
Picot Elastic
Once it was sewn, I turned down the seam allowances and stitched them to make a casing for the waist elastic.

I found this green picot elastic at PR Weekend Montreal and was just tickled, as it is one of my colors.  It doesn't like to be sewn and I had to hand baste the whole thing in, ugh, but I think it's a nice touch at the bodice, especially at that crossover.

You can also see the stitched in elastic casing on this shot.

Tack Pocket in place
Because of fabric limitations, I had to shorten the pocket/pannier extension several inches.  I suspect you'd have this problem even if the pockets are full size, but mine did not want to stay put.

I put on the dress, tucked in the pockets to what seemed the optimal place, and pinned.  I took a few hand tacks at the pin to keep the pocket in place.


This is a fun pattern.  I realized after I started laying it out that my fabric was a border print.  I didn't have enough of it to be very strategic about my layout (centering the turquoise motifs in the middle of the skirt, rather than the side), but I think the somewhat jester-y final result fits the style of the dress.  I was able to cut the back to center that large medallion motif.

I'm not sure I'll make another of these--a little goes a long way with this style--but the bodice is incredibly flattering on me--almost makes me look boobalicious. I will be reusing it with a different skirt.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.


Aroura said...

I don't think it looks Jestery at all! I love your fabric, I think you did a marvelous job with print layout. This dress really stands out!

-E said...

I sweat that fabric. I've been avoiding these styles because of the hippiness (not hippieness) but you have inspired me. And I agree that the Burdas are the pick of the litter at JoAnn.

Clio said...

I bet you'll feel fun and fashion-y every time you wear this dress. Not sure I'd ever dare to wear a pannier style dress, but you carry it off with great panache.

Mary said...

This is a wonderful style on you. The shape is really flattering and I love the slight fashion edginess (?) it gives. I do not think I could carry this off, but you certainly are rocking this dress!

Venus de Hilo said...

Fun dress! I love how you placed the pattern motifs and colors. Great looking and apeears so comfortable to wear, can't beat that combo of effects!

CGCouture said...

This looks fun and comfortable. An excellent combination if I do say so myself. :-)

Lori said...

Very cute dress, the fabric placement is great.

urkye said...

This dress is beautiful! Very good pattern:)

Louise said...

That's a great result. I'm yet to make something from that sort of material, but you've made it work so well.

ErinnB said...

I am not usually a fan of the pannier dress but have to say that I like this on you.

meli88a said...

Not only does your dress look awesome, you tights are a perfect match. How do you do it?

Mrs. Micawber said...

It's very flattering and very reminiscent of the early nineteen-teens. (Paul Poiret comes to mind.) I really like that silhouette and the pegged look to the skirt.

(Loved the "almost boobalicious" remark.)

Karin said...

I hated the line drawing, but I love it on you! I have a wild print that I am thinking would look great made up as this dress. Feeling very inspired! Thanks!

Lisette M said...

Super cute! You are right one would think this style would not work on a pear, but it does! Very flattering on you.

sewing spots said...

Very cute dress--love the fabric!

McVal said...

That is really cute! I can totally see myself wearing something like that... Especially in a knit like that. Adorable!

Anonymous said...

Wide hips ? saddlebags ? WHERE ? this lovely, unusual dress is really flattering to your figure ! a success !

Audrey said...

You are so right about the style being very flattering, which I would never have expected with all the fabric in the hip area. Of course the print is fantastic too and in colors that look wonderful on you.

kathy said...

"Counterintuitively, I find it flattering on a pear shape with large hips and thighs"
If you hadn't said it, I would have gone to the grave thinking this style would never look good on real people.
Amazing as always!
You were totally rocking the border print.

Greengirl said...

Before I read your blog I was on the edge of burdaholicism, I am now full blown. I admire your creativity and even more your adventure and guts to reach out (pants, lol) I will be following you, I look forward to future Burda/Vogue fashion!

Anonymous said...

Love the colors. They are so fun and elegant.

karin said...

So fun! Nice with the pantyhose too!

Noile said...

Your version is MUCH nicer than the one on Burda's envelope, and your dress is a whole lot more flattering and attractive on you than on Burda's model. Nice job! Love the fabric, too -- that turquoise is wonderful on you and the pattern adds a lot of character.

(Boy, this new pop-up comment screen is a pain. I'm beginning to actively hate Blogger!)

Melinda said...

I love this style. Very flattering, great fabric and an unusual but not too crazy style. It's a winner :)