Friday, December 10, 2010

Burda 01-2009-112, Corset Waist Pencil Skirt

Burda 01-2009-112 Thumbnail

I planned to make this in the Spring as part of a self-imposed endless combination of red, pink, and orange, but quickly discovered that one cannot wear a high-waisted pencil skirt in the heat. Major sweattage is soooo not Mad Men. I was glad when the Endless Combinations contest got me to make this for Fall/Winter instead. I got the fabric from Kashi at Metro Textiles in March for $5/yd (I bought a yard and a half). I have no idea what the fiber content is--I don't think it's entirely poly but a good portion of it is, along with a generous dose of lycra. I was hoping this would keep it from wrinkling, but no such luck. It is so hot pink. It is like 80s flourescent pink, before we called it "neon." Hot. Pink. So hot pink that I wasn't sure if it was work appropriate just because of the color. I wore it anyway, of course.

I really liked similar Burda 03-2009-104 high-waisted pencil skirt with a seamed waistband--I made it twice!--so I've had this one on the list for quite some time. There have been some gorgeous versions made, very inspiring.

Swayback AdjustmentThe only adjustment I made to this was for swayback. The center back skirt and waistband pieces create, as per Burda's usual nonsense, a completely flat line. The spine is not built that way, even for people without a swayback. I lined up the center back waistband piece with the skirt piece at the seamlines and drew in a curved line. In sewing, I ended up taking a little bit more width out of the waistband at around the middle of the piece, and I think I also should have taken a small swayback tuck.

Other than the flat back, the draft on the skirt is very good--the corset pieces fit together nicely, and the side back seam on the waistband matches perfectly with the back dart--but the proposed finishing is dreadful. Burda just gives you a facing strip for the waistline and that's it. Terrible! Like everyone else, I fully faced the waistband, using the waistband pattern pieces, and lined the skirt in a very stretchy woven purchased at Jomar for such purposes (it's so hard to find stretch lining!).

Facing and LiningMost people boned the waistband, and I considered doing so. I interfaced both the outer and inner waistband pieces with a medium-weigh stretch interfacing, and decided to put together the outer shell of the skirt to see if I felt it needed boning. With my firm fabric and the interfacing, I found that I didn't need boning. The waistband does not collapse even when I sit, I think due to it being so very high.

I know this is why you people muslin, but the fit isn't great. At first I was ready to curse my belly, but analyzing it more it is actually a problem in the front thigh that is causing the wrinkling. There is actually plenty of room in the belly, but the thigh pushes the fabric forward to create arrows that make it seem like it's the belly. This is good--I have no qualms about an athletic front thigh adjustment. "Athletic" is not a euphemism here, and I have worked hard for every millimeter of that muscle!

With Vogue 2859Believe it or not, even in that Schiaparelli shocking pink, this goes with several pieces in my closet. One of the reasons I was keen to make it was to go with Vogue 2859. This 1930s vintage Vogue reissue is extremely, extremely short. The only skirt I had to wear it with was the black double-knit one I made to go with it, but it is kind of vavoom for day. This look is more wearable for every day.

Unfortunately, I think I waited a little too long to make this skirt and the moment for the extremely high-waisted pencil skirt has passed. This is only a few inches below my boobs. While the look isn't "dated" in the classic sense, it looks costumey now. I could have worn this last winter with no problem, but this year I think I will always wear the top untucked over that high waist. But I'm sure I will wear it a lot--it is definitely a color that winter needs more of.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

29 comments:

tanitisis said...

It is super cute! I love the idea of corset-waist skirts... I just haven't found one yet that I like on my particular body. The only high-waist skirt I've made, I find I prefer with hip-length shirts untucked over it anyway.

As for fads, well, poo on them. I say wear it! :)

Uta said...

Great skirt! I love that you "wore it anyway, of course". A lot of offices could use a shot of flourescent pink right now, I think! Are you sure anyone is so tuned in to fashionable skirt shapes that they would notice it's out of fashion? I think it suits you very well when the high waist shows.

Emory said...

I don't think it looks dated or too last year at all. With that black and pink top in the first picture it almost looks more like a dress than a skirt and blouse. I think it looks great and definitely not costumey.

Adelaide B said...

I love this color! Love it love it love it! And I think this style is great. (Yes, my taste is suspect. Whatever.)

sewducky said...

Very nicely done. As a Schiaparelli fan, I have a lot of this color in my wardrobe and it looks great on you.

Me, not so much. High waists are not my thing. On you it looks good.

Nettie said...

I agree that it looks fantastic and not at all dated! It makes your ass look great and that's a win any season, any year.

KID, MD said...

Fabulous!!! I admit to a love of shocking pink myself though, so add in a corset waist pencil skirt - total love! It looks great on you.

Anita (Summer Gypsy) said...

What a lovely skirt... and the high waist is such a great idea for short blouses, as you say. It looks so nice with that Vogue 2859 blouse. (I LOVE that blouse, BTW, esp. the tie belt)

mi said...

wow, love the skirt!

McVal said...

I may not ever wear bold colors in the winter, but I love that pink! I had a high waisted denim pencil skirt in college and loved the heck out of it. My body isn't built for that kind of fit anymore however...
Good job!

Victoria said...

Lovely skirt! That is showing off your cute figure!!! You look so good in this that you should definitely make one in every color. I wish I could wear this, but my short-waistedness would make this so unflattering! LOL!

Faye Lewis said...

Very cute skirt; and of course I'm partial to that pink.

Sunny Optimist said...

So cute! And I think the high waist is still fabulous. When you mention "an athletic front thigh adjustment" what would that mean? I often have the issue with pencil skirt where the belly is perfectly fine but those darn lines show up anyway due to the thighs...how do you correct for this?

lizajane said...

I wouldn't worry about the fad passing. It looks fabulous on you! I love a bright color.

Vicki said...

Really cute. Like the first blouse and skirt combi very much :)

BeeBee said...

I like your skirt and don't think it looks dated. But maybe I'm just behind the trends...
I made that same skirt last year but it was so large on me that I never wore it.

AllisonC said...

I hope its not too dated for this year, I made one in black and will wear it till it falls apart! Yours is a much more interesting colour and I love it with the vintage blouse, which I also have in my pattern stash somewhere....

marysews said...

I love the color! It looks close enough to a Pantone color touted as one of the colors for Spring 2011: http://www.pantone.com/pages/Pantone/Pantone.aspx?pg=20759&ca=4

Kary said...

I love your skirt and I don't think it looks dated at all! It looks wonderful on you!

Amanda S. said...

What? These are going out of style? Arg! I never can keep up with that. Oh well, if it suits your body type, which it totally does, I say rock it anyway. Great color as well!

Karin said...

Surely these can't be going out of style yet! It's a great skirt and it really suits you. Your waist looks teeny in it.

Linda said...

I made this skirt last year and I did the Sandra Betzina swayback adjustment to the center back waist piece. It worked well as would a tuck.

Skirt looks good and I don't think it is dated looking, particularly with the black and pink top. But then I wear what I like most of the time even if dated. Of course I live in non-hip city compared to DC and you guys set some fashion trends.

Anyway, long comment, skirt looks good on you! And it will work by wearing tops not tucked in.

Little Hunting Creek said...

I loikethe hot pink, and it doesn't look dated at all. Plus, you crack me up assuming that most Washingtonians would even notice anything past its prime, fashion-wise. This is not exactly fashion central. Wear your skirt with pride! It looks great on you

Noile said...

Actually, I love it in the first set of pictures, with the skinny black belt. The belt reduces any "costumey" consideration quite a bit. The skirt looks great on you -- especially with that blouse, too.

Susan said...

I love this style skirt. Not sure if it loves me though...lol.

I should dig out my old Burda issue and give this a try.

MushyWear said...

This is a great look Trena! Both with color and style. I saw some high-waisted skirts in the Spring 2011 collections. I would think it would still be ok for this fall, especially if you love it and feel good showing of the high waist. I sure do like it.

Anonymous said...

The skirt looks wonderful on you particularly with the paisley patterned blouse and the heels. I think the long-sleeved blouse with the pink skirt would look wonderful with those heels as well...in full Mad Men style! Linda

senaSews said...

I love this skirt. The color is awesome. It's such an adorable outfit with the Simplicity blouse!

Isabelle said...

This is a fabulous colour on you. I especially love your skirt paired with your 1930s blouse. This is a great look! Love the contrast between the formal style and the vibrant, happy colour.