Thursday, August 19, 2010

Butterick 5283, Asymmetric Twist Top

B5283 Thumbnail

T-shirts are serviceable but boring. I mentioned before that when I didn't have time sew my uniform for, like, 10 years was a solid colored tee (H&M, mostly) and a bright printed skirt (half quickie hand-made, half RTW). I still enjoy seeing this look on other people, but I feel so bored I'm going to throw up when I put it on myself. However, I do have a few printed skirts that I love to wear (like the one on the left of my silk jersey score), so I'm always looking for a way wear a tee but still be interesting. I liked this variation on the twist top, Butterick 5283. I made this over the winter out of the leftovers from my Duchess of Windsor dress from a couple of years ago and brought the pattern out again for the turquoise rayon jersey from G Street.

The method devised by Butterick to finish the front is creative, but a little strange. You're supposed to cut two fronts, then sew them right sides together at the neckline and the little area that will be exposed at the twist. Then turn right side out. This seemed both needlessly wasteful of fabric and like it would turn out a shirt with weird texture issues if you didn't also double the back. My construction method:

Construction

1. Fold the allowance of the front neckline over clear elastic and twin needle to finish.

2. Clip into the seam allowances at the twist marking, turn under, and stitch the allowance in place to finish.

3. Stitch the diagonal seam from side to finished twist edges. Twist. (The instructions have you twist and then stitch, I found it easier to stitch then twist, but it's just personal preference.)

4. Stitch front to back at shoulders, ensuring that back neckline allowance overhangs at the inner shoulder seam. This has a long drop shoulder so I stabilized with ribbon.

5. Press shoulder seam allowance toward back, including allowance on the overhanging portion of the back neckline.

6. Fold back neckline allowance over clear elastic and twin needle in place taking care to match up with twin needle stitching at front neckline.

Drafting sleeve For the turquoise version, I got in my head to do a bubble sleeve (gotta make it interesting, right?). I traced off a stay (the sleeve as drafted) and a longer bit of the sleeve for the bubble (marked lines here--although it turns out the bubble should only be 1.5 inches longer than the stay, see below). Then I slashed and spread the bubble part of the sleeve as shown at left.

Sleeve Assembly To make the sleeve, I gathered the lower edge of the bubble and the sewed it right sides together with the lower edge of the stay. I folded the bubble up over the stay to enclose the seam and then treated the sleeve as one unit in sewing to the armscye.

Before Shortening Bubble Sleeve I had been a little worried after assembling my sleeve, as the bubble did not really seem to be in evidence so I basted it in place to see how it looked. Didn't look like much! Although I added a generous amount of width to my bubble pattern, the volume wasn't showing with the sleeve stay being so much shorter and pulling most of that volume to the inside. So I took it off, shortened the bubble to about an inch longer than the stay and put it back in place. Much better!

For the blue version, I put darts in the back (should have added a CB seam and done a swayback adjustment). For the turquoise version, I also added a little width to the side seams below the bust to match the current styles. Shapeless is in, it seems.

MICHAEL Michael Kors Asymmetrical Blouse - Nordstrom Saks.com - Boss Black - Illary Knot Top In doing some virtual snoop shopping for Spring/Summer inspiration, I ran across not one but two versions of the asymmetric twist top. I'm not sure that the Kors piece is actually a twist, it looks like it could just be a gather, but the Boss Black is almost the same design (except in a woven). Fancy!

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

26 comments:

Trudy Callan said...

Very cute. Anything you make is far from boring.

Trudy
www.sewingwithtrudy.blogspot.com

Debbie Cook said...

Love them both. I have this pattern but have pretty much decided that it would be horrible on a large bust, making the girls look very unmatched. Of course, that's all in my head since I haven't actually taken the pattern out of the envelope yet.

senaSews said...

Two really nice tops, especially the turqoise one! It works perfectly with the skirt!

Sigrid said...

Nice variation on a t-shirt. Love the look on you.

Amanda S. said...

I always go for simple shirts with interesting necklines. That paired with a pair of jeans is probably my "uniform" for winter, being a SAHM and all. These are very cute! I have the pattern, just haven't taken the plunge in making anything from it yet. Great tut on the neckline. I'll definitely be utilizing that in the future.

A Sewn Wardrobe said...

Hmmm... Do you think this top is loose enough to be made in a woven? Or perhaps it could be done if one went up a size?

MushyWear said...

I love it when I see something similar out in the retail world to what I have just made. Nice job on both tops. I don't have this pattern, but I do like that it is an interesting T-shirt. Both are nicely styled. I particularly like the printed long sleeve with the skirt and boots. Very cool.

Uta said...

Cute tops! I know it's a bit "serious" for you, but I really like the outfit on the right. Too bad I can't bring myself to pay up for single patterns...

RiAnge Creations. Ltd. said...

Nice tops. I need to revisit this pattern. I like your sleeve treatments.
Angela

Dilliander said...

This looks great Trena, did you do a SBA? I made this same pattern last year in a cotton jersey but it didn't sit as well as yours and had excess fabric bunching up on one side of the twist. I also noticed it was a relaxed fit, so I may try it again in a woven, thanks for the idea.

Lavon said...

I may have to give this a try. I love tee shirt but I hate they they are well tee shirts. so I will give the twist a try.
thanks for sharing

knitmachinequeen (KMQ) said...

I have this pattern. Thanks to you I might actually use it!

Carol said...

Mmm twist front tops. I'm wearing one today under sufferance as I have made three before and binned them all. I'm still not sure about them. I think an assymmetric one would really do my head in. The long sleeve one is my favourite on you, though.

Joy said...

Both tops are a lovely "twist" on the basic tee. I'm inspired to sew some more interesting tees-now that I'm making some progress in fit issues.

AllisonC said...

I love it, i was wondering how I could have possibly missed this pattern until I looked at the pattern envelope drawing - how uninspiring. Thank you for bringing this one to life!

kbenco said...

These are very nice t shirts. I am now strongly tempted by the pattern, although like Allison, I was not in the least interested in the pattern envelope version. The twist does look good in a woven version too, thanks for the photos.

Faye Lewis said...

I love both versions.

Little Hunting Creek said...

VERY nice! I especially like the twistiness

HeathersSphere said...

Two fab looking tops! I like your "twist" on the Butterick tops!

Eugenia said...

Two gorgeous tops. Your construction method is ingenious and I love the bubble sleeve. I have never attempted a twist top but you've really got me wanting one - you have such a great eye for picking out interesting styles!

McVal said...

Oh I LOVE those tees! Want to do that now...
My other projects will have to wait... as they always do.

Nancy K said...

I still love twist tops and this variation is great and I love that it's high enough not to expose cleavage.

sewabeginner said...

This twist top is very flattering on you. It looks very cool too!

Beth said...

I just found your blog. It is great! I was wondering about the clear elastic that you seem to use often on the neckline of your knit clothes. How do you determine the length of the clear elastic? I would love to know more about how you do this technique.

sewsofun@gmail.com

Lalita-chan said...

Hi... I trying to make this top...
but i dont know how to make the knot..
can you help me? please?
http://www.polyvore.com/red_satin_knot_neck_top/thing?id=12099892

The Slapdash Sewist said...

I'm afraid I'm not a pattern drafter, Lalita. However, this Butterick pattern would be a good place to start. It is out of print but still available on the Butterick website. The pattern includes instructions.