Burda 06-2008-108, Shirtdress with Pleated Sleeve

I have been wanting to make Burda 06-2008-108 since, well, June of 2008.  It only took me 4 1/2 years to get to it.  At this rate I will be done with my sewing list in no time.

It comes in sizes 34-42, so not only did I not have to size it down at the shoulders and bust, it was on the old sheets.  So easy to trace, man.

The fabric is from the Grand Bazaar in Turkey, purchased on my trip there in 2010.  I always feel so victorious when I sew from deep stash (though I don't know if 2 years counts as deep stash).



They have you bind the sleeve before setting it in, which is an interesting idea.  In reality, the sleeve ended up too tight around the bicep, so I had to undo my binding, let out the pleats, stitch extra length to the binding, and then re-sew it on.  Next time I'll just wait until the sleeve is set in and fitted as usual!






I am pretty sure I didn't sew a single collar with collar band in 2012.  Traditional blouses are not a staple in my wardrobe, and I always find the process nerve wracking.  For this shirtdress I tried a new method.  I am certain I didn't make this up; Sigrid has an excellent tutorial but I couldn't figure out who I heard it from.  If you have blogged this method, claim the credit!

I started by sewing the collar band to the neckline, stitching the two collar bands together up to where the collar is attached.





Next, I stitched the completed collar (stitched, turned, and topstitched) to the outer collar band.









The final step is the turn under the hem allowance on the inner collar band and topstitch in place.  I chose to sew the collar to the outer and topstitch the inner because the inner collar band is the one that shows in wearing, as I planned to wear the collar open.



I found this less stressful than the usual method of making the collar/collar band unit and then sewing it to the neckline.  I never get a nice looking corner where the collar band meets the placket.

This one is not perfect, but that's because sewing this fabric was like trying to sew toilet paper, and I couldn't clip or trim too closely--or seam rip and start over on non-perfect seams.  Which, in a way, was liberating.




My fabric was very narrow, so I cut the back on the fold without shaping, as drafted.  I am ok with the look of the back as the blousiness is part of the style.  I would probably add a shaped center back seam next time, though.

As you can see from the line drawing, the dress is meant to have elastic bands from the front to the back darts for fitting.  Because of the delicacy of the fabric, I decided to leave it as a semi-fitted style to reduce strain on the seams.  Based on the line drawing, I expected the dress to have more ease but it actually only has 2-3 extra inches of ease.  The elastic is more decorative than essential.








I couldn't waste the opportunity of being at such a great location!  These photos were taken in the Japanese Garden at the Hillwood Estate.  My backup photographer (when Cidell isn't available) is somewhat masterful at getting awkward photos of me like this one. However, there are more flattering shots (as well as indoor shots that show the lines/details better) in the flickr album.

After anticipating this project for so long, I was afraid it would be a let down when I finally got to it.  Actually, I am so tickled with this dress!  It's a great shirtdress variation and fairly simple to sew--it has a cut-on placket, rather than a separate one, and requires little by way of fitting.

Alas, I will be pleasantly surprised if I get 10 wears out of this dress due to the extreme fragility of the fabric.  There are already weak spots on the seams and it's just going to shred out fairly quickly, despite using French seams.  :(  However, while the dress may not be long for this world, the pattern is a keeper!  It definitely goes in the rotation.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.