Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Vogue 8633, Yellow Pique Funnel Collar Split Neck Dress

V8633 Thumbnail

When I saw Vogue 8633 it was love at first sight. I bought the pattern last March and was in a feverish hunt for the right fabric for months. I finally found at PR Weekend Montreal, this stretch yellow pique from Goodman for $5/meter. So if I found the fabric in June of last year, why did it take me until almost the end of the next summer to make it? Who knows. So many projects, so little time!

Swayback Adjustment I started with my usual litany of adjustments. First, the swayback adjustment. I split it between the midriff piece and the skirt. During construction I ended up shortening the bodice back as well, as it was dipping low at the center. I was somewhat surprised by this, as the bodice back is well above natural waist and my swayback starts immediately below natural waist. But I got a great fit so I won't question it.

Small Bust Adjustment The small bust adjustment gave me a little pause. On a standard darted bodice the adjustment is quite easy: narrow the dart. Here there are two vertical darts as well as two neck darts to create shaping. The neck darts and the second vertical dart are quite small, so I decided just to narrow the large vertical dart. I got a good fit at the bust here, so I appear to have made the right decision.

I also did my usual Broad Back Adjustment.

Interfaced upper edge of collar To make sure that the cut on collar stands up properly, I interfaced the upper edge of the fashion fabric in addition to interfacing the facing. I finished the edges of the facing using the interfacing stitch-and-flip method. I am addicted to this!

Added Armscye Dart This pattern can be made with a little cut-on cap sleeve or with a full sleeve. However, the set-in sleeve is set into the dropped cap sleeve. I am just not a fan of the dropped shoulder. I considered actually being methodical and tracing a regular armscye onto the Vogue pattern. But it seemed to hard. So when the bodice was constructed I marked my shoulder line and cut off the cut-on sleeve extension. The I used the sleeve from Butterick 5321 and set it in. Disaster! Huge diagonal wrinkles radiated from the armscye toward the bust. They were awful.

I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to deal with it, and ended up taking out the sleeve and making a diagonal dart from the armscye toward the bust to try to take up the fabric that was wrinkling. The end result is not perfect, but it is much better than it was without the dart. I don't know if the wrinkling came from my haphazard creation of a set-in sleeve armscye or if it was a fit issue with the pattern as drafted. It's not something I recall encountering before.

Perhaps related (or not), the neckline and shoulders fall to the back on me. If I made this again I would probably need to figure out how to rotate that shoulder seam a little forward. It does not sit squarely on top of my shoulder; it's about 1/4 inch behind the shoulder line. I don't know if that would help the back neckline stay against the neck rather than pulling back or not.

I also had to hand-stitch the neckline slit closed about 1.25 inches higher than marked. This is quite low as drafted.

Linings I used a mix of linings on this project. I left the bodice unlined and just used the facing, for breathability. However, I see this dress transitioning into Fall so I wanted a slippery lining in the midriff and skirt so it won't stick to tights. For the midriff, I used a stretchy nylon, to preserve maximum stretch at the most fitted part of the dress. For the skirt I used a stretch poly I purchased from Fashion Fabrics Club last year for $5.25/yd.

Hem Facing Because I am short, I always have to shorten dresses and skirts by a lot, especially in the Big 4. I took out about 1.5 inches of length in cutting this dress. Imagine my surprise when it turned out a little short! Well, not short, but the raw lower edge was about the length I wanted the final product to be. I finished the hem with a facing, and sewed it to the hem edge with a teeny seam allowance. I then used a machine blind stitch to turn up the facing.


Side This dress was a long time in the making, both in contemplation and in actual sewing time. It was on the machine for about three weeks, mostly because I was busy during that time but also because the shoulders/armscye/sleeve gave me so much trouble. It was one of those pieces that has to go in the magic closet for a while so I stopped thinking only about those diagonal wrinkles, the misplaced shoulder, and the lack of balance of the dark yellow flowers on each side.

However, once it did its time, I was thrilled when it re-emerged. It's a very flattering dress for me and I love the sunny yellow color. I envisioned it as a work dress on dress-up days when I am meeting with outside counsel, but unfortunately the cut-on collar does not play well with a jacket. So I'll just wear it on days when I need a little pick-me-up.

The pattern is supposedly drafted for knits, but I had no trouble fitting it (in my usual size) in a stretchy woven. I don't think I would need to size up even for a non-stretch woven.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here

39 comments:

Amanda S. said...

Really cute! Yellow is my favorite color, and you wear it well. Putting something away in the "magic closet" is what I sometimes do as too.

LinB said...

Cute cute cute. That cut-on, funnel neckline is very flattering. It should do just fine with a collarless jacket. That's how we wore that style in the late 70s/early 80s.

Donna said...

Really beautiful! The fit looks great - all that suffering worked out in the end :)

Adelaide B said...

I bought this pattern awhile ago, but haven't made it. It looks great on you. hmmm. (Also, I love the fabric.)

Lindsay T said...

That is a great pattern on you. Love what you did here; hope to see future iterations of it.

Seraphinalina said...

Oh how cute! That dress totally suits you, so very flattering. It's a great match of pattern and fabric.

Uta said...

Gorgeous dress! Despite the sunny pattern it looks very elegant, and I really like how you paired it with the black jewelry and accessories.

Clio said...

What a great dress for "back to school" time of year. Very smart!

Lisette M said...

It is such a flattering dress on you! I didn't realize this pattern is drafted for knits.

Reethi said...

Yellow is a great color on you!

Summer said...

What a fun dress, and you look great :)

liza jane said...

How smart are you with the mix of linings? I love the little bit of stretch at the midriff. Lovely dress!

Eugenia said...

Very cute indeed! The style has a smart office look but the fabric you have used gives it a real sunny zing. Definitely a dress for smiling in - and you look lovely in it!

prttynpnk said...

I love this- oh, I love all your reviews, really- you are so detailed.

Lynneb said...

Gosh, what a darling dress! I wonder if I could put some things in your magic closet? Very nicely done.

Faye Lewis said...

Very cute. I really like that dress on you.

Jane said...

I love it! Such a happy dress :)

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Perfect pattern + perfect fabric = a wonderful dress for you! This is really lovely on you Trena!!!

okie2thfairy said...

This is a fantastic outfit!!! You've really outdone yourself- amazing!!! I love it- wear it with pride:)

Sherry said...

Very pretty - you look amazing in yellow. And the pattern disguises any armhole issues - you shouldn't have mentioned a thing, hehe!
This floral print is handy in that you can wear black shoes and still look summery!

Cindy said...

I love the collar and shoulder on the dress. Looks vintage. Very nice dress! How do you do it??

kathy said...

I love the colors on you and the way you styled it with black accessories.

MySummerTouch said...

Would you wear this dress to work? This is not an easy color and print to wear, and it looks great on you!Congratulations on another winner!

montanachic said...

LOVE IT! You have an amazing talent for sewing with prints and color.

Anonymous said...

I love the dress and I love your shoes!!! Carina

emadethis said...

I totally have passed by this pattern due to the boring pastel green dress on the envelope, but I would not have passed by this one. The fabric is great and it's a great color for you. It is unfortunate that it doesn't work so well with a jacket.

A Sewn Wardrobe said...

Expert fitting save on the bust alteration. It fits you so well. The neckline is such a great detail to this dress.

Hey, your tutorial on in-seam pockets w/ French seams enabled me to finally complete a dress entirely w/ French seams. Thanks!

Mrs. Micawber said...

Good fix on the wrinkle/sleeve issue!

Great style for you and the shoes are perfect.

I could almost see a turtlneck under this, with matching tights, for cooler wear.

AllisonC said...

Very cute dress and the fit is really great. This is a pretty versatile pattern, yours looks slightly retro and summery but in a different fabric you have a completely different look. I have this pattern and should take my own advice and make it again!

Kristy said...

I love this fabric, I find it so difficult to find nice prints in a predominant yellow colour but this one is fantastic! As usual your detailed description of the fitting changes you made are very helpful - I always learn some tip or other from reading your posts

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

Very flattering! I always see this pattern and am intrigued, so nice to see it make up, looks great.

Katharine said...

Good heavens, you've made a ionic dress, it's so perfect in every way! You look great in yellow, and the black shoes pick up the colourway just right.
I get directional shoulder wrinkles from not shortening for petite through the armscythe and sleeve, and from needing a FBA. It strikes me a possibility is the SBA was too much, or your bust fullness picked out just the right area to make those wrinkles like it did. Kudos for fixing it as well as you did. Another good thing you choose a print rather than a solid, it's invisible.

McVal said...

That print is SO adorable! I love how you line it with just whatever too! Now... if you're going to enter it in any contest, you may want to rethink the lining, but hey! It works and looks super cute!

Joy said...

I love it! All the details - collar, neck slit, waistband, dart shaping are very nice. The fabric and pattern are perfect together, too.

MushyWear said...

This is one of my favorite dresses you have made. You have styled it beautifully and the fit is superb. You worked out the wrinkle issues at the armhole perfectly. Really nice!

Anne (I should be sleeping) said...

It is just so gorgeous. Love the black accessories, LOVE the fitting information you give each time- it's very very helpful!

Isabelle said...

Love the style and fabric of this dress! This fresh yellow looks great on you. Very stylish!

Mary said...

The style, the color, the accessories are all so fresh and pretty on you!

Victoria said...

Love this! You look spectacular!