Friday, March 29, 2013

Burda 12-2011-105, Rosebud Wrap Skirt

Burda 12-2011-105 Thumbnail

It is pattern stash contest time!  It's a good exercise in getting to long-planned projects.  My first entry is   Burda 12-2011-105 (available for purchase at the link--I am not affiliated in any way and do not receive compensation).  I finished this skirt the night before our DC-area meetup, and Sewandwrite was kind enough to take the fun photos.  I haven't yet confessed the fabric.  It is a Fabric Mart Maggy London piece; I received it on Thursday, washed it that night, and sewed it on Friday.  It never had time to hit the stash, which means it barely counts, right?

Length Alteration

Because the skirt can't be shortened in hemming without losing the shape/design elements, I took forever trying to figure out the right length.  After trying a couple different tissue fits, I decided to shorten it 1 1/2 inches.  I took out the length about 2/3 way down on the front pieces (I folded out an equal amount of length from the back piece).  I just smoothed out the curves when cutting.

The skirt is meant to be hemmed with a facing, but I decided to do a full lining instead.  I wanted to protect my skin from the scratchy metallic jacquard.  I generally put in the zipper of a skirt as the last part of basic construction so I can do final fitting, but with my finish method the zipper had to be done in the middle.  That's ok, because you have a fitting opportunity in crossing the fronts over one another.

First, sew the side seams of the fashion fabric and the lining.

Second, put the zipper in the center back seam of the fashion fabric (which I added; this is supposed to be cut on the fold but I don't like the way side zippers can stiffen the side seam in an asymmetrical way).  Stitch the center back seam of the lining from the hem to the bottom of the zipper opening.

Trim Underlining at Hem

Third, trim 1/4 inch off the lower edge of the lining for turn of cloth.

Fashion Fabric and Underlining Sewn Together at Hem

Fourth, pin and stitch the lining and fashion fabric together along the hem edge, right sides together.

Press With Turn of Cloth

Turn and press, folding slightly into the fashion fabric rather than right at the seam--that's what the turn of cloth is for.  This will prevent the lining from flashing.

Fashion Fabric and Lining as one at Darts

Fifth, carefully match up the waist edges of the fashion and lining fabrics.  Make sure that the length is perfect.  Pin and stitch the darts and pleats in the fashion fabric and lining as one.

Sixth, fold the right front over the left front.  Baste in place.  Then finish the waist.  I used a straight waistband in a single piece; the pattern calls for a shaped waistband with front and back pieces but I felt it would make the waist just a little too high.  You could also finish with bias tape or a waist facing.

Change Hem for Next Time

When I make it again, I will keep the 1 1/2 inch all around shortening, and take an additional 3/4 inch off by reshaping the front pieces to shave off length very close to the bottom/side seam, and shortening the back accordingly.  Taking any more length out of the body of the skirt will raise the crossover too much but it is just slightly too long in the back.

Random Pleats as Drafted

The right front--the top piece of the front--has four pleats in it.  They are of random widths and just looked weird when sewn as drafted.  I unstitched them and redid it with evenly spaced pleats of the same width.  I reduced the amount that was to be pleated out by probably 1 inch total for a wider, more secure crossover.

Back Closeup

In hindsight, cotton batiste was not a good choice for lining this skirt.  It is definitely comfortable, but especially with my somewhat velcro-y fashion fabric, I should have chosen a slippery lining.  I have some trouble with the back fashion fabric and lining sitting strangely with one another, so that the back hem appears to be puckering.  The length of the two pieces is perfectly matched (minus my turn of cloth), but the batiste causes the pieces and the wrapover to grab each other and interact in weird ways. Oh well.  This skirt is, alas, not long for the world.  The metallic threads in the jacquard are already poking out all over the place and eventually it will just look ratty.

Other than my operator error in choosing poorly on the lining fabric, I really like this pattern and the final skirt.  It is bikeable, though off the bike there's a danger it will flash the shorts I always wear under skirts to avoid leers (or at least disappoint the leerers).  I'm certain this isn't the last skirt I'll make from this pattern.  I think it might be fun to make it in a more formal wool for a nice contrast between menswear fabric and a decidedly womenswear look.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.


Anonymous said...

Love the skirt! I just bought this fabric this month, too. Awesome to see it made up!

T. Sedai said...

Cute! Love the style on you. You should definitely make more of them - I agree that it would be fabulous in a nice wool.

And, if fabric goes from the box to the wash to the cutting table (or directly to the cutting table) it does not count as stash. Not one bit.

liza jane said...

It's almost like you didn't even buy fabric if it goes straight from purchase to garment. That's what I think ;)

I really like the style of this skirt. I recently won a pattern giveaway and received a dress that has a skirt like this. I like how feminine the cut is.

Ripple Dandelion said...

This skirt is so pretty. That's the word that comes to mind--pretty, pretty, pretty! It's too bad that the fabric has already put you on notice regarding its future. Maybe another version in cotton sateen? For summer?

Adelaide B said...

Ooo, I like the idea of making this in wool. Maybe a grey flannel?

Little Hunting Creek said...

If fabric never touches the stash it doesn't count. It's like it never happened. I like that style, and I think it would look great in wool.

Anonymous said...

I'm currently working on a dress with a skirt portion that is very similar to this so your tips will come in handy. :-)

This looks very cute on you, bummer that the threads are already coming out of the jacquard. :-( But, you can always make another one. :-)

Susan said...

That is a CUTE skirt! Love the design, and the fabric you chose for it. And it so does not count if the fabric never went into the stash -- nothing to confess here! ;-)

Uta said...

That's a very cute skirt! I also love your photos, well done!

Faye Lewis said...

Trina your skirt is too cute!

Sue said...

I think your right - a nice wool will make a great contrast for the femininity of this skirt. Enjoy this version while it lives.

Diana said...

Oh too cute! I love it!

Miss W said...

It's a really great skirt! Now I want one! If I didn't already have too many sewing projects to do...

Sewingelle said...

Very cute. A menswear fabric would look awesome in this style too (pinstripe grey with hot pink lining perhaps??)

Stacie Davis said...

I love it! It would be so nice for summer too...

Dilly said...

Ah, this is lovely! Thank you for your tips about making as this is a pattern that's been on my to-sew list for a long time too. Hopefully you get as many wears as possible before the fabric gives out, because it looks great on you.

Anna said...

Hello- I found your blog while searching for how to verify my own blog with Pinterest. THANKS so much for writing the tute for that. I am not a seamstress but I am so glad I found you.
Thanks again!

Anonymous said...

Your skirt pattern and fabric may a good combinations. I think a wool or suiting would turn out great, too.

French_Seam said...

I always wear shorts under my bike skirts too. I just feel safer.

It's funny (not) how motorists "just don't see" cyclists, unless they are females in skirts, then they can see them from a mile off !!
Or is that just in England?

The Slapdash Sewist said...

LOL, French_Seam, it's definitely not just in England. Although last night I had a driver stop and wait for me to continue through an intersection rather than right hooking me. I was so surprised! I hope they heard my thank you.

Of course, at the next intersection a car that had clearly seen me sped up to do the right hook (I slowed down so there was no collision). And they had a bike rack on the back of the car! Boo.