Thursday, January 24, 2013

McCall 4394, Palmer-Pletsch Princess Seam Jacket

M4394 Thumbnail





You may recall that when we went to Fabric Mart, this somewhat scratchy nylon jacquard was the only piece I regretted.  I had bought it thinking sheath dress (honestly, I'm not sure why I thought an ivory sheath dress would be a good idea in the first place.  I blame the fabric haze). Anyway, I realized when I got it home that it was in no way suitable for a dress.

I thought it might make a nice jacket, but the ivory color wasn't turning me on as a jacket.  Then I got the idea to dye it, as nylon takes dye to some extent.  So then I thought I'd dye it orange and make it into a jacket for me.

I usually sew for my mom for Christmas (I occasionally even take pictures, but then never get around to posting the projects).  The only two people I'll sew for are my mom and my niece, because they both like whatever I make for them.  I don't take requests!  Purple is her favorite color, so I decided to dye the fabric purple and make a jacket for her.

In snoop shopping I ran across this casual Eileen Fisher Open Front Three Quarter Sleeve Coat ($468).  I really like the causal open look and thought the longer length would suit my mom.


M4394 Envelope

M4394 Front-Back ViewsI had McCall 4394, a Palmer/Pletsch wardrobe, in my stash.  This pattern is now long out of print, but it has nice classic elements.  I may give the princess top a try at some point.

I also appreciate the fitting/alteration lines printed on the pattern. That is a big advantage of the Palmer/Pletsch line. I did a full bicep adjustment, in addition to a swayback, as mentioned below.

M4394 Side


 
One of the things I really like about the draft is that it has nice shaping through the back.  Too often, center back seams are straight, when nobody is straight in the back!

I also did a small swayback adjustment.  It's hard to get my mom to give me a set of current measurements, and I don't know all the adjustments she needs.  But I figured I was safe with a swayback adjustment.


My one gripe about this pattern is that the pocket placement is very low.  I mean, I'm short, but I don't know that I'm *that* short.  To be able to put my hands in the pocket I had to be pulling up the coat a bit.  Check the placement before you make it.



 

Back

 

 
The pattern is drafted with a two-piece sleeve that naturally curves toward the front, to follow the anatomical shape of the arm.  It's a nice detail.


The jacket isn't designed with a closure.  I thought I had made it with an overlap so I could put buttons on, but due to the lack of measurements that was not the case.  We bought a frog closure from Joann in white.  I figured I'd dip it into dye and hopefully it would take a little color.  Well, it turns out those frogs are extremely dyeable!  I wasn't crazy about the super dark purple as compared with the pastel purple of the jacket, but my mom said she liked it so I sewed it on and that was that.







Stashbusting Lining


I forgot that I was really working hard to make sure this got done on time, and didn't take any in-progress photos.  This is the only photo I have of the inside, showing my two different linings.  I was in stashbusting mode and didn't want to buy a new lining.  The body lining (the red-purple) is leftover from a skirt I made for her a couple years ago.  I've made her several tops to coordinate with the skirt.  I thought it would be nice to wear the jacket with the skirt and show off the matching lining.

The blue-purple sleeve lining is the last of of the Fabric.com Vera Wang silk/rayon satin in that color.  





 
Crafty and Friends


I've covered my mom's face for her privacy (that's Helen Mirren smiling in the front view photos).  Here's a star whose face I *can* show, Crafty.  He is a retired racing greyhound and the nephew of my family's beloved Smash.  We have always been a dog family, but this is the first time we have ever had a dog that likes toys.  He loves them!  Especially squeaky toys.  He squeaks them for a while, then tosses them in the air for a while, the squeaks again.  He knows his toys by name, so if you tell him to go get Pink Bear, he comes back with Pink Bear.  It is adorable.  He is wary of paparazzi, so any time I tried to sneak up on him to get an action shot he just looked at me reproachfully.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

26 comments:

Lynn (YSG!) said...

Nice coat and good deed to sew for your mom and niece. I don't know if you are aware, but your mom's face is clearly visible in the first photo.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Thank you, Lynn! That's not actually her--I (badly)superimposed Helen Mirren's face over my mom's.

Tee said...

LOL, I thought you mom looked familiar! Nice coat!

Trumbelina said...

Nice job on the coat. I actually said out loud "Trena's mom looks just like Hellen Mirren!" I once sewed a skirt for my mom. I forced her to come over for an afternoon so I could fit her while I sewed. It was a good excuse to learn how to make an uneven hip adjustment!! Crafty is ADORABLE. I just want to bite his face he's so cute!

SEWN said...

Wow! The fit is great!!! Especially for not having current measurements. I'm sure she loves it. Beautiful jacket.

sewforward said...

Beautiful coat. And, it fits your Mom perfectly. Crafty is one luck greyhound. I have a retired greyhound, who also LOVES squeaky toys!

Caroline said...

I love the Helen Mirren shot! I think my Mum looks just like her too... great salvage of the fabric, it took the dye nicely. And very impressed with the fit considering it was a gift!

Clio said...

What a great daughter you are! It IS nice to sew for someone who appreciates it, isn't it?

Venus de Hilo said...

Lovely job on the coat, and with the photoshopping!

twotoast said...

Oooh!! I am a greyhound person as well and have a white/brindle just like your called Rocky. We also have an all-black grey called Hobbes - both are from the Flagler track in Florida, so they are not too keen on the Canaidna winters!!

Crafty could be Rocky's twin!

PS. Lovely jacket too!!!

Seraphinalina said...

I like the darker frog. I can see why you wanted to colour it, white might look a little stark but it does draw the eye up. Looks great.

McVal said...

Beautiful! I'll bet she wears it all the time!

Cennetta said...

Your mom look great in the lovely coat you made for her. And it good that she appreciate your hard work and effort.

Ripple Dandelion said...

Love Helen Mirren's fabulous new coat! She should be so lucky--your mom looks wonderful. The fit is spot on.

kathy said...

Your mom's coat is delightful. So lovely that she loves anything you make for her.

Sue said...

Lovely jacket - your Mum is lucky you sew for her! Cute dog too. My dog loves squeaky toys too. :)

Lynn said...

Lovely, Trena! Palmer Pletsch patterns are some of my favorites because of all the alteration lines. I'm going to look for that pattern. I sew for my mother for Christmas, too, but lately only stretch pants...not something I would brag about. Maybe I should try a jacket again.

gwensews said...

Your mom has to be so proud to have an intelligent, educated and talented daughter. Nice sewing!

meli88a said...

I hope I'm not the only one who clicked on this post just to see if your mom really looks like Helen Mirren! Helen Mirren, er, your mom really made out with that coat!

I love greyhounds too. They are such sweethearts.

Faye Lewis said...

Very nice coat!

Andrea said...

You did a lovely job on your mother's coat. She looks great in it. Crafty is gorgeous by the way!!! Do I see doggie coats in your future as well? =)

Mrs. Micawber said...

Helen looks great in lavender....

Nice work on the fit! It really shows in the profile shot. Lucky mom to have a custom-tailored coat from you.

Crafty looks like a real sweetheart.

lsaspacey said...

I keep meaning to send this link to you, vintage millinary books as free downloads here: http://digicoll.library.wisc.edu/cgi-bin/HumanEcol/HumanEcol-idx?type=browse&scope=HUMANECOL.MILLINERYBOOKS

Linda said...

Nice job!

Sz said...

Lovely coat!

Even lovelier greyhound. We were a grey family for many, many years. As soon as we get a fenced yard, the hope it to be one again!

They are the best dogs!

Lynn (YSG!) said...

I feel so slow. I thought her face looked familiar. Hah.