Friday, December 30, 2011

Burda 09-2010-111 High-Neck Wrap Blouse

Burda 09-2010-111 Thumbnail

I fell in love with the Burda 09-2010-111 wrap blouse as soon as I got the magazine.  It only took me a year and change to get to it, ahem.

I first did a wearable muslin out of this plaid silk dupioni from The Carol Collection (which somehow didn't make it into the photo of all the fabric, but I'm positive that's where it's from).  I had it in mind for a different pattern, but when I pre-washed it--and thank goodness I pre-wash silk by hand--the bleeding was more like hemorrhaging.  It used to be a very crisp plaid with no white parts, now it's more like tie-dyed into vaguely plaid shapes.  So glad I pre-washed!!!!


Collar Pleats

It's a fairly simple pattern, if a bit fussy.  You have to mark pleats at the neckline and a dart near the hemline.

After the first version, I considered whether I should sew the collar pleats after the center back seam was sewn.  I decided to follow directions, but as you can see my pleats are embarrassingly offset.  Well, I mean, not *that* embarrassing--I don't think anybody actually cares--but still, offset.




Mark and Interface Dart
I like the button and loop closure on the original pattern, but was skeptical that it would work for me.  It would be a flattering look for a rectangle or a large bust, but a small-busted pear such as I requires waist definition and I figured I would need to do a tie.  I got the project to the point where it could be pinned together to try on and decided, yep, I need the tie.

I planned to sew the tie into the dart, so I reinforced it with interfacing, cutting out a triangle of interfacing just inside the dart seam lines so it wouldn't be too stiff.  I marked the dart on the right side with tailor's tacks, and then drew a chalk line down the center of the dart.
Stitch Tie Into Dart

I constructed the tie--I had to piece it for the plaid version so I amused myself by calling it "madras"--and then pinned the tie about 1.25" down from the dart apex and just to the side of the marked center line; it doesn't matter which side you choose, but it does need to be next to the center line rather than at it so the dart will fold properly.

I stitched the tie in place, and then stitched the dart, enclosing the tie.

The sleeves as drafted (on this version of it) are meant to be overly long and then scrunched up with a tie.  Several reviewers mentioned that the tie was impractical and kept dragging through food and dishwater.  Just as well, because I didn't have enough of either fabric to make the really long sleeves.  For the plaid version, I finished the edge of the sleeve with self bias tape, and made a bishop sleeve with a cuff for the green version.




Plaid Front
Burda 09-2010-111 Green

The pattern works much better in the fluid olive georgette than the rather stiff dupioni.  I would never recommend it for anything like a cotton, and I wouldn't make it again in dupioni.

I like the blouse enough to make it twice, obviously, but it is not my One True Wrap Top pattern. The drape on the green version is gorgeous, but it is a little fussy to keep closed, and the style is not amenable to a strategically placed snap.

There is also more fabric billowing under the arms than is flattering for me, I think.  I always feel self-conscious about that because to me it's like a giant neon sign saying "SMALL BUST HERE.  BOOBS TOO SMALL TO PUSH OUT THE FABRIC PROPERLY."  But the style is not really amenable to an SBA, which would completely change the look anyway.

I'm glad I finally have a replacement for my beloved McCall 5314 green silk wrap blouse.  I didn't know I needed a broad back adjustment when I made that and the seams are going to burst if it's worn again.  :(


All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

===============================

Sertyan asks:


I have been reading about many SBAs in your post and would love how to do them, I read about 'narrowing' the dart. How do you narrow a dart?

I have made a post with all my different SBA methods explained and illustrated here.  Hope that helps!

40 comments:

ReadyThreadSew said...

(You've accidentally put 2011 instead of 2010 in the post title.)

I love the olive green version. I wish I knew why it was that other people notice these lovely patterns in Burda that just seem to pass me by. I have been through all my magazines a gazillion times, but over and over again a blogger will post something gorgeous that she has made that I never noticed.

I now have to go and see which pattern I have picked out of that issue of the magazine for my 2012 challenge and see if this blouse might be a better pick.

Irene said...

These blouses are absolutely gorgeous!

Karin said...

I sewed this in printed jersey back in 2011. I am also a small busted pear. It was OK, I made sure there was negative ease. But it was never *great* for me. My version has already gone in the charity box! I stupidly made the strings that flap at your wrists and get wet and dirty every time you eat or wash your hands!
Your versions look, much, much better. The waist tie is an improvement for sure, and omitting the wrist tassels will save your sanity. Your olive green version is to die for.

SEWN said...

You cracked me up with "my One True Wrap Top". Too funny. I love the olive green version, but totally understand if the drape is too "high-maintenance", that it might be annoying. Happy new year!

gwensews said...

Those are wonderful wrap blouses. They would look equally as well with skirts or pants. Oh, and love your "Joan" dress in your last post!

a little sewing said...

The waist tie is perfect! I love it and you look just beautiful in this style. (Your waist is soooo slim, show it off often :)

KID, MD said...

I love them both!! I like the structure of the dupioni and the drape of the georgette. Amazing what a different look you get with the same pattern. The ties are genius.

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

Both blouses look great, very sophisticated style.

spottedroo said...

Love both blouses! What is the dark blue skirt you are wearing with the olive one? Speaking of wraps, I really like the wrap top from this year's november Burda (though it's designed for knits, not wovens)— very flattering for a small bust (mine anyway).

Thread OvMetal said...

Both blouses look phenomenal!

I like how the back looks tied, in photos on flickr - very flattering.

I, too, am a small busted pear (at least compared to TV).

Bravo!

T. Sedai said...

They look great, but I really love the one in olive green. Very lovely.

Uta said...

The green blouse is very elegant! I love the drape and I don't think it calls any negative attention to the bust at all. The sleeves also suit this style very well. I wouldn't have thought of this pattern because of the lack of waist definition. How smart to put in a tie!

M Kate said...

The olive georgette is just gorgeous. Don't worry about the billowy sleeves - the flow of the lightweight fabric totally works and doesn't look bulky or camouflage-y (?)! Good call on the sleeve finish, too; I would be annoyed by the ties. This pattern is on my list as well.

Mikhaela said...

I'm super into the bright blue skirt with your new plaid silk blouse... they go really well together.

Venus de Hilo said...

Both versions are stunning!

Adelaide B said...

I love both of these blouses. There are super flattering and sophisticated.

Amanda S. said...

Ooh, love the green drapey version. I totally know what you mean about the neon sign. Wearing blousy tops makes me so self conscious and flat looking.

MAD14kt said...

Well done!

Carol said...

I like this top and am considering it for my SWAP. The addition of the tie is inspired! Thank you for providing inspiration this past year!

kbenco said...

Adding the tie looks terrific,but the bishop sleeves on the drapey version are just beautiful. Terrific blouses.

Audrey said...

Wrap style blouses always look so nice on you. I actually like the blue plaid one and the coordinating skirt the best.

Faye Lewis said...

Your blouse looks dressy and expensive.

Claire S. said...

Love both versions ! That pattern jumped out at me too - maybe one of these days, I'll actually make one :-)

montanachic said...

I don't think it looks to baggy on the olive version. I think it is perfect. You look sooooo chic, sophisticated and expensive!

Mrs. Micawber said...

You're so lucky that you can wear the high wrap style. I have the opposite bust situation to yours, and a style like this on me would shout "How the Mighty Have Fallen".

Honestly, the drape on the olive one looks fantastic - boxy and a bit 80's-ish in a good way, especially with the belt. Very classy.

Anonymous said...

You look gorgeous in the olive; love the idea to add the cuff to the sleeve and the tie! Nice job!

emadethis said...

Love love the mustard tights, and I'm glad to know that you have to add waist definition for this pattern. I've been avoiding it because I've been thinking that it looked a little boxy. Thanks for the ideas for the ties. I love how the georgette version flows.

A Sewn Wardrobe said...

The olive version is especially stunning. So elegant.

Sweet Tea said...

That SMALL BOOBS comment was hilarious, but I think that the drape of the garment is absolutely gorgeous. Unless the pics are deceptive, I would leave it as is. Perfect. And happy New Year!

Vicki said...

Happy new year! Both blouses are lovely. I didn't realise that pattern came down to the hips. The line drawing looks more like the waist and I thought you would have trouble wearing it. Well they look very wearable on you. Love the ties too.

MushyWear said...

I especially love how elegant the olive blouse looks...so delicate and flowy. The plaid one is pretty too, in its own way. Happy New Year!

sewducky said...

I think both versions came out very well and are very flattering on you. The color choices were also spot on, too.

Sigrid said...

Happy new year Trena.
You made this pattern work for you, the olive is perfect, the drape makes the difference. I tried this pattern but it's a ufo. Seeing yours makes me think I should have a look what was wrong with it.

Nethwen said...

I like the green one. I think the drape looks perfect on you, especially combined with the waist tie and the tight sleeve cuffs. You look elegant and classy, but still comfortable.

Clio said...

Oh, the green one really looks luxe. If anything, I think the drapiness and volume flatters you.

Isabelle said...

I love both of your blouses - and love both whole outfits.

Isabelle said...

... Et bonne année !! :)

helenkosings said...

I simply adore your blog! I frequently laugh out loud at you dry witticisms, and I used to live in the DC area15 years ago, so I know some of the places that you mention here and on your other blog. Keep up the wonderful work! Us lurkers do so appreciate it. :o)

Siebensachen said...

Hi,
I like your greenish version of the blouse a lot. It really looks chic on you specially with the tie. I myself made this blouse quite a while ago out of a thin but rather stiff linen - a disaster. I trashed it. After seeing your piece, I'd like to give it another try with a jersey maybe.
Like your blog!
Greets from Germany
Siebensachen

Ruth said...

I've made this twice too, once in Jersey and once in a light synthetic georgette (navy with polka dots). I like the tie you added but even without it, mine looks very shpely at the waist. I keep coming back to this pattern. I also have some silk I may make it in. I think it's dupioni but I have washed it a couple of times and it's quite soft now.