Tuesday, July 1, 2014

Burda 7519, Copper Cowl Carapace Dress

Burda 7519 Thumbnail

I didn't mean to be gone for so long!  Sadly, no sewing here since early May--which is really a record.  First there was packing at the old place, then there was moving, and then I was in a dilemma with my sewing room:  I can't set it up because the roof hatch is in there, and we need some work done in the crawlspace on our roof beam and to insulate the crawlspace.  So I don't want to unpack my sewing room until that's done because everything will get all dusty (and I don't know how much floorspace they need as a staging area).  I did finally get more shelves and moved all the boxes around for the millionth time--I can at least walk in there now!

I have a couple old projects I haven't blogged but there's a reason for that--you're definitely getting the B-Roll here, folks.

Here's a dress from Burda 7519.  I made this before (the top in the thumbnail) and I think I'm done.  It's more interesting than flattering, especially for the amount of fabric it takes.

Back Neckline Finish

When I made this the first time, I fully lined the top and used the back lining to finish the neckline.  This substantial fabric didn't need lining, so I made some self bias tape to finish the back neckline before sewing the shoulder seams.

Pocket Facings

I found this gorgeous copper silk on G Street's $7.97/yd (now $8.97) silk table.  I bought the whole piece and managed to get this dress and a t-shirt out of it, with no scraps to spare.  I had to use a pocket facing because I didn't have enough of the fabric for the entire back pocket pieces, but didn't want the pocket lining fabric to show.

Use Differential Feed on Serger to Gather Up Edge

The sleeve hem is very long and very round, which is a pretty deadly combination for getting a nice flat hem.  I experimented with the differential feed on my serger until I got a nice 3 thread gather to take up some of the volume at the hem.

Press Sleeve Hem Under

Then I pressed under the serged edge, and folded it over again on itself before stitching.  I got a nice flat narrow hem in a tricky fabric on a tricky shape using this method and was quite pleased with myself.


I got pretty good drape on the sleeves, but still not the three nice waterfalls you're supposed to get according to the line drawing.  Maybe I'll try this sleeve again on a plainer, more fitted body.  It certainly adds interest.


I was fairly disappointed in the dress when I finally put it on.  It was my first project for Fall and it does look like a Fall dress--but more in a Pilgrim-y sort of way than a chic sort of way.  Belting it helps, as does the shorter length, but it's much more dowdy than I expected.  The volume just doesn't work on me.  Which I already knew from the first time I made it.  I don't know why I made it again.

I do like that it has pockets, though!  And the accidental shirttail hem is a detail I also like.  I guess with that much volume, when you add a belt it distorts the hemline.  Another reason to avoid this style.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.


cidell said...

LOL. I'm relieved you don't love it. When I saw it pop up in my reader I thought it looked like a Medieval smock. The sleeves are super cool. I get what you're saying about it being more interesting than flattering. Pooh.

Venus de Hilo said...

It's a shame there's so much extra going on at the front torso, because the fabric is lovely and the rest of it looks good. It does look better belted. Maybe it will turn out to be a comfy favorite for at-home wear?

Rose said...

I'm glad to see you again! I'm not certain if that the right style for you, but the top looks really big--the cowl and and the sleeves seem to be overpowering you. Random speculation on how to improve it: make top without the cowl (but with the sleeves) or with the cowl and a simple sleeve would work or scale down the size/volume of the cowl. Or just move onto another pattern. The sleeves look really cool, though.

Mary said...

How nice to see you!! I love those sleeves, and think they are meant to be center stage and not compete with the cowl. Gorgeous fabric and great technique, as always. Have fun in your new home, and keep posting if only to say hello.

Uta said...

It's great to see you posting again! I love the color, especially with the contrast belt. I think it would have been fine with different sleeves; I don't mind the volume in the front so much. With all that fabric I'm certain you could rework it. Then again, it might be more fun to make something entirely different ;-) I hope your sewing room gets set up soon!

Dilly said...

OK, I'm going to be the lone voice here - I really like this dress on you! The top version sort of overwhelmed you, but the silk of the dress drapes beautifully so doesn't look so... big and puffy I guess. And I think the skirt and contrast belt balance out the volume on top. Plus this colour looks absolutely amazing on you! Oh well - at least if you really aren't comfortable wearing it, there's enough fabric to chop it up and make something different! Fingers crossed you can get your loft sorted soon and get back to the sewing machine :)

Lynn said...

I'm thrilled to hear from you! Big changes, I presume. That "we" implies that you might have moved in with your long term traveling partner. While I don't think the shape of this dress is all that flattering, the color is gorgeous on you!

kbenco said...

Its good to see you posting again.I've been missing your sewing.
The copper silk fabric is amazing on you, such a beautiful colour and drape. I quite like the casual oversized look of the dress, almost sporty luxe with that beautiful fabric, but if it is not appealing to you, I really hope you can get something else made from this piece.

Anonymous said...

Ah! We're in the same boat! I haven't been able to sew for a while either because of a move...that we still haven't made, LOL!

Well, this dress certainly is interesting. I like a lot of the parts, but I feel like all the parts together is just too much. Maybe swap out the sleeves on the blouse, and use the sleeve pattern for a different blouse. Or just donate it/relegate it to the "if I get motivated to tear it apart to use for something else" pile. Or am I the only one that has one of those? ;-)

Lynn Barnes said...

So glad you are back on my screen again! You have certainly undertaken a long sewing fast, albeit an unintended one. Isn't it sad that sometimes the most interesting things to sew are the very things that one should avoid wearing, to look one's best? I remember a Park Bench pattern for a two-piece dress, with really wack-a-doodle sleeves; and with "knee pockets" in the otherwise plain skirt. Knee pockets? supposed to keep the skirt from bagging out when you wear it. In real life, they trap your knees and make it hard to stand up after long sitting. The sleeves were magnificent: I made them with standing seams, bound in a contrast color. V. medieval in flavor. Not my most flattering look, but I really miss that dress (it went to Goodwill years and years ago).

McVal said...

I like the effect of the sleeves, but probably not with a cowl. Like too much going on. Can you redo either the cowl or the sleeves for the brown dress and use a different bodice for a new one?
Good to see you back!!!

Reader Sewer said...

Thanks for posting your less successful items as well as the fabulous ones. I also am narrow in the chest and shoulders. It seems like it should be flattering to add volume there, but it is tricky to find just the right style. I would have been drawn to this pattern also but now I will stay away :)

Isabelle said...

Yes - more interesting than flattering. Too much fabric going on! With the short length and cool accessories it still works, though.

Hope you can get your sewing room set up soon! It was the same here when we moved in October - and now it's too hot to work there most of the time!

Kennis said...

I have that same "window pane" fabric. It's been in my stash for years. I still don't know what to do with it...

elizabethe said...

I'm with Dilly, I actually think this is super cute on you!

prttynpnk said...

I bombed hard with this pattern- yours is so much better- sorry it's not pleasing you- the color is amazing on!