Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Burda 08-2008-108, Raglan Sleeved Mock Turtleneck Knit Top

Burda 08-2008-108 Thumbnail

I was at G Street Fabrics on Saturday for the totally innocent purpose of attending Fashion Sewing Club and picking up my serviced machine (woohoo!  you cannot imagine how I missed it).  Well, the classroom for FSC is over by the $2.97/yd table so I was practically forced to look on it.  I had been quite unsatisfied with my top options for the Tweed Ride and then I saw this fabric which could not have been more what I was looking for than had I designed the textile myself.  I love, love the mustard color, and the sheer mesh with polka dots was just so appealing to me that I snapped it up.

I knew I wanted a high-necked top--it just seems part of the style--which is not something I normally go for.  I went through my back issues and settled on Burda 08-2008-108, a mock turtleneck knit tee with raglan cap sleeves. I was at first unconvinced about the raglan sleeves--with my narrow, sloping shoulders they are not always a great look for me--but in the end I just love the curved lines of them!
Collar Inside
The collar is one of those draft-your-own pieces; Burda gives you the dimensions and then sends you on your way.  I made a pattern piece based on Burda's instructions, and when I went to sew on the collar it was 4 inches too short.  Totally weird.  It's probable that I was taking seam allowances that were a little too small, but not a total of 4 inches too small.   When finished, the neckline and upper back were way too big.  I really don't know what I did there.

I interlined the collar with a piece of bias cut white silk organza to ensure that it stood up straight.  I was pleased with how invisible it is.  I originally cut the bias piece as wide as the collar so it would be doubled when the collar was folded down, but that turned out to be a little too much, so I cut the piece the height from the seamline to the foldline.

Transparent Flat
As drafted, the collar is meant to be 2 inches tall, but that is waaaaay to tall for my short neck, as it turns out.  As you can see, I turned it under and hand-stitched it to shorten.  The finished height is  now 1 inch.

I used self-fabric loops and some buttons I already had in stash that turned out to be a perfect match for the closure, rather than a zipper as suggested by Burda (my fabric wasn't very stretchy--in a more elastic material no closure would be needed).

I have been really into the idea of visible seaming in translucent or transparent fabric lately, and I just love the way the raglan curves at the sleeve show up in the wearing.

I can also recommend transparent fabric as a great way to muslin--I could see exactly how closely the shirt fit when wearing it without a tank top underneath.

Cape Open

The cape is coincidentally from the same magazine, 08-2008-101. I made it three years ago, and am just going to acknowledge that I will never review it.  But it was a really fun addition to my outfit and I finally got some wear out of it!

I was so happy to find the perfect fabric and the perfect pattern *and* finish the top the evening before the ride.  I was just delighted with my outfit!




Front Closeup
This pattern comes in a 34 so I didn't have to grade, plus it's on the old pattern sheets.  Heaven!  My only gripe with the pattern is that I wish it came with full sleeves, rather than cap sleeves.  I really like the fit of this top on me and would like to make one with long sleeves for layering, but I will have to do some drafting to get sleeves that set into the entire armscye.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here

28 comments:

Nettie said...

You look so pretty in these pics! The yellow color of the top and your hat are really flattering on you. I've been wanting a little sheer top like this forever, this is such a good version.

McVal said...

Adorable top and cape! I love how your collar interfacing is invisible!

Rachel said...

I LOVE your entire outfit!!! I wish I was brave enough to wear a hat.

Aroura said...

Love that fabric, sheer and such a pretty color on you. It really adds to the entire outfit for your tweed ride, but will look beautiful any day. Burda has funny sizing, lol. I'm glad you got it worked out. :)

Karin said...

Your entire outfit is really cute! And perfectly on theme. Your sheer mustard top is also perfectly on trend for right now- nice one!

Amanda S. said...

Love it! LOVE the fabric. I would have totally bought that myself. Mustard looks really nice on you.

Clio said...

Very cute top! And great accessorizing (hat, cameo...)

Lisette M said...

Such a pretty top! I have to be careful with raglan sleeves too, but I do love them!

CGCouture said...

So pretty! I REALLY need this issue of the Burda magazine. There are apparently a lot of great patterns in it.

Crystal said...

I love your sheer top. What a fun event to participate in.

Carol said...

Mustard looks great on you and I love the fabric - I would never have thought to buy it because I wouldn't know what to do with it. I've actually been thinking about this very top for my SWAP so your timing is perfect. I love your glasses. I just ordered two new pairs in a 2 for 1 deal last week and I thought of you as I chose a couple of bright pairs to match various outfits. Thanks for so much inspiration!

Uta said...

I wasn't interested in this top pattern at all; until I saw your version! The fabric and the loops and buttons totally make the look. So pretty!

AllisonC said...

Fantastic, it would never have occurred to me to make this top in a sheer mesh fabric but it totally works. I also love your addition of button and loop fastenings, very elegant.

Faye Lewis said...

Too cute!

montanachic said...

Another home run! I love it and I want it.

Vicki said...

Great outfit! And making that top in a mesh is a fantastic idea. Looks very cool.

Eugenia said...

I really love this! It looks so pretty and so beautifully made. When I saw your photograph I loved the back closure and wondered why I hadn't noticed that in the magazine. Then I realised that you had designed it instead of a zipper - that's a very nice feature - it makes the top look very special!

Lynn said...

You look fabulous...even a cameo!

Wag Doll said...

Oh this top is gorgeous - the colour is lovely. And I adore your cape!

Tanit-Isis said...

Beautiful! You're right, the fabric is perfect and I love the style---simple but unique. Your alterations to the collar were bang-on, too.

/sigh, I wish I had years of back-issues of Burda...

kathy said...

I love how those seams set off the blouse so well. Too gorgeous.

Sew Country Chick said...

You are such an amazing sewist and stylist! I absolutely love that cape. I will be linking my readers to your tutorial about lining a sleeveless dress without hand sewing tomorrow to help me explain lining the Collette Crepe. I want to invite you to come over to my blog on Saturday as I have a sewing linky party where you can post a photo link to your bg projects. I hope you join in!
Justine @
 Sew Country Chick

Isabelle said...

This is adorable - great pairing of pattern of fabric! I love your whole outfit.

gwensews said...

Mustard is an awesome color for redheads. I love the back of your top. (back of your top)?? Back of your blouse. And your hat. And your cape.

a little sewing said...

omg, you look aDORABLE! I especially love the touch of yellow on your glasses.

sassytinacreates said...

Lovin the cape. Seriously into capes at the moment. There is one am going to tackle at some point.

HeathersSphere said...

Undeniably a gorgeous ensemble!

SEWN said...

Wow, you look so cute. I love that top and the hat is so cute. Love it!