Thursday, June 2, 2011

Simplicity 4076, I Finally Make the Infamous Twist Top

S4076 Thumbnail

Simplicity 4076 has been a favorite on Pattern Review for *years.* Back at the beginning of the twist top craze I tried the Maggy London Butterick 4789 version of the twist top and it was a bust, with a huge wad of fabric below the twist. It wasn't just me, because shortly afterward I went to brunch with a friend who was wearing the Maggy London RTW version of the dress and it had the same wad. Though I've tried a couple twist variations since then, I never returned to the classic twist top.

When I was going through patterns for my bike trip, this one caught my eye. It was never available at my local Joann, and a kind sewist sent it to me (and I'm so sorry, I don't remember who).

Small Bust Adjustment Shortening

One of the multitude of PR reviewers (and I wish I could remember who to give her credit) noted that the front neckline of her top was a little gapey, just like the model photo on the envelope. Looking at the envelope, sure enough that neckline is rather suspiciously gapey. It looks like it's held in place by double stick tape over her boobs.

No Gape!

Not having boobs on which to stick double stick tape, I shortened the neckline by nearly two inches between the bust and shoulder. I twin needled over clear elastic in finishing the front neckline to ensure extra snugness. The end result is marvelous! The neckline, while low cut, is snug but doesn't pull, and is form-fitting without any hint or danger of gaping.

I added an inch to the length of this top in cutting, just because I am aiming for super long tops. In the end, I wished I had added another inch. This top appears to be quite short as drafted.

Back

I transferred the darts I had marked and drawn onto the pattern for Simplicity 2283, the yoked cowl top from a while back. The darts worked perfectly, though I had to make them even longer, almost to the neck, before I eliminated the puff at the top, and they extend into the hem allowance. I think I am eventually going to end up with a princess seam rather than back darts! I did darts here because I didn't want a CB seam, but I suppose one seam is better than two, so next time maybe I'll just do the CB seam.

I have not been doing the broad back adjustment on knits, because they stretch and are therefore not restrictive. But seeing the back view on the tops I made for this trip--the waffle weave wicking fabric from FFC does not have a ton of stretch--I see that I really need to bite the bullet and do this adjustment on anything fitted, stretch or woven.

S4076The shoulders look funny on this top, but it's because my preferred bra is a racerback; bra straps just slide right off my sloping shoulders and the racerback solves that problem. The neckline is a squidge too wide to cover the straps at the shoulders, as they are placed narrower than a regular bra. So I sewed in bra strap keepers, which artificially narrows the neckline and causes the outer edges of the shoulders to flare out and up. For the trip, I was willing to have funny looking shoulders rather than an uncomfortable bra. In real life, maybe I'll wear the regular bra. We'll see.

I'm so glad I finally got around to this pattern. With this twist top, I understand the fuss. It is flattering and fun to wear. It seems inevitable that I would finally discover it during the twilight of the twist top, but who knows, maybe I'll make another one anyway.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

19 comments:

Beth O. said...

Very cute top and a perfect color for you.
I just made the Kwik Sew 3378 pattern with long sleeves and love it. I really hope the twist top isn't in its twilight because I think it is a style that is very flattering to so many of us!

montanachic said...

It is really cute and I love the way you use color, it makes your blog so fun to read.

Adelaide B said...

I never made this top, but you kind of make me want to. Although I hate knits, so maybe not. Also, and I generally do not believe in making comments about people's bodies - good or bad, your arms are looking Michelle Obama great. You are looking very strong.

Shannon said...

I think it looks pretty darn good, and I love the green top with the orange skirt and aqua leggings. I would so wear that outfit!

RiAnge Creations. Ltd. said...

I do love this colour oh you. The fit is great. This patter has been marinating in my stash since it came out. Maybe this year...
Angela

gwen said...

Green is a good color for you. It's a nice little top. And, the dress in your previous post--love,love, love it!

Helena said...

This is a lovely top on you, both style-wise and colour-wise.

Cennetta said...

Cute top. I'm going to try this view.

catspec said...

Just great...so cute and the front is perfect...absolutely great idea to use that elastic. Very flattering.

melissa said...

This looks great, and SO much better than your average exercise gear. But I'm confused as to why it's "infamous"? Your review sounds totally positive!

marysews said...

Well, now I like this top because it doesn't seem to have gaziga-wads of fabric in the twist. Your neckline adjustment worked out well, too!

Mrs. Micawber said...

The nice thing about making your own clothes, I think, is that even if a fashion is in its "twilight" you can still get something out of it, and use the bits that work for you in other custom garments. I totally understand the sloping shoulder/bra strap issue!

liza jane said...

I love all the colors in your outfit!

Beth Laske-Miller said...

I have the same bra issue! I finally took one entire afternoon & a pile of regular bras that slid off my shoulders; I detached the straps from where they attach to the bra band in back, scooted each strap toward the center back about an inch & reattached. Did the trick!

Eugenia said...

I keep thinking I should make a twist top. Yours looks great - I love that beautiful bright shade of lime green, especially with the orange skirt!

laura said...

So weird, I just wore a shirt from this pattern yesterday. I don't have a problem with the front (VS Wonderbra takes care of that!) but I do have a lot of gaping in the upper back near the neck so I ended up pinching a bit out of that area. When I was cleaning houses I went to the Goodwill and bought a bunch of men's XL T-shirts, whacked them apart and made new workshirts for myself with this pattern. Very comfortable for a sweaty job!

Maja said...

Your top looks great! And I love the colour combination you're wearing!

SEWN said...

Cute top. I love that color on you!

Katharine said...

Isn't it a winner on you? You look great. how can looking great go out of style? But alas, fashion has marched on a couple steps since the twist craze, unfortunately.

I have a twist maternity dress to wear for another 10-12 weeks, and two postpartum twist designs in planning because the bunch of fabic camouflages the fourth trimester of pg. Ironically I was just thinking this week if you had made the famous NL knit dress with a front twist overlay because it looks flattering on pears and/or tummy curves, and knit dresses are right up yur alley.