Stylish Cloche Japanese Hat Making Book Project and Review

I ordered Stylish Cloche from Amazon.jp after seeing the project made by Diary of Matter Hatter and falling in love with it. I did a google search, but didn't find it anywhere. I should have done a little bit more research; although the book was a reasonable $18 the shipping was $35 so the total cost was over $50. I see that it is now available on Etsy for $28 with $10.50 shipping, which is a little bit cheaper.

There are some pattern books for which I might be willing to pay $50, but when I received the book I realized it has just three crowns and three brims, and one of the crowns is a top-hat style crown and I already have several serviceable patterns in that style. The options are stylish and (judging from this one) well drafted, but had I known there were so few patterns I don't think I would have ordered it. Oh well, it's only money. Although there are limited options, the fashion photography in the book showing many different versions and combinations is beautiful and inspiring, as you can see in this image.

The patterns come in three sizes:
S 56 cm (approx 22 inches)
M 57.5 cm (approx 22 1/2 inches)
L 59 cm (approx 23 1/4 inches)

Seam allowances are included appear to vary somewhat depending on the piece (they are marked in the construction diagrams), but it is generally 6 mm, approximately 1/4 inch. The text is Japanese but the numerals are Arabic and the instructional diagrams are extremely clear and detailed. There is no real language barrier to using this book, which is quite a feat on the part of the technical illustrators! Hats off to them, if you'll pardon the pun.

My head is actually 21.5 inches rather than 22, but with the small seam allowances I figured I'd just sew them a little bigger if need be. However, those tiny seam allowances turned out to be a problem in my relatively thick fabric, and in fact the hat turned out too small, which is so annoying! It spent several weeks on my hat block stretching, but the stretching didn't really take. Sad. The upside is there is no chance of it getting blown off in the wind; the downside is the large welt it leaves on my forehead. In the future, I will plan to trace the pattern and then strip out the allotted seam allowances and add back my own, larger SA (I prefer 1/2 inch). Although seam allowances aren't marked on the pattern in the traditional Western manner (a dashed line along the entire perimeter), they are marked with little lines topped with a circle at various points so it shouldn't be *too* difficult.

For this project I used Crown M and Brim B in size small. I used wool tweed left over from making this pencil skirt. Actually, I cut out and made the hat at the same time, and there was pretty much nothing left of the fabric, which I thought was quite a coup.

The pieces fit together well and create a pleasing line. The crown does seem to be a smidge too tall for my head, but that may be because it is too small to properly pull down all the way.

I lined it with some of the Vera Wang Silk/Rayon blend (it's great for hat-lining, thick and slippery), and finished off with a ribbon.

Because it's too small I haven't gotten a ton of wear out of it--there is a small window of weather in which you can wear (1) a wool hat but (2) it doesn't cover your ears--but it was a promising foray into the book and I can correct the size issue on the next one. All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

Simplicity 2497, Rufflicious Cocktail Dress

A dear friend got married last weekend and the attire was "cocktail." To me, this implies something different than semi-formal. They would probably be the same skirt length, but cocktail is a little more playful and stylish, rather than timelessly elegant. It seemed like the perfect venue for Simplicity 2497. It is not your typical "short, tight, and shiny" cocktail dress (much to my date's chagrin, I am sure) but definitely has an element of playfulness as well as a tasteful level of sexiness.

The fabric is the fabric.com $1.99/yd Vera Wang silk/rayon satin I bought in a frenzy in January. The fabric was lovely when it arrived (I couldn't get a photo capturing the satin sheen but trust that it is like normal satin), but pre-treating crackled and ruined the finish.

Figuring I had nothing left to lose, I ordered some iDye in violet from Dharma Trading (why did I not also order some iDye poly in black??? I am so annoyed with myself. I feel their shipping is too high to do a small order but I don't need anything else.) The fabric took the dye well, but I did not like the way the right (satin) side looked. The color was very grapey, and although the surface crackles were gone there was definitely some kind of textured look going on, sort of like a sand-washed silk, maybe. Bottom line, it just wasn't pretty or youthful.

When Cidell visited I solicited her opinion and she said she liked the wrong side of the fabric best. It took me a little bit to adjust to the idea of using the wrong side, but it was definitely the best choice. The wrong side dyed evenly and more richly than the right side. It has a twill weave that gives a little bit of visual interest. And I had been uncertain of satin anyway as it pretty much always looks like a bridesmaid dress.

The fabric is almost beyond medium weight into heavy, which had it's good and bad points. It did not need lining, which was fabulous. On the other hand, it did not interact well with my serger so I had to flash back to the olden days and zigzag all the edges. Ughhhhh.

The neckline and armscye are finished with self bias tape and I couldn't get a great turn of cloth on them. They are fine--especially as the neckline is covered by a ruffle!--but if I'd had time it would have been better to get some coordinating fabric for the bias tape. If I'd been thinking about it I could have thrown some into the dye bath, but it was way too late for that. To reduce bulk, I used lightweight lining for the front pocket bags and the midriff lining. I wanted to do a machine blind hem on the skirt, but there was no way I could turn under the edge and then stitch the turned under edge for the hem as it would have been too thick, so I used hem lace, which gives a nice little touch inside.

The pattern instructions provide a clever and vintage-y method for installing a pocket along the side seam with the zipper. I'd run across such directions once before but moved the zipper to the center back, as is my preference. Here, I feared moving the zipper to center back would make the back too bulgy. I followed the directions, which seem complicated but aren't if you follow them step by step. I am very pleased with the way the pocket turned out, although in the end I wish I'd moved the zipper to center back. Better a symmetrically bulging center back than one normal side and one bulging side. Ugh. It's not necessarily going to catch the average person's eye, but it is obvious to me that the two side seams fall very differently (you can sort of see it in this photo; the zipper is on the same side as the pin on the midriff).

My biggest complaint about the pattern is that the neckline is LOW. I mean LOW. I have no such thing as cleavage and don't mind a low neckline but even on me this was ridiculous and showing my bra. Because of the thickness of the fabric, I had to hand gather and then hand-stitch the collar to attach. I used the ruffles as strategically as I could to provide more coverage, but really I needed to raise the neckline at least half an inch, maybe even a full inch. Also, I took about an inch total, half inch on each side, out of the width of the front bodice below the bust point for a small bust adjustment. I think I should have taken it out of center front instead so that it would narrow the neckline.

I had very little time to make this dress and did almost all of it in 30-60 minute increments on week nights. Luckily, it's not that hard. I was pretty skeptical about it while I was making it and did not think it would be flattering. I feared the waist would fall too low and the bodice would be too billowy even with the SBA. I experimented with pleats instead of gathers but couldn't come up with anything satisfactory and was running out of time so just went with gathers. I was hoping it would be one of those projects that looks terrible until the very end, but was already figuring out which backup dress I should wear.

But I think that it did end up being one of those projects that looks terrible until the very end, and when it was finished I was mostly happy with it (the bra-revealing neckline and bulgy zipper in side seam being the causes of the "mostly"). I got a TON of compliments on it at the wedding, but most people knew I sew my own clothes so I can't tell if they felt obligated to compliment me or or actually liked the dress, lol.

I don't think plan to make it again but how cute is Meli88a's casual seersucker version?

I did not have Cidell to do my pictures, alas, but I did have a human photographer who even managed to include my feet in a few shots. All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

I'm going to have to do some sewing this weekend because I am now pretty much caught up on project blogging (Ok, there is a blouse and a hat still to go)! Eep! I still have a dozen or so pieces from last year I could write about, though, so maybe I'll just do some pictures instead. `-)

FIT Museum, More Fabric, and Q&A

When I go to New York, one of my must-sees is the FIT Museum. Not only does it have high quality, interesting fashion exhibits with the clothes out in the open air rather than behind glass and (in the basement) displayed so that you have a 360 view, it's free! It's only a short walk down from the fabric stores of the garment district and open on Saturdays (closed Sunday and Monday).

I wasn't disappointed this time!

The main ground level exhibition is Night & Day (through May 11), which explores the idea of different clothing for day and evening over the past 200 years or so. It has the most temporal breadth of the exhibitions. I always love seeing pre-20th century clothes just because "ooooh, old!" Also, man, those corsets. The waists on some of the dresses are minuscule. I can't get over that people managed to live past forty without being able to breathe or get blood to their organs. The exhibit was well-curated, and includes luscious accessories in addition to clothing.

The basement level exhibition was American Beauty: Aesthetics and Innovation in Fashion, which closed April 10, unfortunately. It took a geometric approach to fashion, and grouped innovative clothing according to the shapes that were used to create them, such as circles, parallelograms, triangles, etc. The clothes were not all beautiful per se, but they were interesting and innovative and it was fascinating to see how designers imposed these constraints on themselves and worked within them. I just love the basement space, as it is a single large room with a high ceiling and the museum does such an exquisite job of setting up the exhibitions.

The stealth winner in my book, though, was the exhibition of Delman shoes. Although the brand is still extant, I had never heard of it (shows where I shop!). I love shoes as much as the next girl, but because I place my highest priority on comfort (Danskos, baby) I don't always enjoy shoe exhibitions because they generally focus on the highest, most unwearable shoes ever created by men who will never wear them. This exhibit was sensational! The shoes were generally dressy and had a heel but they weren't inaccessible to the normal woman. What I couldn't get over was how contemporary they were! I had no idea our shoe trends were as recycled as our clothing. Every time I thought I had spotted the contemporary shoe (surely that brightly printed wedge is from this year...) it would turn out to be from 1943. Unfortunately, I only just managed to catch the Delman exhibition, which closed April 3. They have some info on their website.

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Before I left for NYC, I had succumbed to Fabric Mart. I had been in love with the huge orange chrysanthemum print silk for a couple months and finally decided at $3.99 I couldn't pass it up. When I met up with Mikhaela, she mentioned that she had a hard time keeping the silk under control for her maternity dress. This surprised both of us as silk twill should be fairly easy to manage. When I received the fabric I understood why. Although it definitely has a twill weave, the weight and hand are like that of charmeuse. It's not going to be fun! I'm thinking Simplicity 2579 view B; a little vintagey, not too many pieces to break up the print, appropriate for a floaty silk.

The blue print seemed so familiar and appealing to me.... When I got it I realized that it's a bandana print writ large, which is kind of cute. I ordered it for Vogue 8633 after someone pointed out that it is meant to be made with a double knit (what? the crispness does not go with double knit) because Fabric Mart had it listed at 5% lycra. It's not particularly stretchy and unfortunately is a lighter weight than I expected--they say dress weight, I say more like blouse weight--but I'll give it a shot.

The orange stretch twill was $1/yd. When do you not need screaming orange stretch twill in stash? Heh. Actually, I will make a skirt out of it.

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A Sewn Wardrobe asks:
Are these a backlog of projects to post or have you been extra busy lately? I hope the former, as you're making me feel very unproductive!

I haven't necessarily been posting a backlog of projects lately, but I *have* pretty much been posting as I finish things, which is unusual. I usually have so much that there's no way I can keep up! I have been so busy lately and have not had my usual amount of time to sew. I was hoping this weekend would be all me, but of course it is slowly being eroded and nibbled away by obligations and commitments to the point where I'm down to just a few hours. :( I have so many sewing plans and I want to spend uninterrupted time pursuing them!

Arnysews asks of my self-collar wrap blouse:
Does the wrap stay closed or do you need to wear a cami underneath?

Part of the reason I love this pattern is that there is no gape at the wrap! So it doesn't need a cami. However, the silk georgette of the flutter sleeve version is semi-sheer so I should probably wear a cami under it if I'm going to be in bright sunlight.


I'm sorry I don't always get a chance to answer all questions. If you have a question that is not sewing related or not of general interest (such as a hotel recommendation), and you don't have a blog where I can contact you, please leave some contact information so that I can answer you privately!

Burda 02-2009-123 Self Collar Wrap Blouse, Flutter Sleeve Variation

When I first made this lovely blouse, Burda 02-2009-123, I was thrilled to have discovered such a great pattern, pulled from the ashes of Burda's inexplicable styling in the editorial. I immediately pictured it for Spring in a floral silk with a flutter sleeve.

I already had the silk in stash, a georgette purchased 3-4 years ago online, intended to be the lining to my green coat before I knew enough to realize you can't use georgette as a lining. I'm sure I paid a pretty penny for it (although I have no idea how much) and therefore needed the "perfect" pattern before I could cut into it--anything over $6/yd is too go to use, you know.

Having finally found the perfect pattern I didn't want to make it wait too much longer. I went through back issues and found Burda 05-2009-123 with the perfect flutter sleeve. I compared the armscyes to make sure it would fit. The back armscye was identical; the front armscye was slightly different but I figured the gathering would take care of any irregularities and forged ahead. It totally worked.

I really didn't change anything other than the sleeve for this variation. For the serger rolled hem, I used the left needle rather than the right needle and I think it works a lot better on my serger to have that little bit of extra space. I am thrilled with the way the hem came out. I did French seams again, and used the same technique of serger-finishing the edges of the opening and then just leaving the opening unsewn on both passes. While working with this silk was like trying to stitch together cobwebs and moonbeams using the morning dew as needle and thread, its airiness and lightweight do make for a nice French seam at the armscye.

This version came out just as I imagined it and I'm so pleased to have made use of this gorgeous fabric! It has a right side and wrong side, and I was a little nervous about how the self-collar would look, as it is formed from the wrong side of the fabric. You can definitely tell that it's the wrong side, but I don't think it looks bad, more like a design feature. I don't know if the back hem really does have that dip in it, or if I just have it unevenly bloused. Given the difficulty I had in cutting this fabric on grain, I would not be too surprised if the issue is the hem rather than the way I'm wearing it. Oh well.

All photos of both projects are here and the pattern review is here.

I did the photos without flash per Peter's request (and others have urged it over time) but I am just not sold on it. They come out dark and too red and pixielated and no amount of editing seemed to get them to look right. I adjusted the brightness on my camera to be +1 (any more and my legs disappear in a flash of white) and changed the speed to 400 (I tried 200 but apparently I can't stay that still), so I really did give it the college try. I think I'm going to stick with a flash in the future. Sorry, Peter!

Stashoholism Confessional: Back From New York

I had so much fun in New York! I took the Bolt Bus early Friday morning and can highly recommend it for the DC-NYC trip (I'm not affiliated with them in any way)--no pesky stops anywhere else to pick up passengers, only a quick rest stop (much appreciated). Then I headed to Crisp (again, not affiliated) where I met up with Elizabeth, Peter, Mikhaela, and Clio (not pictured) for some delicious falafel. Yum! We gabbed about sewing, fabric, and life in general. We modeled our outfits. Peter's shirt and Elizabeth's dress were hot off the sewing machine, while I was wearing an oldie but goodie, BWOF 09-2007-121, which I made back in 2007 and was so popular it was released as an envelope pattern. I found the matching tights at Target last month and hadn't had the chance to wear them yet, so I took advantage of the cold weather (I'm trying to put a positive spin on the weather) to sneak it in. Then came the piece de resistance, as we headed out for some fabric shopping!

First stop was Paron. I headed straight for the annex, as usual, where I found some silk organzas for $6/yd. I have been wanting to try silk organza as an underlining for a skirt to see if it actually reduces wrinkling (I am skeptical) but I don't want to pay more for underlining than for the fashion fabric! So when I saw it at that price I snapped up four yards, two in each color. Then it was off to SIL Thread where I got a zipper and some thread (too boring to picture). Then we zipped next door to Spandex House. I was determined to find fabric to make some yoga-type workout pants because all of my gym clothes are old and awful. I found the fabric, now I have to find the motivation to make such a boring project.

Alas, Clio, Mikhaela, and Peter had to head back to their real lives, but Elizabeth and I powered on to Metro Textiles. As I had promised, I mostly stuck to solid colored fabrics for pencil skirts. Kashi had a variety of colors in a nice twill-weight cotton/lycra so I picked up hot pink, red, purple, and aqua, plus a textured cotton in yellow (that I am contemplating dyeing green; now I wish I'd gotten two yards so I could do one green and one yellow). I love a heavy cotton/lycra blend for a fitted skirt because it hugs nicely *and* wrinkles less. I had to indulge myself a little, so I got a floral cotton lawn shirting (Peter twisted my arm) and a knit print. The remnant is small (who knew Kashi had remnants? He never lets me leave a yard on the bolt!), about 2/3 of a yard, so I'm not sure what I can do with it, but it goes with both the red and pink skirt fabrics and Kashi threw it in for free!

Elizabeth and I hit up several more places but I didn't find anything more. You know that part where "Alexander wept, for there were no more worlds to conquer"? I fear I have reached that with stash. Every time I was drawn to a fabric I had to acknowledge that I already had something similar in stash and walk away from it. This is good for the wallet and for my downstairs neighbors, who would be in danger if I collected fabric ad infinitum, but it is not much fun! I guess the moral of the story is that I need to sew it down so I can start over again.

Elizabeth kindly let me stay with her so I got to meet her adorable son, drink some excellent wine, and enjoy some really fabulous Indian food, plus see her stash!

It was a very productive shopping trip, if a tad too virtuous.

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Several people asked about the white skirt I wore with the tie neck blouse in the last post. It is Burda 03-2009-104; I made it last year in white and blue (left off the pockets on the blue) and love it, although the white is hard to wear because, well, it's white and it always comes home with some kind of schmutz on it.

Now that I have 6 straight or pencil skirts to make (I've, um, also ordered an orange twill from Fabric Mart) I'm going to have to find some interesting patterns! Back issues of Burda have some interesting candidates, and I am open to suggestions!