Friday, March 2, 2012

Burda 01-2009-110, Mock Wrap Top

Burda 01-2009-110 Thumbnail

I have been wanting to make Burda 01-2009-110, a mock wrap top with a side panel, since it came out in the magazine.  I even traced it about a year ago, but hadn't gotten around to it.  While the serger was threaded in red, I finally did it in the sparkle sweater knit I just got from Fabric.com.

Unfortunately, I didn't make a great choice in the fabric, as it is just too much bulk for this particular pattern.  The stretch and recovery are also not firm enough.  So beware:  if you want to make this top, to use a normal knit with a good lycra content, not a specialty knit like sweaterknit or rib knit.


Finish Neckline with Clear Elastic
I did my usual Small Bust Adjustment for a crossover top of shortening the crossover.  This top has separate right and left front patterns, so be sure to adjust both (or not, read on).

To further ensure that I would have no gapage in wearing, I finished the neckline with clear elastic cut slightly shorter than the neckline and a twin needle.

Note that although the instructions did not seem to tell you this, the neckline must be finished before the side panel is inserted.  I sewed the CB and shoulder seams and then finished the neckline before proceeding.

As I recall, the pattern is not drafted with a CB seam but I need one for my swayback.  I have also finally wised up on duplicative pattern tracing.  As mentioned previously, I have been developing a TNT tee.  I used my perfected back and sleeve for this pattern (actually, my TNT sleeve comes from this pattern), and only used the front pattern pieces for this particular pattern.  This is going to save me a lot of time in tracing in the future!  I have also developed a TNT woven sleeve for Burda projects and will stop tracing a new sleeve for each project that just uses a plain set-in sleeve.  Why didn't I think of this years ago?
Shortened Front Crossover Too Much!

I was so proud of my cleverness in making sure the neckline wouldn't gape.  Then I tried the top on.  Um.  As you can see on the right, the shortened neckline seriously pulls and distorts the side seam where it is attached.  I've not had that problem before with my SBA, but I can't think of another pattern I've done where the neckline is attached all the way at the side seam.

I marked about 1/2 inch below the crossover and removed the clear elastic below that marking and then just stretched out the neckline seam as much as I could.  The pulling is reduced, but not entirely eliminated (sorry, don't have a good after shot as I have obscured the side seam with my arm in this shot).



Underlining

Although the sweater knit is too thick for this pattern, it is also too thin to be worn on its own.  Oy.

I underlined the body pieces with a tricot type knit (a score on G Street's $2.97/yd table).  I thought about trying to do only a half lining on the underlap side of the front, but it got too complicated so I just lined the whole thing.



Sleeve Gather Detail







I cut the sleeves full length, and in this wimpy knit they ended up quite long.  Rather than cut them off, I stretched a piece of elastic on the inside and zigzagged over it to gather up the length a bit.


Front CloseupSide


















I'm going to refrain from tagging this a "fail," but it's not a great project. You can especially see the bulk problem at the front hem, which is stiff and oddly-shaped.  If I make this again, I will cut the front underlayer several inches shorter at the hem and finish it before attaching the side panel.  That way the visible hem will only be one layer.

The style seems good, though, as long as I can find a balance between a non-gaping crossover and a non-pulling side seam (which may not be possible).  We'll see if I try this one again.

 All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

18 comments:

wendy said...

this is great! i really like the color :)

Janice said...

I kind of do see the weird wobbly thing happening by the front hem, but maybe you can wear it tucked in with a pencil skirt?

shams said...

I don't know what to say about the wobble, but that is seriously flattering on you! Particularly in back!

Lori said...

The style looks very cute on you, as does the color. Fabric can be frustrating at times, I just finished a top with challenging fabric. Hope you make it again, it is really cute style.

LisaB said...

Your new top looks great on you. Don't beat yourself up over it too much!

If I understand correctly, the top left piece extends underneath to the right side seam. Would it be possible to not have that under layer? I don't have my magazine handy to look at the pieces, but I'm wondering if the right front could be topstitched over the left front. Then the left front wouldn't need to extend. Just an idea, and I don't know if it's feasible.

I really like this top. Good save on the long sleeves!

T. Sedai said...

I like the style, and I love the color. Too bad the fabric gave you so many problems... It is pretty fabric though. You should totally make this again is a different sort of knit - I think it would look great!

Mrs. Micawber said...

Crossover tops can be so darn tricky. (I've had the pulling problem and the chunky hem problem too.) But your top really does look good, and I like the sleeve treatment. This pattern would also look cute converted to a solid front, I think, with or without the panel duplicated on the opposite side.

How nice it will be when you have a TNT tee pattern. Nowadays all the purchased tees seem to be cut purposely off-grain, which drives me crazy.

Nancy K said...

I made this a few years ago and loved it. It died and I've been meaning to make another one so thank you for reminding me how much I liked it! I made it in a slinky and that was fine. A little bulky but it worked well.
It's a flattering top on you as well and we are have very different body types.

Clio said...

I really like the low-ish v-neck wrap style on you. Very enboobening. And a great color for you. But the wobble in the front is perplexing - it makes it look like there is too much fabric at the front hem (too wide between the hips) which is bizarre since the back clearly fits perfectly.

PS - Bummer that you won't make it to PR weekend this year.

Linda said...

In spite of some issues with this top, I like the color of the red knit.

Elizabeth said...

I love the shade of red. The fit is great, and looks cute with jeans.

emadethis said...

The side panel is such a great feature. Wraps are so finicky I feel...sometimes they're awesome like Simplicity 2369, and sometimes there's just something rotten in Denmark about them. I finished up an OOP Vogue 8635 only to find out that it was pulling horribly across my chest and gaping open. It was one of those tops that if you stand still it looked great, but if you moved a millimeter, game off. I think there's potential in this pattern though--it's a great color for you too.

Audrey said...

Very cute top. That style looks good on you. I have a RTW top that looks exactly like this. The under lap does not extend the full length of the top. It is only 2" long where it connects to the other side seam. My top also has a contrast color scoop neck panel in the front so it looks like it is being worn over a black T.

SueC56 said...

Thanks for sharing your thoughts process with us on projects like this. We all learn something that way.

Sue

SuesSewingStudio.blogspot.com.

Carol said...

The top looks nice on you, despite the problems. I made this when it first came out and I've worn it once. The fit was just not right for me and it's stashed at the back of the cupboard waiting for me to do something to make it wearable. I made the smallest size, but it just falls off my shoulders. I was thinking of trying to grade the pattern down but, of course, I haven't done it!

Sew Ducky said...

It still came out very well. I think we get too bogged down in what we sew to be able to see it objectively.

From my end it looks good.

Siebensachen said...

This is too bad, that you are disappointed with the pattern. I love it and I am a SBA-person, too. I raised the front neckline about 2cm. To my point of view, the shirt should fit rather tight in order to get the gathers nicely. And, as you said, it depends on the fabric. Want to see my shirts?
#1: http://siebensachen-zum-selbermachen.blogspot.com/2011/03/me-made-mittwoch-teil-2.html
#2: http://siebensachen-zum-selbermachen.blogspot.com/2011/12/memademittwoch-teil-22.html
I'm planning to make a dress out of this pattern. Drawing is done, fabric is in my stash - it just depends on time.
Greetings from Germany
Siebensachen

McVal said...

That is adorable!!!!