Thursday, February 7, 2013

Burda 06-2008-108, Shirtdress with Pleated Sleeve


Burda 06-2008-108 Thumbnail

I have been wanting to make Burda 06-2008-108 since, well, June of 2008.  It only took me 4 1/2 years to get to it.  At this rate I will be done with my sewing list in no time.

It comes in sizes 34-42, so not only did I not have to size it down at the shoulders and bust, it was on the old sheets.  So easy to trace, man.

The fabric is from the Grand Bazaar in Turkey, purchased on my trip there in 2010.  I always feel so victorious when I sew from deep stash (though I don't know if 2 years counts as deep stash).

Bind Sleeve Before Setting In

They have you bind the sleeve before setting it in, which is an interesting idea.  In reality, the sleeve ended up too tight around the bicep, so I had to undo my binding, let out the pleats, stitch extra length to the binding, and then re-sew it on.  Next time I'll just wait until the sleeve is set in and fitted as usual!

Stitch Collar Band to Neckline




I am pretty sure I didn't sew a single collar with collar band in 2012.  Traditional blouses are not a staple in my wardrobe, and I always find the process nerve wracking.  For this shirtdress I tried a new method.  I am certain I didn't make this up; Sigrid has an excellent tutorial but I couldn't figure out who I heard it from.  If you have blogged this method, claim the credit!

I started by sewing the collar band to the neckline, stitching the two collar bands together up to where the collar is attached.

Stitch Collar to Outer Collar Band



Next, I stitched the completed collar (stitched, turned, and topstitched) to the outer collar band.



Pin Inner Collar Band Over Collar





The final step is the turn under the hem allowance on the inner collar band and topstitch in place.  I chose to sew the collar to the outer and topstitch the inner because the inner collar band is the one that shows in wearing, as I planned to wear the collar open.

Collar Closeup

I found this less stressful than the usual method of making the collar/collar band unit and then sewing it to the neckline.  I never get a nice looking corner where the collar band meets the placket.

This one is not perfect, but that's because sewing this fabric was like trying to sew toilet paper, and I couldn't clip or trim too closely--or seam rip and start over on non-perfect seams.  Which, in a way, was liberating.

Back


My fabric was very narrow, so I cut the back on the fold without shaping, as drafted.  I am ok with the look of the back as the blousiness is part of the style.  I would probably add a shaped center back seam next time, though.

As you can see from the line drawing, the dress is meant to have elastic bands from the front to the back darts for fitting.  Because of the delicacy of the fabric, I decided to leave it as a semi-fitted style to reduce strain on the seams.  Based on the line drawing, I expected the dress to have more ease but it actually only has 2-3 extra inches of ease.  The elastic is more decorative than essential.





Outtake


I couldn't waste the opportunity of being at such a great location!  These photos were taken in the Japanese Garden at the Hillwood Estate.  My backup photographer (when Cidell isn't available) is somewhat masterful at getting awkward photos of me like this one. However, there are more flattering shots (as well as indoor shots that show the lines/details better) in the flickr album.

After anticipating this project for so long, I was afraid it would be a let down when I finally got to it.  Actually, I am so tickled with this dress!  It's a great shirtdress variation and fairly simple to sew--it has a cut-on placket, rather than a separate one, and requires little by way of fitting.

Alas, I will be pleasantly surprised if I get 10 wears out of this dress due to the extreme fragility of the fabric.  There are already weak spots on the seams and it's just going to shred out fairly quickly, despite using French seams.  :(  However, while the dress may not be long for this world, the pattern is a keeper!  It definitely goes in the rotation.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

35 comments:

McVal said...

Wow! You did an awesome job on that collar! Mine typically look very amateurish.
Cute dress!

Little Hunting Creek said...

Pretty dress-this would be nice in silk.

Uta said...

Lovely dress! I love the style with the delicate flowers. I have this Burda issue, too. So many patterns waiting to get to!

countrygirlcouture said...

"At this rate I'll get through my sewing list in no time." LOL!! I love this dress, and I'm going to have to try this method of attaching the collar when I start on hubby's shirts in a couple of days (or so).

BConky said...

Nice classic shirtwaist dress. Love the boots as any good Texas would.

Angela said...

Love your dress! Several dresses I have made recently have had instructions to hem or put the cuff on the sleeves before they are attached to the dress, which I find puzzling. There's no way to tell where I want to hem the sleeves until they are attached, so I have ignored those directions.

Karin said...

Cute dress! And perfect styled with cowboy boots. I love your location shots too.

catspec said...

Such a cute dress pattern! Hope to see this in a summer cotton soon!
m:)

Trumbelina said...

I love everything about this, right down to your tights and boots! The length is perfect. That is some interesting collar construction – I'll have to give it a try next time to see if it makes things easier.

Amanda S. said...

Really nice design on you! Sorry the fabric is so unstable, but at least now you've got the fit down.

T. Sedai said...

It is sad the fabric isn't holding well, as it is really lovely. I agree that the dress style looks fantastic though, so I am excited that you will make more of them!

Venus de Hilo said...

Adorable dress, the style suits you very well. Pretty, flattering, and comfortable is a win! Too bad about the fragile fabric, but a great reason to make another.

petal said...

I have had this dress on my To Sew list since the magazine came out as well. It looks great.

Carol said...

I'm going to try this collar method. I think I've tried something like this when I first started sewing, but then I read too many articles about the burrito method and got stuck with that. This method looks easier and I am sure will produce a better result. This dress is one of the many I passed over when I saw it in the magazine but, as often happens, when I see it on a real body I want to make one instantly!

Anonymous said...

Your dress is super cute -- I love it! And it represents the best kind of souvenir, even if it is somewhat ephemeral.
Karen in Paris

liza jane said...

Pretty fabric. Too bad it's so fragile. I really like the way you described sewing the collar. The band/placket part of collar sewing is my worst. I'll have to try it out this way next time I sew a traditional collar.

Sue said...

I love a shirt dress. The right combo of casual and feminine. :) Pretty fabric... just enjoy while it lives. I have had the same problem recently with finishing an armhole before sewing the side seam in a Burda mag pattern. I have had to unpick, make bigger and re-finish and I learnt my lesson also.

velosewer said...

Great collar. You've nailed it and this pattern is definitely a keeper, as you say.
Traditional blouses aren't common in my wardrobe either but the ease in your dress would make it worthwhile making and repeating.

Brenda said...

I LOVE your hair in this style! Long and no bangs. You look great! The dress is darling, too.

Donna said...

I agree, fabric makes the best souvenir, and that dress is darling. Take plenty of photos while it lasts :)

Sz said...

The collar method you used has been documented several places - Stitcher's Guild and probably Pattern Review as well. It's also the method Louise Cutting uses when she teaches, and is included in her Cutting Line patterns.

Clio said...

Such a shame it won't last, especially since it is fabric from a memorable trip. Make 3 more when this one goes kaput - it's great on you!

KayY said...

Nice dress, too bad about its fragility. David Page Coffin also describes the collar method you used. It's definitely easier to get a truly good result with.

Katharine said...

We love the dress, and your jewelry! Did you make the necklace and earrings too? BTW love the accessorizing with cowboy boots and bright tights. Something for me to note and wear here to cut down on the inevitable questions of where my accent comes from.

aleah said...

Such a great dress! Now I want this pattern, too bad Burda doesn't have any patterns older than a couple years online... Regardless I'm going to use this collar construction method from now on - thanks for sharing, even if you didn't pioneer it!

Kristy said...

I love this dress too - I made it into a modified for maternity version last year and have been meaning to make a normal version for a while now, but like you I never seem to get through all the things on my to do list!

SEWN said...

Cute dress. Love the fabric. So ephemeral, but worth it.

Ms. McCall said...

What a shame the fabric isn't holding up - it's a great dress, up close, and from distance. I love the print, the colour's great on you :)

Lynneb said...

Cute style for a shirtdress. It's a great look for you.

Audrey said...

Really pretty dress. Got to love those old Burda patterns! Too bad the fabric is so fragile. I love the term a "deep stash" but had to cringe at the thought of the high number that would represent "deep" on my stash.

Linda said...

Cute dress! I am of the opinion that Burda patterns really age well!

sewista said...

yep this is a winner, i like the tights too and the boots

Carole said...

I love everything about this dress!! Do you have any advice about sergers? I need to upgrade. thanks

TraceyWelsh said...

I'm only new to your blog, and I'm addicted!!! Love the stuff you make and the way you write. Not sure when you started this blog, but I've gone back as far as 2010, I hope there's YEARS more to read. Lol.

Anonymous said...

Hi there

Your work is generally good and I am thrilled at your improvement. On the issue of the back, you can halve your high bust measurement and add ease and use it to get a good fit. You can also use tape to measure lengths such as center back by taping the measure to your center back waist, extend the t/measure to your nape bone and mark with you finger. Just give the t/measure a little tug to release the tape and record the measurement. This trick can be used for any and every measurement when you take your own measurements. GOOD LUCK AND HAPPY SEWING