Burda 02-2009-123 Self Collar Wrap Blouse, Flutter Sleeve Variation

When I first made this lovely blouse, Burda 02-2009-123, I was thrilled to have discovered such a great pattern, pulled from the ashes of Burda's inexplicable styling in the editorial. I immediately pictured it for Spring in a floral silk with a flutter sleeve.

I already had the silk in stash, a georgette purchased 3-4 years ago online, intended to be the lining to my green coat before I knew enough to realize you can't use georgette as a lining. I'm sure I paid a pretty penny for it (although I have no idea how much) and therefore needed the "perfect" pattern before I could cut into it--anything over $6/yd is too go to use, you know.

Having finally found the perfect pattern I didn't want to make it wait too much longer. I went through back issues and found Burda 05-2009-123 with the perfect flutter sleeve. I compared the armscyes to make sure it would fit. The back armscye was identical; the front armscye was slightly different but I figured the gathering would take care of any irregularities and forged ahead. It totally worked.

I really didn't change anything other than the sleeve for this variation. For the serger rolled hem, I used the left needle rather than the right needle and I think it works a lot better on my serger to have that little bit of extra space. I am thrilled with the way the hem came out. I did French seams again, and used the same technique of serger-finishing the edges of the opening and then just leaving the opening unsewn on both passes. While working with this silk was like trying to stitch together cobwebs and moonbeams using the morning dew as needle and thread, its airiness and lightweight do make for a nice French seam at the armscye.

This version came out just as I imagined it and I'm so pleased to have made use of this gorgeous fabric! It has a right side and wrong side, and I was a little nervous about how the self-collar would look, as it is formed from the wrong side of the fabric. You can definitely tell that it's the wrong side, but I don't think it looks bad, more like a design feature. I don't know if the back hem really does have that dip in it, or if I just have it unevenly bloused. Given the difficulty I had in cutting this fabric on grain, I would not be too surprised if the issue is the hem rather than the way I'm wearing it. Oh well.

All photos of both projects are here and the pattern review is here.

I did the photos without flash per Peter's request (and others have urged it over time) but I am just not sold on it. They come out dark and too red and pixielated and no amount of editing seemed to get them to look right. I adjusted the brightness on my camera to be +1 (any more and my legs disappear in a flash of white) and changed the speed to 400 (I tried 200 but apparently I can't stay that still), so I really did give it the college try. I think I'm going to stick with a flash in the future. Sorry, Peter!

Stashoholism Confessional: Back From New York

I had so much fun in New York! I took the Bolt Bus early Friday morning and can highly recommend it for the DC-NYC trip (I'm not affiliated with them in any way)--no pesky stops anywhere else to pick up passengers, only a quick rest stop (much appreciated). Then I headed to Crisp (again, not affiliated) where I met up with Elizabeth, Peter, Mikhaela, and Clio (not pictured) for some delicious falafel. Yum! We gabbed about sewing, fabric, and life in general. We modeled our outfits. Peter's shirt and Elizabeth's dress were hot off the sewing machine, while I was wearing an oldie but goodie, BWOF 09-2007-121, which I made back in 2007 and was so popular it was released as an envelope pattern. I found the matching tights at Target last month and hadn't had the chance to wear them yet, so I took advantage of the cold weather (I'm trying to put a positive spin on the weather) to sneak it in. Then came the piece de resistance, as we headed out for some fabric shopping!

First stop was Paron. I headed straight for the annex, as usual, where I found some silk organzas for $6/yd. I have been wanting to try silk organza as an underlining for a skirt to see if it actually reduces wrinkling (I am skeptical) but I don't want to pay more for underlining than for the fashion fabric! So when I saw it at that price I snapped up four yards, two in each color. Then it was off to SIL Thread where I got a zipper and some thread (too boring to picture). Then we zipped next door to Spandex House. I was determined to find fabric to make some yoga-type workout pants because all of my gym clothes are old and awful. I found the fabric, now I have to find the motivation to make such a boring project.

Alas, Clio, Mikhaela, and Peter had to head back to their real lives, but Elizabeth and I powered on to Metro Textiles. As I had promised, I mostly stuck to solid colored fabrics for pencil skirts. Kashi had a variety of colors in a nice twill-weight cotton/lycra so I picked up hot pink, red, purple, and aqua, plus a textured cotton in yellow (that I am contemplating dyeing green; now I wish I'd gotten two yards so I could do one green and one yellow). I love a heavy cotton/lycra blend for a fitted skirt because it hugs nicely *and* wrinkles less. I had to indulge myself a little, so I got a floral cotton lawn shirting (Peter twisted my arm) and a knit print. The remnant is small (who knew Kashi had remnants? He never lets me leave a yard on the bolt!), about 2/3 of a yard, so I'm not sure what I can do with it, but it goes with both the red and pink skirt fabrics and Kashi threw it in for free!

Elizabeth and I hit up several more places but I didn't find anything more. You know that part where "Alexander wept, for there were no more worlds to conquer"? I fear I have reached that with stash. Every time I was drawn to a fabric I had to acknowledge that I already had something similar in stash and walk away from it. This is good for the wallet and for my downstairs neighbors, who would be in danger if I collected fabric ad infinitum, but it is not much fun! I guess the moral of the story is that I need to sew it down so I can start over again.

Elizabeth kindly let me stay with her so I got to meet her adorable son, drink some excellent wine, and enjoy some really fabulous Indian food, plus see her stash!

It was a very productive shopping trip, if a tad too virtuous.

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Several people asked about the white skirt I wore with the tie neck blouse in the last post. It is Burda 03-2009-104; I made it last year in white and blue (left off the pockets on the blue) and love it, although the white is hard to wear because, well, it's white and it always comes home with some kind of schmutz on it.

Now that I have 6 straight or pencil skirts to make (I've, um, also ordered an orange twill from Fabric Mart) I'm going to have to find some interesting patterns! Back issues of Burda have some interesting candidates, and I am open to suggestions!

Burda 02-2008-119 Tie Neck Blouse (and Bonus Skirt)

The project I really need to be working on right now is Simplicity 2497 to wear to a friend's wedding in two weeks. But I really enjoy Pattern Review's Stash Contest every year and have been procrastinating sewing the Simplicity dress out of new fabric to perform the traditional stash sew down. I bought this fabric at G Street in July for the purpose of muslining this blouse, Burda 02-2008-119 and actually followed through on the plan. I underlined the body of the blouse with an Ikea Knoppa sheet and used French seams for the shoulder and side seams.


To get a neat edge on the collar, Burda tells you to hand-stitch the inside collar in place. Yeah right! I followed a tip on a recent tutorial for making a nice collar (and for the life of me I can't remember who it was--if it is your tip please claim it!), which was to sew the collar in place on the inside first, and then topstitch the outside of the collar in place on the right side, rather than the other way around. So simple and so smart! These photos are of the waistband, which I did the same way.





I used the same principle on the armscyes. Rather than use a bias binding turned in and topstitched, I wrapped the armscye edge in bias tape so that it shows on the outside. I cut bias strips, folded in half the long way and pressed the crease in place. Then I lined up the raw edges of the bias strips with the edge of the armscye on the wrong side, stitched in place, serged edges, and then folded the bias strip over that seam allowance and topstitched in place. The detail is a little lost in my busy print but I like it as a nice touch.




When I first put this together I was not loving it. The neckline was way too high, almost turtleneck-y. I am not a fan of turtlenecks. And although I don't have an absurdly short neck, it is proportional to my body so it's not long either, and I felt like this was making me look like I had no neck. When the Selfish Seamstress made this recently she pointed out that the collar is kind of a cowl neck, which made me think that I could lower that high neck a little and still have a nice drapey collar effect. So I ripped everything off (remember that stitching/serging/topstitching? yeah.) and lowered the front neck two inches. I think I could have cut off even more. Although it is hard to tell with a naked eye that it is different, I feel much more comfortable with the final neckline than the original.

This is a pretty easy pattern--three pieces, no sleeves, no closure or fitting. The collar/tie is a bit of a fabric hog because it's cut on the bias, but that's not a big complaint. Although I enjoy the ease of the loose fitting pullover blouse with no closure, the silhouette is not a comfortable one for me (see also Burda 08-2009-118). It may be one of those things that I end up getting used to after a few years, like 3/4 length sleeves, but for now I like the blouse a lot, but don't love it enough to fill my closet with it.

This blouse was meant to be a muslin for the $10/yd yellow silk I bought from Kashi last June (second from left). It has a little more body than a chiffon, but is sheer with a beautiful drape like chiffon. So I don't think I'll make it into this pattern but then what???? I am slightly obsessed with Anthropologie's "On a Wing" blouse (no longer available), with the twisted poofs of airy fabric at the shoulder, but I have not the slightest idea how it was possibly made and don't want to undertake the challenge. So what do I do with this gorgeous fabric, other than let it sit in stash? ]

**edit**
Several people asked about the white skirt worn with this blouse. It is Burda 03-2009-104; I made it last year in white and blue (left off the pockets on the blue) and love it, although the white is hard to wear because, well, it's white and it always comes home with some kind of schmutz on it.

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I wanted to finish off this fabric (another yard in the stash contest!) so I made a quick and easy dirndl skirt. The blouse and skirt can even be worn together as a two piece dress. I've always thought "icky" in the past about two-piece dresses, as the term calls to mind hideous knit separates in the same print. But with a wide belt concealing the waistline, I think this makes a fun dress. It can also be worn separately, of course.

This project illustrates why skirts are so dangerous! This took around two and a half hours. So quick and easy! So flirty and flowy! However, I must stop making print skirts. For the 7 or 8 years in which I didn't have time or energy to sew (law school, clerking, big firm) I made skirts almost exclusively, and my uniform was a solid colored knit top and a bright printed A line or dirndl skirt. It is a cute look, but it is literally all I wore for nearly a decade and I am really, really, REALLY over it. It's hard to wear anything but a solid tee with a print skirt. What I really need are solid colored straight or pencil skirts to go with my print tops. Solids are my goal in New York. Although it may kill me.

I cut as many blocks of fabric as I could that were the proper length and seamed them together with French seams except one. I slapped a zipper into the open seam, then gathered the top edge. I cut a rectangle of lining and pleated it in place (didn't gather to reduce bulk), then I sewed the waistband on as for the collar of the blouse (sew to inside of skirt first, turn over outside and topstitch in place). I interfaced the waistband with a lightweight interfacing, but I think I should have used a heavier weight. I didn't want to hazard a button hole into this lightweight polyester chiffon-ish, so I closed the waistband tab with a large snap. I did a serger rolled hem on the bottom and love it!

Side note: I got my serger from eBay in 2008, a White Speedylock. It is a serviceable but not great machine. I always have trouble with loops along the right needle stitch line on the underside, resulting in an unintentional flatlock on serger-constructed garments, and haven't been able to adjust the tension to fix it. While I was still getting the hang of it I serged over 3 pins, so the knives don't always cut cleanly. The shortest stitch length is not quite short enough to get a solid bead on a serger rolled hem. Ideally it should go in for service and have the knives replaced. But I'm thinking for only double that price I could buy a Brother 1034D for around $200 from Amazon. Probably not this month because I just bought my plane ticket to Montreal which is criminally expensive from DC, but soon. Maybe. People seem really happy with the Brother.

And if you don't mind, can you take a look at my back in the back view? I think my fitting issue is that band of muscle that runs along the paralell line between my armpits. I don't think it's usual to be as wide below the shoulders as in the shoulders, and I think that what may be causing problems with back tightness. Am I on base here?

OK, well I am really chatty today. If you have read this entire post I salute you. All photos are here, the blouse review is here, and the skirt review is here.

Burda 08-2009-110, Tweed Pencil Skirt and Tutorial for Machine Stitched Lining Insertion for Invisible Zips

I have been totally into pencil skirts lately so I've been trying out the various Burda magazine patterns. This one is Burda 08-2009-110. I like the higher waist and the front pleats, which give it a little more of an interesting shape.

I made two of these, first in wool tweed from The Carol Collection and then in the rectangles fabric leftover from my Butterick 5321 pleat front sheath when I realized I didn't have any print skirts that matched my navy wrap blouse from Burda 02-2009-123.

For the first I did a swayback adjustment by folding a wedge out of the back below the waistline. Unfortunately, I shouldn't have done this because the back waistline dips down and the belt rides above the skirt. I do like the belt loops, but I left them off for the second skirt as I planned to wear it with the blouse that would cover them.

I shortened the skirt three inches by folding out the pattern above the slit. I cut the slit as drafted but it ended up cutting way, way too high (almost to my bum) and I ended up sewing the top 1.5 inches closed. For the rectangles version, I kept the same length adjustment but shortened the slit by those 1.5 inches.

The pattern includes a facing, but my wool tweed was quite scratchy and I didn't want any of it on the inside. So I fully lined it, using the same pattern as for the outer fabric. This is the method I use for getting a clean, machine stitched lining insertion with an invisible zipper. I am sure I am not the first to come up with it, but in looking at other zipper tutorials I didn't find anything exactly like it--probably because it's so slapdash!


Machine Stitched Lining with an Invisible Zip Tutorial

1. Fully construct the skirt (or dress) and install the invisible zipper in your fashion fabric. Then construct the lining other than the seam for the zipper, which should be left completely unsewn.



2. As shown above, stitch the lining to the fashion fabric at the waistband (neckline for a dress), catching the upper edges of the zipper tape and putting your stitch line just slightly above the upper zipper stops. If you prefer, you can stitch 1/4 inch above the upper zipper stops and finish with a hook and eye, which allows you to get a crisper corner on that upper edge. Generally I'm ok with the slightly rounded corner you get by stitching all the way to the zipper teeth.



3. Next, place your fashion fabric and lining right sides together, matching outer edges. THIS IS IMPORTANT: Roll your fashion fabric over your lining slightly, so that the waistline seam (where the lining and fashion fabric are sewn together--in a dress this would be the neckline seam) rolls over to the inside a few millimeters. This is what will give you a nice look on the outside and keep the lining from peeking out above the zipper.





4. Pin those outer edges together, right sides together, maintaining that roll of the fashion fabric to the inside, then use your zipper foot to stitch the lining to the zipper tape. Don't get too close to your zipper teeth or you will make the zipper too difficult to open and close, but be sure to be close enough to catch in the zipper tape. Luckily, if you miss the zipper tape you can just sew another stitch line closer to the teeth, you don't have to rip out the original, too wide line. It's a lot easier to get the spacing right on the side where the fashion fabric is up because you can see your zipper seam line.










5. Turn the skirt right side out. You are almost there--you can see that the lining has enclosed the zipper tapes and it's already looking good on the inside (I was lazy and did not remove my basting stitch for the invisible zip; I only baste one side in, as explained here. The upper edge is going to have some bulk because the ends of the zipper tape are squished in there, so give it a good steam press and then pound. Then match up the lining edges, right sides together. I generally leave an unsewn opening of a couple of inches just to make sure I don't have any trouble opening the zipper all the way. Stitch the lining seam and press open.



And voila! It looks great on the outside and the inside and didn't involve any hand sewing of the lining to the zipper tape.

All photos of this project are here and the pattern review is here.

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The plan for New York!!!! We will meet this Friday, March 26, at Crisp at 12:30 for lunch and then on to shopping. It is at 110 W. 40th between Broadway and 7th, very close to Bryant Park. The weather does not sound like it will be eat outside weather, but a girl can hope. Please let me know if you will join!

Meeting the Selfish Seamstress!

The Selfish Seamstress was in town for secret government business. This is why I love DC--everyone ends up here sooner or later for a conference or a meeting and then I get to see them without having to go anywhere! Cidell drove up from Baltimore and the three of us met up for an evening of Real Life.

We went had dinner at one of my favorite pizza places, Ella's Pizza, and then new-school frozen yogurt at TangySweet. I think it's so funny that frozen yogurt is having a sweeping-the-nation resurgence similar to its first sweeping-the-nation phenom in the mid 80s. But I must say, the new kind is SO GOOD. While the old kind is trying to imitate ice cream and is generally way too sweet and chemical flavored, the new kind actually tastes like yogurt, a little bit tangy and a little bit sour. Yum. And now it is finally warm enough to eat it again!

I have to say, the Selfish Seamstress, despite her protestations to the contrary, does *not* do a good job living up to her moniker, as she came bearing gifts. She brought fabric she had purchased in the Phillippines, taking care to match her selections up to our taste. I think she nailed it! Love this midnight blue with the gold border print; as we know I have been a little obsessed with border prints lately. I see this as a simple shift or sheath to show off the fabric.

It is so fun to meet up with sewing friends! This definitely whets my appetite for PR Weekend Philly and PR Weekend Montreal. I am so excited about going to both!!!!!

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I am also excited about my trip to NYC this weekend (though I was hoping for beautiful sandals weather, *sigh*). I still haven't booked my bus ticket (better get on that), but my plan is to arrive around lunchtime on Friday and plan a lunch somewhere in the vicinity of the garment district, inviting any who can join. If you have any veggie-friendly restaurant suggestions please let me know!