Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Burda 11-2009-120, Square Pocket A Line Skirt

Burda 11-2009-120 Thumbnail

Since biking became so much easier with the introduction of Capital Bikeshare (one way trips! no locking up!) my clothing needs have changed rather drastically. Where I had been adopting a pencil skirt silhouette and have long eschewed the A line skirt as unflattering to my pear shape, I am now having to make the switch to skirts with volume so I can safely put my foot down for balance while stopped at red lights (one can manage getting onto a bike in a fitted skirt, it's the stopping without falling over that's impossible).

I had seen Burda 11-2009-120 a couple times--both Amanda and Elizabeth have made it--and I thought it might be a good biking skirt.

The fabric is from The Carol Collection.  I cut into it for the under-collar and facing of my Vogue 8307 Armani-style coat



Cut Lining Smaller than Pocket
The pockets are lined and then topstitched onto the skirt, leaving the upper edge loose to create the belt loop.  Luckily, the forest green color of the Vera Wang silk/rayon satin Fabric.com was selling in January 2010 was a great match for the fabric.

To make sure the lining wouldn't show, I trimmed a scant 1/8 inch off the edges of the lining other than the very top edge that lines up with the waistband.  You can see on the pocket that hasn't been pressed how this causes the pocket to balloon because the two pieces are not the same size--the lining is slightly smaller. (More photos illustrating this in the album.)

I always like to press from the wrong side for things like this, so that I can roll the seam and see a tiny edge of the fashion fabric peeking out from down below.  Then press.  You can see that despite the size difference it presses flat.


One Large Pleat in Lining


The instructions for the lining have you cut the front piece minus the pleats. I felt that would defeat the purpose of the skirt--without the pleats the A is not very wide and might not be enough room for biking. I cut the lining the same size as the front skirt, and just did one large inverted pleat rather than two. The lining--also from the Carol Collection--is quite thin and doesn't add bulk to the project.
Waist Facing and Lining






The waist is faced with the same Vera Wang satin as I used for the pocket.

To insure that the fit remained consistent (as the wool is a rather loose weave) I stabilized waistband with ribbon as I did here.  I also interfaced both the outer waistband and the facing, the wool with a heavier interfacing and the facing with a lighter.


Pocket Closeup






The details on this stood out better with topstitching, so the pockets, tabs, and waistband are all topstitched.  I just love the shape of this pocket!  It's such a clever little detail with the built in belt loop.

Pleat Topstitching






To make sure the center front double inverted pleats sits properly and to emphasize the feature, I topstitched the edges of the pleat.  At the hem, I marked and pressed and then topstitched with the hem turned up in place.  It keeps the pleats nice and crisp.

FrontVintage Front


I took a risk with the length of the skirt, as it is hemmed below the knee.  This is a challenging length for me, as I am short.  It can really only be worn with boots, which is somewhat limiting, but it is not a skirt that will look right in Spring or Summer anyway.

I think it came out well and I really like the details and the topstitching. 

It is a good complement to my vintage fabric Burda 09-2007-120 tie neck blouse.  I feel so very 70s, though I am no rival for the queen of 70s, Sewspicious Minds!

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

42 comments:

Debbie O' said...

This skirt is really flattering on you. As always, thanks for sharing your your blog.

McVal said...

What a great skirt! Good job on it.

Sara Noemi said...

I like how you kept a true a-line by cutting the lining with the darts. Seems like a bit more work but totally worth it. Very biker-friendly! Will you make another one of lighter fabric for summer?

puu said...

i think you were really smart to pair the a-line with boots, and that eliminates all of the challenges. overall it's a great color, interesting design details, and more flattering than you give yourself credit for :-) it looks great!

Seraphinalina said...

Love the skirt. It's really flattering and those pockets are a great detail.

Lisette M said...

This is a great skirt. I made it and had some issues with the pockets but I like it so much that I will make it again.

Melanie said...

I really like the color you chose for this skirt! It's been on my radar for a while and your version is inspiring me to make it too!

Melissa said...

That looks really nice on you! I have had that traced for some time and need to make time to make it. I've loved it since the magazine was delivered to my doorstep in 2009.

Clio said...

I think it looks great - I don't see any challenge! And I bet it's great for biking.

LisaB said...

You have great timing! This skirt is next in my queue. The fabric is prepped and the magazine is opened to this pattern. I just need to trace.

The skirt is very flattering on you, especially with the boots. It's so nice to see this skirt worn by a pear shape. I had doubts about it (hence my hesitance to trace) but feel more confident now!

Debbie Cook said...

Very flattering (and practical)!

You had asked about the Powerdry on my blog. Unfortunately, it's been a stash inhabitant for years so I really don't have a source.

Adelaide B said...

I have been thinking about making this skirt for awhile now. Love the pattern and LOVE the fabric you used.

Amanda S. said...

Great skirt! The one I made several years ago is too big now. You just reminded me how much I love this design and need to make another one.

Rachel in Edinburgh said...

What a great, fit for purpose skirt. Well done

Lori said...

fantastic skirt, I like the style and length on you.

Lindsay said...

Sorry to disagree with your thoughts, but this really looks great on you, I think it's incredibly flattering! I'm not sure whether I have this issue of Burda, but I'm going now to check as this is really lovely, love the pockets with tab detail - fabulous!

liza jane said...

Groovy! It is very 70's, in a good way. I like the longer length with boots, too, but I can't rock it any other way.

Uta said...

What a great skirt, I must also look up this issue! Bike-friendly skirts are needed here as well; I dislike feeling uncomfortable or unstable on my bike, and I don't do a lot of really full skirts. This is a great solution!

Carol said...

I like it. This is another example of a pattern I skimmed over in the magazine, but on a real person I like it. I like the pocket details and I love the fabric you've chosen. It's a great winter skirt and I can see one of these in my future.

lsaspacey said...

See, there's nothing wrong with an A-line skirt on you!

This looks fabulous, from the fit, to the color(!), to the style. I also love how this makes me think of Barbara Stanwyck's riding "skirts" on Big Valley. Wait, do you even know what I'm talking about, are you too young? It was a western tv show in the 60's; however, I watched it in syndication on Saturday mornings when I was a kid. Great job!

Kelley said...

While I do love a good straight skirt on you, I think this a-line skirt is super flattering. And it's a gorgeous pattern with fabulous details. I love how you've styled it, too.

I'm impressed that you ride a bike in a skirt at all. I'm too scared and only ever ride in pants.

AllisonC said...

Oh I love it, the interesting pocket detail really stands out especially with the black belt, very cool!

Faye Lewis said...

Wonderful skirt. Love that fabric.

Sue said...

Great skirt - slim-line enough to be flattering and so practical and smart with the pleats and pockets!

knitmachinequeen (KMQ) said...

Great skirt! TFS.

MushyWear said...

I really like this skirt on you. It's a great color and functional too! It's always fun to have an unexpected pop of color in the lining when you can get away with it.

Lynn said...

It looks fabulous with the polka dots!

LinB said...

Oh, I do love a split skirt! This is indeed a throwback to the 1970s: the good part of the 1970s. It should prove to be a real workhorse in your wardrobe. Think about doing one in a heavy linen for summertime, in a cream or ecru. You won't have to line it, and it will absorb/disperse a great deal of ... "perspiration"? "feminine glow"? ... well, let me just write the ugly word "sweat" here. The wide legs will also aid in air circulation. The style of the skirt is entirely professional, with the addition of a blazer.

Reethi said...

What a great skirt, and a great color on you!

Karin said...

Below the knee works here, and what a beautiful colour of teal!

kbenco said...

It looks excellent as a business worthy cycling friendly skirt. I love the pocket/button loop detail.

Sue said...

Wow, an extremely flattering skirt on you.

Sew Ducky said...

You did a fantastic job, and I love the pocket detail on this. Always impressive work.

A Sewn Wardrobe said...

This skirt looks so well made. It makes your waist look tiny!

Paola said...

I think A lines look good on you, and I love this skirt.

meli88a said...

This looks very good on you. I have looked at this design often and wondered how it would look on a petite woman... now i know, it looks great!

senaSews said...

Nice skirt. As i'm small as well i know your concerns about the length. But it looks really nice on you.

SewJourn said...

I have to say this is one of the nicest winter skirts I've seen. It looks fabulouse on you and you chose a wonderful color!

Linda said...

I think this skirt looks great on you! Love the color and like how you can easily mix the style top with this.

Susan said...

Your skirt looks great. I really need to look into finding this pattern.

Claire S. said...

A great winter skirt - love it !

Sigrid said...

Love the combination with boots and black top especially.