Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Burda 05-2010-105, Halston at Studio 54

I am in Montreal for PR Weekend this week! I will leave the real-time blogging to Cidell. While arriving here was quite the ordeal, once we were all finally here we commenced with the having fun

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Burda 05-2010-105 Thumbnail

I hadn't sewn anything from nearly an entire year's subscription of Burda and I was looking for an instant gratification "make today and wear tonight" project so I decided to give Burda 05-2010-105 a shot as a summer date night dress (last year's was my McCall negligee dress). At the time I made it, there was only one review in PR, Knitter's Delight's, which I liked.

I bought the fabric at G Street in October of last year from the $2.97/yd table for a fabric hogging design from Drape Drape. However, I haven't gotten around to the project yet. I had an internal struggle but then decided it is better to sew fabric than to save it. Right? I have several knit prints on the shelf, but I thought it would be a little more chic and sophisticated to make this in a solid. This might be the closest I'll ever get to a Little Black Dress! (Actually, I have an idea for the LBD contest on PR in the Fall, so who knows.)

This was my first time using the new twice-as-dense roadmap patterns Burda recently introduced. My biggest concern is that I have to grade most things to a 34 (the smallest size is usually 36, and sometimes 38) so the more spread out pieces were great for me, as I could always see my graded tracing line. I had to grade this down and it was definitely a little tougher to see my graded lines, but I think I can handle it. Of course, this just had two large, uncomplicated pieces. Ask me again when I trace something with lots of itty bitty weird shaped pieces.

Twin Needle Finish at Neck and Armscye Burda wants you to use a facing on the neckline, but I hate facings. They have you use a twin needle to finish the armscye, which is a step in the right direction. I used the twin needle for both. My neckline is a little asymmetrical, but my attitude with this was "disposable fashion." This is Forever 21 level sewing, although under better labor conditions with only slightly less pay. As an aside, a friend of mine had a fancy dress party for Oscars one year--we were to come as starlets. She was wearing a plaid dress she had gotten from F21. There had been absolutely no effort to match the plaids, and I almost asked her if she had made it and purposely done a horrible job on it. It was remarkably bad.

Retrofit with Skirt Lining It would have taken about 2 1/2 hours had I not decided after it was all done that I had to retrofit it with a lining for the skirt. I was afraid of serious show through should I ever wear this in the daylight, and plus I wanted a little bit of lump and bump smoothing. I did a really sloppy job of twin-needling the lining in place above the elastic casing (made of the seam allowance). I figured the bodice would drape over it, hiding the ugly.

Speaking of the elastic casing, the pattern calls for 1/4" elastic, which I don't think would provide enough strength to hold this up. It is shown in the magazine with a dropped waist, but I wanted it to sit at my actual waist. I used 3/4" elastic because that's what I had on hand, but I think 1/2" (or possibly 3/8", if firm enough) would look best.

SideThis is shown with a below the knee skirt, which does nothing for me. I envisioned it with a short skirt, so the bodice would be longer than the skirt (or at least seem to be longer because of the volume). I cut the skirt in a tube on the fold, 18 1/2 inches wide of double fabric (realized later that I didn't add any seam allowances to Burda's given width, but it didn't make a difference) and 18 inches long--Burda directs you to cut the skirt 24 1/2 inches long. I wish I had given myself another inch or so. It is not in any way obscenely short and I wanted this to be sexy for evening, but man, I am totally out of the habit of wearing short skirts. This would have been long to me in my 20s. Now it feels scandalous.

I totally love this dress. It is very effortless to wear and the look is current or even cutting edge. Well, as cutting edge as a retro '70s design can be! I went whole hog with the nude lipstick and everything for this, although I don't know that my period authenticity was noted! I love that it hides the belly, although I do keep meaning to work on belly acceptance. I recently saw this photo of Diane Kruger on Go Fug Yourself (a super fun blog). I have been totally uninterested in Diane Kruger in the past. She seems the epitome of the Generic Blonde Actress. She attends the opening of an envelope and does not appear to be an actress of any note at all, yet designers throw dresses at her. She seems very boring to me. But based on that photo--in which she is wearing a fitted white dress without bothering to hide the fact that she has an actual belly--I am intrigued. Google doesn't indicate that she is pregnant, or even rumored to be. She just has a belly, like most people. And she doesn't appear ashamed of it. I need lessons in that!

This was to be my Saturday Night Date dress this summer, but alas my date did not seem to love it. He is not a "typical" guy in most ways; given his general non-conventionality I've been kind of surprised to learn (based on his reactions to clothes I've worn) that his taste in women's clothes is *very* typical: short and tight. This dress is short and tight in some places, but I think he would like it tighter in all places. Well, it will be fab for having cocktails with girlfriends. I need to plan such an event!

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

50 comments:

Claudine said...

Wow, fabulous dress. I was just looking at that pattern last night, oddly enough. Have fun in Montreal!

meli88a said...

This is awesome and fits you so well. I need one too now!

Chelsea said...

I thought the line drawing was "meh" but it looks wonderful on you.

amber said...

Great dress! Seeing it short and pretty tight through the skirt now makes me think that this would be a perfect dress to bring with me to Vegas next month. Thanks for the inspiration. :)

KID, MD said...

Very cute!! I definitely like your version better than Burda's! I was totally put off by the dropped waist.

Reethi said...

This looks great! I've been eyeing this pattern too, after seeing Allison's great version, now, seeing yours - I must make it.

eword10 said...

Love it! I have wanted to make this dress from the day I first saw it! Thanks for the tips.

McVal said...

LOVE.IT! Can't wait for a free weekend to sew!

Tany said...

Beautiful! Boyfiends are all the same, lol!

Nancy (nanflan) said...

I think it's one of the best looks you've ever shown on your blog. Love it!!

loopylulu said...

The dress looks very cute on you. The drape and color choice reminds me of BCBG. I'll never understand why all men like short and tight. It's really not that flattering for most people AND its uncomfortable.

Trisha said...

I LOVE this dress on you! The color is great, and it looks so comfy that I want one of my own! Great job.

Marie-Christine said...

This is totally perfect! Much as I adore all your prints, I also really like your new style..

L said...

You remind me of Miranda on SATC when she was younger! Lovely picture! Very chic dress

Little Hunting Creek said...

It is well known that many men do not understand the concept of the blouson top. I like it - it's cute and very flattering.

Trudy Callan said...

You look amazing. Have fun.

Trudy
www.sewingwithtrudy.blogspot.com

Nancy K said...

You have the perfect figure for this with the top draping balancing out your bottom half it makes for an incredibly flattering dress. Pretty color on you too.
Have fun in Montreal.

Eugenia said...

This dress looks SO much better on you than on the model in the magazine. I loved the style when I saw the line drawing but went right off it when I saw the photo. Now I've seen yours I'm thinking that I would really like to make one of these. Great idea to line the skirt!

HeathersSphere said...

I adore your version, showcasing your sleek legs. Burda's is just blah. Enjoy an evening dancing below the disco ball and on the kaleidoscopically lighted steps.

Clio said...

Love it! And I agree about the twin needle vs facing.

Megan said...

What a perfect summer dress! Your modifications to the pattern all turned out so well, too :)

It's funny that you mention planning to use this fabric for a Drape Drape pattern-- is it just me or does this dress somewhat resemble a pattern from that book?

Andrea said...

This dress looks fabulous on you!! I love the shorter version. I've only been trying to make this dress for the last few weeks. My fabric is washed and ready to go. I just need to cut it out and get going. Have a wonderful time in Montreal.

Marita said...

K, this looks great on you, just made it for dd this afternoon after work, only needs hemming,neckline and armholes, superfun and quick to make, I love your styling:)

Rachel said...

I love that dress. It is definitely on my todo list. I will also make mine shorter. I am so happy you mention "disposable fashion". I sew some disposable fashion. I get some trend in my head I want to try, but don't want to fork out the money on in RTW, so I just make it to get it out of my system.

Victoria said...

What a HOT little number. You look great in this dress and I hope you make a few more:) Have fun in Montreal!

Lisette M said...

Fantastic dress! If what I'm wearing is not fitted my husband gives it a thumbs down, men...

beangirl said...

I love this on you! It's very seriously cute (and flattering to boot, so what's not to love?) Men are completely and totally predictable when it comes to women's clothing and fittedness and/or cleavage revelation.

Men. Sheesh. The only thing I can say is that this blind spot of theirs makes them very easy to please (should you be so inclined... I rarely am that inclined to be overly pleasing but I've been married for a long time.)

Angela said...

You look great! What a wonderful dress!

Capitol Sew and Sew said...

Love it! Thanks for the detailed info! okay so let's lose the boy and have girl drinks in col hghts or admans morgan or dupont! i'll whip up a garment using the same pattern - we can dress as twins and sip wine!!

Carol said...

Yes, this is cute! It looks great on you.

Susan said...

Boyfriends don't always share our taste in styles. lol.

Either way - you really look smokin' in this dress. The shorter length works great on you!

Faye Lewis said...

WOW!!!

Gail said...

Wow that looks good on you. Love your new hair too.

Lindsay T said...

Super-fun dress! Forever 21 sewing definitely has its time and place, I agree. Enjoy Montreal.

cidell said...

I think this will be the perfect knit for China, no?

Connie B said...

Lovely. Okay, lovely isn't the right word here- smokin' hot Treena. Yup, that works!

Audrey said...

All right, I have got to make this dress for myself because yours looks so great. And I also have a bunch of knits off the G street table that I bought for a draping class. Have a great time in Montreal.

Uta said...

Very nice!! I thought, "Your guy should have loved it!", but then realized DH wouldn't have appreciated the suble sexiness either. Men!

Shari said...

You look wonderful in your new dress. Great colour on you.

AllisonC said...

I love your version, I think you've got the skirt just right - the magazine is a little tight and my version is a little big. Funny my husband thinks mine looks like a roman toga but I think he still likes it...

gwensews said...

That's a great dress. It's very chic, but has an attitude!

Vicki said...

I like it! It really suits you!!

Sherril said...

Seriously, if you're calling that little bump in the white dress a belly, girlfriend, we've got to talk! The new dress is really darling. I like the short length.

DawnRose said...

Wow, I agree with everyone here. It is so flattering on you. Good job!

kaitui_kiwi said...

I just found your blog (linked from the Selfish Seamstress) and I have really enjoyed looking through your projects. You've got me rummaging through my Burda magazines finding all these patterns I managed to overlook because your versions and amazing!

sownbrooklyn said...

That is so cute!! I am trying to get comfortable with my belly as well. Especially since I have no intention of sticking to any workout plan to get rid of it ;0)
I plan to knock off this F21 dress mostly due to its tummy hiding abilities: http://www.forever21.com/product.asp?catalog_name=FOREVER21&category_name=dress_casual&product_id=2078269470&Page=all&pgcount=25

A Sewn Wardrobe said...

Hilarious that your date thought it wasn't tight enough. Men. It's a super-cute summer dress, and your hair is great! It looks awesome shorter!

I can't believe you weren't a Diane Kruger fan to this point! Ok, so I can't name 3 movies she's been in, but she has great style I think. I adored her Oscars dress.

senaSews said...

Fabulous dress and very flattering on you. Love it!

Cennetta said...

A few dollars for a million dollar look; I'll take it. Perfect fit and style.

Isabelle said...

What a super-cute, flirty dress! The length is just right for you. You look fab!