Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Butterick 5672, Side Pleat Knit Dress

B5672 Thumbnail

I have been looking forward to making Butterick 5672 for a while--and if you want to make it it's on sale for $2.99 through 10/9/11 as Butterick's pattern of the week (very fortuitous). Here is the much anticipated animal print dress, of the nice rayon knit I just got from Fabric Mart for $5/yd.

The fabric sewed up very nicely--actually, I've sewn up all 3 pieces of it already. It is beefy and does not seem to stretch or grow, which is amazing for a rayon. I am resigned to the possibility that it will pill fairly quickly.

Picot Elastic Trim The pattern is well designed and includes the thoughtful and unusual touch of a separate pattern for a full lining (well, a separate front pattern; the back is the same). You are meant to use the lining to finish the neckline and armscyes. However, I skipped the lining for this iteration. I just wear it with a slip.

Instead, I finished the neckline with picot elastic. I loved this look for my Burda 12-2010-105 biking top and have been looking for ways to use the technique again. I scooped an additional 1.5 inches or so out of the neckline--a crew neck is just not flattering on me. Then I just turned under the neckline and armscyes and twin needle topstitched over the elastic. Voila!

Side Pleats I skipped the zipper on this project, as it was completely unnecessary. The pattern has you put the zipper into the pleated side, which seems unnecessarily difficult and bulky to me.

The rayon has good recovery, but on the two projects I sewed for myself I had to take in the side seams by about an inch on each side to get a good fit. I don't know if it was the pattern or the fabric.

Anticipating this issue, I assembled the dress in panels. I added a center back seam to the bodice and skirt with a small swayback adjustment in the skirt (similar to this). Then I sewed the right back bodice to right back skirt, left back bodice to left back skirt, and front bodice to front skirt. Then I sewed the full length vertical seams--sides and center back. This made for easy adjusting. The biggest problem here was gaping under the arms--I assume this is a small bust issue (I made no small bust adjustment). It was also somewhat loose at the waist. Taking it in a couple inches at the side seams from armscye to high hip took care of all the problems.

B5672 Back This pattern is meant to be cut on the bias, with a straight grain knit lining. There may be some benefit to that if you are using a heavy double knit with minimal stretch, but it would have been madness in this drapey rayon. I followed the marked (bias) grainline on the front skirt, but put everything else on the straight of grain. The pattern repeat on this fabric is too small and the dark spots form stripes; you can see how the stripe runs diagonal on the front skirt. I wish I had cut it on straight of grain as well.

Unfortunately, I think the pleat detail is a lost in my print when you get more than 3 feet away, but I am definitely a fan of the pattern. The style is simple but flattering and gave a good fit (after taking it in). I like that it has a waist seam at natural waist. I will be making it again in the version with sleeves for Fall/Winter. Next version I need to move the shoulders in by 1/2 inch.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

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The Random Number Generator has chosen Aroura to receive the beige knit from my FM bundle! Please email me your postal address at t r e n a [dot] b at gmail (no spaces) and I will send it off.

32 comments:

Peg said...

I read your delightful blog via Google Reader and don't often click through to post a comment but I had to this time because I LOVE this dress on you! The fit, fabric and color is great!

knitmachinequeen (KMQ) said...

Great look. I bought this fabric also. I don't like the weight and it looks sort of washed out. Now that I see yours sewn up, I may have to rethink it. Your clothes always fit you so fabulously! TFS

countrygirlcouture said...

This dress is gorgeous! I love the print, even though it obscures some of the detail. I've discovered with rayon knits that it helps slow down the pilling if you don't put them in the dryer. If you are so motivated, washing by hand with some woolite or something would probably help immensely too, depending on how much time/effort you are able and willing to dedicate.

Victoria said...

What a SEXY number! You're looking fabulous in that animal print!

Michelle said...

Absolutely adorable! Love both the fabric and pattern!

Clio said...

Great dress! I love the picot trim - what a great touch!

Adelaide B said...

The pleat detail is really cute and looks great on. I kind of like it without the belt though. (Although i can't see the whole dress and could be completely wrong.)

June said...

I see what you mean about the stripes, but I'm doubtful that anyone (esp a non-sewer) would ever notice it. Great tip on the elastic finish - I thought that detail really makes it look polished. The pleats are a great structural element. Overall, the dress is very flattering on you!

McVal said...

Sweet! I love that side pleat! That's similar to the dress I made my daughter for the wedding, except it was more structured. I love how it's in knit and comfy.

Amanda S. said...

Very nice! I love how you finished the neck and armholes - looks very RTW. I have boycotted buying Modal or Rayon fabrics for the horribly short life they give to clothing. And I swear, EVERYTHING is made from that stuff these days.

HeathersSphere said...

Purrrr-fectly meow-velous, purrrretty lady! You achieved a fine fit!

Little Hunting Creek said...

Love your dress it looks great on you.

Stephanie said...

Wow, great fabric, great pattern, great dress! This is my favorite of everything you've posted this year. Love the picot trim, too.

I may have to break my sworn pattern-diet and get this one...

Faye Lewis said...

That's a great fitting/looking dress. Love the trimmed neckline and arms.

Kyleigh said...

Really impressed by this dress! It's extremely flattering on you and a super cute design besides. I love the trim!

Mrs. Micawber said...

I would never have noticed the stripe issue if you didn't mention it - but having paid attention to it, I think the skirt front looks good on the bias. Great trim too.

Wow. A hefty rayon knit purchased online. Who'd-a thunk it?

Amber Elayne said...

What a great dress and I'm totally hearing you about the elastic on the neckline! How incredibly cute a detail!

Also, what issue with the fabric pattern's direction? No one would know because they'd be looking at how incredible this dress looks on you!

Fa-boo-lus!!!!!!

Karin said...

I tend to shy away from animal prints, but you make it look good! Not at all "cougar-ish." I also really like your picot edge treatment. I want to try it someday.

AllisonC said...

The pleats do get a bit lost in that print, but they still give the dress a great shape. I love the picot edge finish.

Lisa said...

I love the shape of this is is so flattering on you.

Aroura said...

Very pretty dress, it is extremely figure flattering. The print is great on you!

GodsgirlT said...

Great dress! It fits you perfectly. You've styled it ever so "chic"-ly and the fabric is perfect! That's HOT!

meli88a said...

Wow. Awesome all around. Animal print, the trim, and a perfectly flat and flattering pleated bodice? Your waist looks teeny in this dress!

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redsilvia said...

That fits you great! Nice job on the adjustments. I love the print too, it's fun but not to crazy that you can't rock it at work. Great!

emadethis said...

Thanks for the review. I passed over this pattern because of the crew neck, but the side pleating is really interesting.

I like the picot elastic finish too. Where did you get the elastic?

Rose said...

That dress looks fantastic on you. I love the pleating.

Joy said...

Wow, this looks fabulous on you! I really like those pleats.

Kathy said...

That is a seriously gorgeous dress!

Joolz said...

Gorgeous dress. However, DO NOT wear it with opaque black tights. Maybe sheer black or any type of flesh colour - but definitely not opaque black. You are pale, the dress is pale, and then hard black tights simply drag the eye to the tights because they are the stongest colour.

I have your colouring (although you have a bit more colour in your skin than I do) so, although I don't understand or care about fashion at all, I can see when the colouring is off.

The dress looks fabulous on you, it just needs some paler tights/pantyhose/stockings to look perfect.

Julie

Sherril said...

Trena, I love this animal print dress. You've got the fit perfect and it's very flattering. I love watching how you've grown in the last few years in your sewing skills. You're awesome!

sertyan said...

This dress looks wonderful on you, especially the pleats on the side.