Friday, January 21, 2011

Burda 02-2009-108, Ruffled Shoulder Boat Neck Tee

Burda 02-2009-108 Thumbnail

Cidell and I met up for some snoop shopping a while back and both loved a t-shirt from H&M with a ruffled shoulder. It was just a plain t-shirt with ruffles sewn on top, but the ruffles took it someplace awesome. I filed away the idea.

I bought this Vera Wang poly jersey from fabric.com a few months ago ($5.99/yd) because I loved the nude colored yardage I got last January. I made a Kate Middleton/Issa knockoff (coming eventually) and had enough fabric to make my ruffle top and a sleeveless cowl top.

The Burda 02-2009-128 boat neck top has been extremely popular on Pattern Review, so I thought it was time to give it a try. Also, I had traced it out for another project and figured I might as well use it.


This is one of those summary posts so here is what I did:
-Graded to a 34 at the shoulder and bust, cutting a 36 at the waist (though I ended up taking in the waist) and a 38 at the hip
-Added a CB seam and swayback adjustment
-Made the top extra long so it would definitely never show my belly when worn with jeans

Ruffles Hand Stitched to Shoulders For the ruffles, I cut strips about two inches wide (I was down to scraps so some are a little narrower), used the serger to finish the edges, ran a gathering stitch down the center and lightly gathered, and just hand-sewed in place, as you can see at left. I just sort of did my best to get the two sides to have about the same number of ruffles. I had to add more to the right shoulder after the first round. If you weren't cutting your ruffles out of scraps, it would be easier to plan for the same length for both sides as long as you were consistent in how tightly you gathered.

Mango | Mango Ruffled Shoulder Top at ASOS-1



I tried to find the original H&M top that inspired me. I didn't turn that one up but found several RTW examples of the trend. I really like the full sleeve ruffle on this Mango top. In the closeup of the ruffle you can see that they've mixed materials in there, with chiffon or organza and what appears to be some kind of metallic tulle or sequins. It lightly references a fur shrug or wrap, giving it an almost retro appeal.


3.1 Phillip Lim - Ruffled-Shoulder Long-Sleeve Dress - Neiman Marcus


I couldn't find any high end examples of this look, so I was pleased to finally find one on Neiman Marcus, a 3.1 Phillip Lim, no less. The proportions of the model looked a little unusual in the thumbnail photo, and when I enlarged I realized it was a child's dress, LOL. Clearly, I do not have the most sophisticated of taste.



Burda 02-2009-108


Unsophisticated or not, I adore this top. It's a great bit of drama in a solid color, and works well with jeans for Fridays. I'm wearing it today with a huge necklace, and under a jacket for a meeting it will look quite tame.

I'm less sold on the pattern. The poly jersey is very drapey, so there might be some degree of pattern and fabric mismatch if the pattern was drafted for a firmer t-shirt style knit. It just doesn't fit me that well. It almost looks like I could use more room in the bust, but what I think is actually happening is the upper part of the top gets caught up under the arms, catching the narrower underbust part above my bra. It's roomier than I expected at the waist and hips, and I ended up taking in an inch or so at the side seams. The neckline is very wide and shows my bra straps. Although the armscye appears high, the top still lifts several inches when I raise my arms (though the long length prevents belly showing). I don't think it will be an Old Reliable for me.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

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My own personal Annie Liebowitz (aka Cidell) and I hope to hang out next week, so I'm not going to do photos on my coat before then. Trust me, outdoor photos shot by a great photographer will be so much better than self-timer bedroom photos. It will be worth the wait.

32 comments:

Trisha said...

Love this top! Purple and with fancy shoulder---swoon!

Victoria said...

This top is SOOOOOO adorable! The color and style suits you perfectly!!!

couturearts said...

The top is great, but what I really love is the proportion of the outfit on you. The extra width at the hem and shoulder with the narrow waist are perfect.

Eugenia said...

Oh, wow, how gorgeous and clever is that! What a great idea. I love the basic boat neck top but the addition of the ruffles makes it really stunning.

Cindy said...

This is the best! I love, love the sleeves. Fabulous!

Cennetta said...

Well done! Love it!

[patty the snug bug] said...

Very cool! The shirt reminds me of Tasia's Pendrell blouse - especially the 'kid' photo!

Little Hunting Creek said...

This is super cute! what a great idea. -

Irene said...

Love the ruffles! You look super. Just one question - how do those ruffles actually work under a jacket? Not too bulky?

Uta said...

Very fun and trendy, and looking great on you! I love the shoulder detail trend, but would have never thought to "just" copy RTW. Great idea!

BABI said...

lovely ruffles! job well done! :-)

Babi
http://whenbabispeaks.blogspot.com

Our Heroine said...

Fun top, and Hello tiny waist! That's a great outfit :)

Karen said...

Super cute, I just love me some purple!

cidell said...

What a great outfit!! I remember shopping this look. Did you make the skirt too? I always wonder what to wear with pleated skirt. Mmmmm. Ruffles :)

Amanda S. said...

LOVE! I can't get enough of ruffles myself.

Sewfast said...

Super cute...must.copy.that!!!

AllisonC said...

I love your very on trend top. I think I might do something similar with one of my half done projects. At the risk of sounding very boring and practical does it look or feel weird under a jacket or are the ruffles soft enough to squash down?

MushyWear said...

This is a totally fun top and I love the color! Nicely done.

Marita said...

I love everything about this outfit, the blouse (great color, beautiful shoulder embellishing), the skirt (classic, you can't beat that can you?)The belt and the boots, everything goes together brilliantly:)

Kristy said...

I've just made this exact same pattern and am sewing on ruffles on the sleeve too (well I should be, instead I'm blog-cranating). Except mine's black, and I love your colour purple top much better- it pairs so well with the grey pleated skirt.

A Sewn Wardrobe said...

This is so cool! I would rock this untucked with (short) heels and skinny jeans for a perfect getting-drinks look.

Trudy Callan said...

Oh my gosh! How adorable is that?

Gabrielle said...

Having made this with similar modifications for fit, I totally agree with your pattern comments. I think you've done a lovely job with it though, the shoulder ruffles are a really interesting idea and the colour is great!

mochimo said...

What is it that makes me want to copy your top? It's not my style, I think that anything that puts focus at my shoulders looks horrible on me. It must be that it looks so good on you...

Linda said...

I love this top! You are so creative! Thanks for sharing as I keep saying I want to add some fru-fru to my tops. Really flattering look for you!

HeathersSphere said...

WOWWWWWW! You are just stylin' in this passionately purple top! Very nicely crafted as always!

Carol said...

Oh boy this is cute!

gwensews said...

Really cute! Ooh, la la, and cha cha cha! That's a sassy top that looks fabulous on you!

senaSews said...

Gorgeous top. Just the right amount of drama. Great job!

Adelaide B said...

I had to look at this top for a while before I could decided how I felt about it. The color and shoulder detail are guaranteed to put me off, BUT IT LOOKS SO DANG CUTE ON YOU! Pretty cool.

McVal said...

Adorable ruffles! I got my first Burda mag and am anxious to find time to do something out of it!
Be Fearless! That's my New Years resolution for sewing.

Hearthandmade said...

this is amazing!! what a great job!