Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Burda 06-2011-111, Adventure Shorts

Burda 06-2011-111 Thumbnail

I have not owned shorts for many years. I mean, I have the old denim shorts I use for painting and really dirty chores, but nothing I'd wear in public. Even my exercise shorts are years out of date and therefore worn only in extremely dire (90+ degrees) circumstances. But when I planned a hiking vacation, I figured it was finally time to bit the bullet.

I knew Burda had been publishing some cute shorts styles, so I went through back issues and found Burda 06-2011-111 in the Brigitte Bardot feature. While shorts are not the first thing that come to me when I think of Ms. Bardot, these are nice shorts. I like the side zip (no scary fly situation), back darts, and front released darts. Pleated pants are always a gamble, but in this case that front released dart is small and looks nice rather than Mom Jeans.

Back Closeup I cut the shorts straight off the pattern sheet in a 36 at the waist and a 38 at the hip with no alterations other than lengthening. The inseam is meant to be 4 inches; mine is 7. Actually, that's not true. Given my experience with Burda pajama pants, I added 1.5 inches to the top of the back at center back, tapering to nothing at the side seam, to accommodate the booty. But when the shorts were put together it turned out I didn't need the extra height and I cut it off to the originally drafted line.

I was pretty impressed with the fit, given that I made no alterations. The back crotch fits well. The front crotch is slightly long, at least I assume that's the proper description when the back crotch hugs the curves (with comfortable wearing ease) but the front crotch hangs down about an inch too low.

When I saw the back photo I was slightly less pleased. I mean, for the adventure shorts I think the fit is totally fine, but if I were making real pants, which I am considering doing this winter, I would want to deal with that folding that goes toward the inner thigh. Wrinkle-reading gurus?

Stabilize Top of Waistband with Ribbon The fabric is something I found in stash. I have no idea how long it's been in there, but I'm certain I've had it at least five years and likely much longer. I have no idea where I got it or how much I paid, nor the fiber content. It is a really interesting fabric--it's a double layer fabric and when you look closely there are rows of tiny pinholes spaced fairly close together. They obviously have something to do with how the layers are kept together.

While the fiber content is a mystery, it is a natural fiber according to the burn test and I think it is probably a linen or linen blend based on how it behaves. Whatever it is, despite the double layer it is a fluid fabric that I did not trust to stay stable, so I stitched a length ribbon at the upper edge of the waistband, where the outer and inner waistbands are joined at the top. The waistband did not stretch while wearing it during fairly strenuous activity on the trip.

I realized while stabilizing the waistband that I probably should have stabilized the crotch as well. However, as I mentioned in my Ecuador post, these were Adventure Shorts in more ways than one! I took my sewing machine into the shop several weeks ago and borrowed a vintage machine from a friend. The machine was not enjoying sewing through all the layers of the shorts, so I fired up the treadle machine I bought for my birthday a couple years ago. The topstitching on the waistband is too bad to show--the treadle has incredibly heavy presser foot pressure and it created diagonal wrinkles between the upper and lower edges of the waistband. The treadle got the job done, but I did not want to try to get too fancy and go back into the crotch seam to add a stabilizer.


Simulated Hiking Burda 06-2011-111 It turns out that shorts are not as bad on me as I feared. I do not think I will be adopting them as any kind of uniform, but for occasional outdoor activities they totally work.

I think I will use this pattern again if shorts are still in style next summer. There's a limit to how short I can wear them, given the extreme whiteness of my legs, but I think I could take a couple inches off the inseam and be both stylish and flattering.

This review is a little late in the year to be useful for the Northern Hemisphere (though shorts with tights and boots can be cute), but Aussies looking for summer patterns should have at it!

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

18 comments:

Samina said...

The shorts are very cute, but I love the action shots of you posing in them!

M Kate said...

I'll have to try those. I only wear shorts (about your length) on hikes anyway, also due to white legs ;-). These turned out really well in the longer length, and I also love the side zip idea and those pleats. Looking good on the go!

McVal said...

Cute cute cute! Ooh! And I have that Burda issue! If only it were warmer so I'd feel like I could spare the time to sew shorts right now. I'll tuck this idea aside until Spring I think...
But they look really good on you!

Cindy said...

Adventure looks like your middle name! Those are serious boots. And I love the necklace with the outfit...accessorizing is vital!!

Sarez said...

I like 'em and it's perfect timing for me 'cos I'm looking for shorts! Re: Inner thigh wrinkles - Generally it's due to incorrect crotch extension length (too short) and because of that, it doesn't allow the fabric in the back of the thigh to hang freely. Generally speaking there are 4 foundations to pants drafting; jeans, slacks, trousers and cullottes. * please note these are drafting terms not fashion terms * Each one of those foundations fit the rear slightly differently and have different qty's of fabric for the thigh. As you can imagine, jeans hug the rear and the thighs, slacks slight cup the rear before dropping down for the thigh and trousers drop straight down from the point of buttock. At a guess, I'd say that these shorts were based on a trouser draft and are trying to drop down from your pt of buttock but there isn't enough horizon length in the crotch to allow it. You probably need to add somewhere between 1-2cm to the crotch extension. The crotch extension is that little piece that goes to a point where it connects with the inside seam and front piece. Oops sorry! I've written an essay! I hope this makes sense.
Burda, IMHO does the best pants draft.

Venus de Hilo said...

Great shorts, cute pics!

I don't own any shorts at all, and wear a chino skirt for easy day-hikes, but if I ever need a more adventurous wardrobe I'll aim for something like these.

kathy said...

Well - you can't expect the freckles to cover the white if you don't hike up the length occasionally.

MushyWear said...

Welcome back Trena and great job taking on short's making! These turned out just right for your adventures. I like the longer length too and the cargo pocket.

Sue said...

What a beautiful location for a photo shoot of your great shorts! I am planning some sewing over our Xmas break so will go and have a look at this pattern. Perfect for our current warm weather and the garden.

Karin said...

Those are pretty cute for hiking shorts!
I never wear shorts now except at the beach, in Florida, etc. But, I have been toying with the idea of a pair of wool one's worn in winter with tights and ankle boots. Not sure if I'll jump off the deep end or not.

Linda said...

Great job with these shorts.

Butterfly said...

I love the shots! Maybe you should also add a bit of fabric to the back waist band? It looks like the shorts are under a little to much stress there

catspec said...

Those are some groovy shorts! :) Look comfy and very well sewn!
m:)

Sew-4-Fun said...

Great shorts! Definitely perfect for hiking and being seen in public.

P.S. I hope this came out right. LOL! I said everything in the nicest, complimentary way.

Kristy said...

ha ha love your action shot! I too am not a fan of shorts, yet find myself making (and wearing them in public) because sometimes skirts and dresses just don't work at the playground.... I like the fit you achieved at the waistband with these, I'll definately have to try them out.

Cennetta said...

You are a true adventurer. Welcome back. The shorts look great. I could use a pair or two.

Bobbi Bullard said...

I think shorts are generally just not that flattering. Having said that, these are pretty cute. They fit you great.

cidell said...

I had that same slight gathering under the seat on my first pair. On my second pair, I scooped out 1/2 inch from the crotch and that seemed to eliminate it.