Tuesday, April 19, 2011

McCall 5890, Princess Seam Tee with Lace Trim

McCall 5890 Thumbnail

Since I planned for several t-shirts (right now the plan stands at 6, with 5 completed) for my bike trip, I have been obsessed with finding interesting t-shirt patterns! McCall 5890 attracted me with the princess seams (great for fitting) and the little cap sleeve for shoulder sun protection.

This is one of those patterns that shows somewhat dowdy examples in the photos, while the line drawings reveal good bones. I was a bit concerned about the width of the neckline in the line drawing, but it is not as wide as drawn--my neckline is out of the envelope.

The envelope actually provides the finished bust measurement!!! I feel like I haven't seen that in a good five years. This is a Nancy Zieman pattern, so I don't know if it is her doing or the fact that there was no room on the envelope for the line drawings. The instructions give you hints for sewing in short bursts of 10, 15, or 20 minutes. I am not good at that sort of sewing but it was interesting to have the various steps clocked out.

Back


I just love princess seams for getting a good fit. I shaved some bust curve off the side front piece as shown in this example (example is not the actual pattern here) and took in the back/side back seams for swayback fitting. I *think* the swayback is actually good, and the wrinkles here are just from the sash and the way I'm standing. It seemed good in the mirror holding another mirror, but it's impossible to see your own back without distorting the garment.

The top uses the same pieces as the the knee-length and calf-length dresses. This is fine for pattern-printing economy purposes but it meant that the top's hem was impossible! The pattern just has cut lines rather than extensions that provide for the hem to be the same width as the area you're sewing it to. This means that the lower edge of the top is much larger in circumference than the area you're trying to sew the lower edge to for a hem.

It really needs a hem facing but of course I was trying to hem this late at night because I just wanted to finish and I didn't feel up to messing with measuring and cutting a hem facing (which of course would have been easier!). So my hem is not great. Next time I will definitely use a hem facing, or shape the lower edge to be straighter.

Lace Application Closeup

I am not one to wear solid colors. I love a print. So sewing all these solid color tops was making me itchy. I decided to dress this one up with some black stretch lace, purchased a while back from Sew Sassy. First I serged off the seam allowances from the neckline and armscyes. Then I arranged the lace so that there was a "dip" at center front (though later when I put the top on with a pendant necklace I realized I did not quite get center front, lol--no pendant necklaces with this top!) and the armscyes were symmetrical. I stitched the lace on with two rows of twin-needle stitching, one right along the edge of the neckline/armscyes and one at the edge of the lace. I'm not totally convinced the scallops on the neckline aren't going to wilt and droop. I guess I could starch the lace, but that would be uncomfortable and quickly melt off as I sweat on the bike!

M5890


This is a nice t-shirt variation. I love hot pink, though the top may be *too* hot pink to wear as real clothes. It is almost as bright as 80s fluorescent pink, and definitely as bright as 90s neon pink. The shape is flattering and easy to adjust for different figure types, and I really like the shoulder coverage. I don't know that I would make the dress version of the pattern because I don't think it would be flattering to my figure, but if it suits you I think it would be a great travel dress.

The pattern also includes elastic waist pants and an unstructured jacket with a band-like/shawl collar. The pants hold no allure for me, but the jacket could be a nice layering piece.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

39 comments:

ashley0107 said...

Very cute! the lace makes it extra special :)
Ashley x

Rachelle said...

Holy cow! That's frigging cute! I wish I could say it in a slightly classier way, but I haven't had my coffee yet today, so my brain>mouth filter is not yet in place.

SUCH a great top!!!

DaneMum said...

You're SUCH an INSPIRATION!!!! MAking lovely clothes!!!

Sewfast said...

Love it! Made me give that pattern a second look!

KID, MD said...

I love the lace - it really makes the top. I'd totally wear it as "regular" clothes, but I love hot pink.

Connie Bontje said...

You are going to rock that bike trip! Which reminds me- I have a photo link to send to you!

Marie-Christine said...

That pink is totally in this year, so you can wear it as real clothes with confidence. But it'll double nicely as high-visibility biking attire :-).
No need to make a hem facing. All you need to do is taper in the side seams a bit from the hem fold. If you're doing it when cutting, it's easy to eyeball it perfectly symmetrical from the angle of the seam above. But it's also perfectly fine to wing it on the serger, considering that seam bulk makes that area quite forgiving.

a little sewing said...

Very cute top. Now that it's getting warm, I could use about 25 in every color.

Rachel said...

Very cute

Tanit-Isis said...

Princess seams, black lace? I'm sold! Super, super duper cute!

montanachic said...

So cute and versatile, I love it with the belt and black skirt. I also love how you use bright colors and patterns. I always enjoy looking at your blog because of it, it is so happy :)

ELMO said...

Very cute... that settles it, I'm losing some weight then coming to raid your closet:)

Adelaide B said...

That is a very cute top. I love pink and black together and the princess seams are very flattering.

badmomgoodmom said...

I love everything about the outfit, especially the shoes. Well done!

eitchy said...

I love it! Adding lace can really make a difference!

Clio said...

OOh, I've had this pattern in my shopping cart at BMV.com for a while now. This is all the incentive I need to click "purchase". Very cute - I think the lace is a great touch.

Jane M said...

I've wondered about the bones of this pattern since you are so right, the picture is awful. Now I'll have to add this one to my next sale shopping at Joann's. Your trip wardrobe is working out beautifully.

Trudy Callan said...

This is totally cute. I love how you added the lace. I have to get this pattern. The idea of a fitted T is very appealing.

Cindy said...

Princess seams are so flattering.
And love the lace trim. Lace is everywhere this season!

Mrs. Micawber said...

You nailed the swayback! Great job. I struggle with that every time. Adorable top.

Sigrid said...

Super top, love the trim.

Sheri said...

You are such a curvy girl, and this flatters your figure so well. Very cute.

Carol said...

Oh, this is cute!

Nichole McCormick said...

I'm smitten with the last photo! Something about the black and pink with lace and then a cute little tie belt. Great look! Great job!

Faye Lewis said...

Love the look of your top with the trim.

Nethwen said...

Love this! I would wear it daily with no problem. Then again, I love bright colors. I always wanted my hiking wardrobe to better fit my personality and be more street-ready. You've inspired me.

AllisonC said...

I am loving your biking holiday wardrobe concept - there has to be a market for sportswear that looks like really cute normal clothes!

Sew-4-Fun said...

Very cute! I love it with the black skirt and tie.

gwensews said...

Super T, and so dressed up! You're going to be very stylish on that bike!

Little Hunting Creek said...

super CUTE - I love the hot pink!

Luch said...

That looks awesome...I think you sew amazingly. Your choices are not always exactly to my personal taste, but this top I love!
Keep it up and thanks for the inspiration!
Heather

MushyWear said...

What an excellent fit on this. Another fun piece for your biking wardrobe!

HeathersSphere said...

Trena, I adore your very cute and clever take on this very flattering princess-seamed knit top! Although I am also a "print" fan, you also look SEW fierce in this solid color!

sewing spots said...

I *love* this t-shirt! That's a great pattern find. I really like the lace that you added, too. Very pretty and unique.

Audrey said...

I made this T shirt for the fitting advantage of the princess seams too, plus my knit fabric didn't have much stretch. Yours looks so cute trimmed in the black lace and worn with the pin dot skirt.

Kristy said...

I have never seen a princess seamed t-shirt, so thanks for sharing that revelation. I *may* be tempted to try making a tshirt now...

And the other revelation is how good hot pink suits a red head! Loving that shade on you

Sherril said...

Very good idea to use the lace. I really have to get my flower t-shirt tute done so you can dress up the next solid top with flowers!

Isabelle said...

Super cute!! I especially like the last view. You really rock pink.

Home's Jewels said...

I notice that you and I have similar fitting issues (minus the fact that I'm probably a foot taller - lol), but I think this is such a wonderful outfit for you. It accentuates everything that you want to accentuate. The length of the top is so flattering, the style of the skirt is amazing on you. Make more of this look!!! I'm going to bookmark it for my sake :)