Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Simplicity 7425, Vintage Coatdress

Simplicity 7425 Thumbnail

Reneeb4930 brought a box of amazing vintage patterns to PR Weekend Montreal and gave them all away! It was so incredible. Simplicity 7425I was lucky enough to receive this one, among others. I am definitely more of a 30s/40s gal than a 60s/70s gal, but something about the simplicity (ha! no pun intended) of this 1967 pattern spoke to me. I really like the funnel neck, and it has an interesting construction--princess panels with no side seams. The fewer pieces the better for houndstooth (which we all know is just another way of saying "matching plaids").

You may recall my fail of a coatdress in black and white houndstooth last year. I was really disappointed in that one. Cidell came to my rescue with some very similar houndstooth wool, which was in turn causing her frustration because there wasn't enough for the project she wanted. I did warn her when it was done that she was going to be mad for giving me the fabric, but she graciously took these awesome photos anyway on our recent trip to NYC.

The pattern had been meticulously cut out, although it had been jaggedly chopped off above the marked hem line (odd). I wasn't going to make it the full length anyway so it was no problem. I think the cutter-outer was a similar pear shape to me, because this one size pattern (size 12, which was 34/25.5/36 in 1967) had been cut along the lines at the bust and then beyond the lines to add some width at the waist and hips. I continued that trend, though I ended up with too much of an A line and had to redo all the seams taking out width toward the hem.


Lining There's not much to say about the actual construction of this simple dress. It is meant to be underlined, basically, with the neckline finished with a facing. My fabric was too thick to use a facing, so I just lined the normal way, reinforcing the funnel neckline of the dress with medium-weight interfacing so it would stand up. I would have done well to carry the interfacing a few inches beyond the funnel neck, because it sags a little at the chest under the weight of my tiny brooches, but it's not an emergency. I hand-stitched the lining to the seam allowances along the zipper edges.

Exposed Zip I decided to do an exposed zip to modernize the dress a little. Also because the fabric is too thick for an invisible zip and I have become crap at installing regular zips through lack of practice. I think next time I have to do one I will just hand-pick it. I had this one with black tape and brass teeth in my zipper drawer that was perfect, as I knew I wanted to use brass buttons for trim. It is longer than I would have preferred--I think it would look better with a waist length zip like I did on Butterick 5382, but stashers can't be choosers. I have absolutely no idea what project I had in mind when I bought this zipper.

Button and Pin detailsBecause I was doing a coat dress, I lengthened the sleeve to just below the elbow. I never do sleeves that length, but it seemed to go with the style. I cut the front half-belt on the bias to add visual interest, and added sleeve belts as well. They are just sewn onto the dress using the brass buttons as a decorative detail. I realize just how clumsy I am when wearing this dress because the buttons are forever knocking against things and making very sonorous announcements of their presence!

The pattern envelope does not lie when it shows a pin as the only possible jewelry to adorn this dress. A necklace looks hideous with the funnel neck. I don't wear a lot of gold in general so I only had three brooches in my collection (I need to show my brooch holder sometime--a very easy project) that went with the buttons. Love the little grouping!

Simplicity 2497 I just love this dress! Cidell almost got the last laugh when I realized I couldn't pull my coat's sleeves over the dress. That would make it a very niche item that could be worn only when it is cold enough for a heavy wool coat dress but not cold enough to require outerwear. I was afraid I was going to have to make a special cocoon coat that would go only with this dress, and I do not have a cocoon coat on my sewing list. Luckily, I found a coat in my closet that works with it, though it's a heavy coat so I can only wear it when it is cold enough for a heavy wool coat dress but not cold enough to require outerwear or when it is very cold indeed, such as during Snowmageddon.

Though this dress is very retro, I think it is still very wearable. The silhouette of this DVF is much sleeker and more modern than this shift, but the funnel neck is quite similar. Simplicity 2568 is a similar look, though with a cut-on sleeve.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

62 comments:

Gelbean said...

I think this dress is my new favorite thing you have made. It's gorgeous!

Karin said...

I like it! It reminds me a little of something "Peggy" in Madmen would wear, though I think you are prettier.

AllisonC said...

What an awesome dress and really fantastic photography. I like the modern touch of the exposed zipper.

Dalila said...

Another one I really like, Trena! The funnel neck and belt/cuffs are great. That's a crazy spiky globe you found to be photographed with - fun!

Debi said...

I love it!! It's really great!

Lisette M said...

I love it! I actually have that new simplicity with the cut on sleeves and have a small houndstooth fabric that I'm planning on using.

Isabelle said...

This is one of the most adorable things you've made ever. Which is saying something, considering you always make the most adorable garments!

Little Hunting Creek said...

Love, love LOVE this dress! This just shows that almost all styles from the recent past can be successfully updated. This looks so cute on you

Gigi said...

What an adorable dress, love the fabric!

judidarling said...

From the way you are standing in these pictures, it's obvious that you feel wonderful in this dress. I love the lines on you, especially the nackline. Super job and a very classy dress!

judidarling said...

Oops! That should read "neckline." The hurrier I go the behinder I get.

cidell said...

Yes. I am appropriately jealous. Looks awesome. Hopefully, I can find more of something else and recreate the look :)

KID, MD said...

I totally adore everything about this dress!! Zipper, neckline, sleeves, fabric - a total all around win. And it looks fabulous on you.

Reethi said...

Great dress, and I'm in awe at your productivity!

Peter said...

I am fortunate to have seen this on you in person in NYC. It's beautiful.

Liara said...

I love this dress! The houndstooth, the style, the exposed zipper, all so wonderful. Have you thought about a shawl for warmth when you want to wear it and the temperature isn't quite right? Or long gloves? Just a thought... It's too beautiful to wear only on those few occasions.

Kelly's Korner said...

That looks amazing!!!!

Amanda S. said...

How adorable are you? I love the fabric and retro design. Great idea doing the exposed back zipper. This dress looks like it could come from Anthropology.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Awesome! Just awesome! I love all of the special touches - bias front band, bias sleeve bands and the exposed zipper is just genius! Love it!

Victoria said...

So stunning! You look great in this! I love your whole "photo shoot".

Anonymous said...

It's gorgeous, but if your sleeves won't go in your coat, you know what that mean, don't you? Time for a cape......

Hatty

Tigerlounge said...

I pretty much love all your creations - but this might be your Mona Lisa! So chic and cool and vintage yet modern with the zipper. Love it! Really nice details, and you look great in it.

Big in Japan said...

Wow! Awesome dress and great photos! Two thumbs up!

Gorgeous Things said...

How adorable is that! You did a great job on it.

Rosie said...

Love it!!!

Lisa said...

I love it , the style, the fabric and the photography is awesome !

Lindsay T said...

You already know I love this dress! Sooooo cute on you.

spottedroo said...

Love it! Glad the coatdress worked the second time.

Uta said...

Gorgeous!!! I hope it gets cold enough so you can wear this a lot; the dress deserves it!

Our Heroine said...

I love it! You look just fabulous in this dress :)
It was fun reading what led up to this dress, too.

Vicki said...

Very cute!

meli88a said...

This is SO cute. And did you get a haircut too?

laparesseuse said...

I love this so much! Beautiful job and you look absolutely fantastic in it!

Karen

Noile said...

Wow -- you always look cute, but in this dress you look both cute AND chic! Really, really nice! Love the black gloves, too -- the perfect accessory.

Ann Brodsky said...

It's perfection! You must be absolutely tickled pink. I love the exposed zipper.

Adelaide B said...

I love this a lot and think it is very wearable!

mpressivethreadzstudio said...

I love this look on you! FANTASTIC!

sewabeginner said...

I saw the dress in person and can attest that it is just gorgeous! Love it on you. Very wearable. Beautiful!

Andrea said...

That dress is gorgeous on you!!! Just beautiful!!! You did a fabulous job on this one.

Faye Lewis said...

O,o,o,o! I think that is the cutest dress you've made all year. Now you are going to have me searching for a pattern like that.

KarenP said...

I can see why you like this dress so much - it's adorable!

Mae said...

That dress is awesome, and you look gorgeous in it. I think it deserves the cocoon coat so you can wear it lots and lots.

Amy said...

Love the fabric with the dress. I just finished my S2568 and I agree the cut is flattering and very familiar. Nice look.

Anita (Summer Gypsy) said...

I love the plaid. The dress is so flattering on you!!!

Kyle said...

That's a pretty rockin' dress! I loves me some bias detail!

Rebecca said...

Cute! Nice job with the plaid detailing

Sarah O. said...

Super cute! I love your plaid dress! Nice job!

MushyWear said...

What a retro cool dress. You look fabulous in it! Love your photo shoot too.

kbenco said...

Normally, 60's dresses leave me cold, but this one is amazingly fabulous. I love the details you have added.
"stashers can't be choosers". Snort. I adore your blog.

Kathryn said...

I seriously love this dress! MTM would be jealous!

Jali said...

You look awesome! And thanks to Cidell for these lovely pictures of you too. I'd prefer your dress to DVF, the new Simplicity version or the ones on the original's pattern envelope anyday. Gorgeous dress!

Clio said...

I love it! And I think the exposed zipper is perfect.

Elizabeth said...

You look very stylish in this coat! Great job with everything, from the fabric to the cool zipper :)

A Sewn Wardrobe said...

This is *such* a lovely dress. The shape is strangely more modern than the Simplicity pattern you tried last year.

Jane M said...

This dress is such a winner. Love the lines on it, the fabric from Cidell and your wonderful exposed zipper.

Angela said...

Beautiful dress! You look stunning in it! I think I might have that fabric or something close to it and I haven't quite figured out what to do with it. Your dress is great inspiration!

gwensews said...

Dear Mary,

I love your coat/dress. The exposed zip in the back is a wonderful touch!

Anonymous said...

What a fabulous dress; you styled it beautifully as well! Linda

McVal said...

A.DOR.A.BLE! I love the exposed zipper too!

Tany said...

GORGEOUS!!! WOW!

senaSews said...

Adorable dress. Love it with the shades and gloves. Tres chic!

Shannon said...

That dress is so bloody cute, I just want to stand up and cheer!