Simplicity 5914, The Classic Trumpet Skirt

This pattern is an oldie but goodie. I got Simplicity 5914 who knows how many years ago; it's possible I was still in Austin when I made it for the first time in a moleskin flocked with flowers that's still in my closet. When I found PatternReview I didn't go back and review everything I'd ever made (I can't even keep up on a going forward basis!) so I never wrote about this one.

Then when I was planning to do the mini-wardrobe contest in November this was one of the pieces, along with the disastrous velvet skirt, the silk print dolman blouse, and...honestly, I can't remember what the other top was supposed to be. It was all to coordinate with the Bennetton jacket I got from Goodwill. The skirt fabric is my one and only fabric purchase from Exquisite Fabrics, whose new Georgetown location I still haven't had the chance to visit. I was in Georgetown last weekend from a bridal shower, but Exquisite is closed on Sundays.

My last minute trip to Paris for work threw off my timeline (and no, I'm not complaining) so I didn't get it done for the mini-wardrobe--though I did finish it in time for Paris. The jacket is perfect with this skirt and also works with the Vogue 7898 asymmetric wrap dress.

From that first iteration I learned that the pattern is drafted for a giant. I usually need to shorten skirts a couple of inches, but this one needed around 4 inches of shortening. In the moleskin version, the flare was way too low; well below the knee and heading toward the calf. This was in my less sophisticated sewing days so I just chopped a bunch off at the waist (wait, that's what I'd still do) to raise the flare. however, I didn't then re-fit the waist, which I would have done nowadays. Whenever I put it on I think I should go back in and fix the waist, but I only wear it a couple times a year--I have so many clothes I only wear most things a couple times a year--and it doesn't seem worth it.

While this skirt is a TNT, it still takes some fitting adjusting because you use the same pattern pieces for the front and back. My front and back aren't shaped the same. So I have to take in the back waist. It's been easier to do this on the skirt than draft new pattern pieces.

I also took the seams in on this one under the booty because it was looking a little baggy there. The fit is very nice, although a tad va-voom-y. But since I'll never be va-va-voom at the top, I have to take it where I can get it.

I added a lining to this one for the first time. I just cut out the skirt pieces minus the facing and sewed in. I was hoping the lining would help prevent wrinkling but no dice. This skirt wrinkles heavily. The last time I wore it I used spray starch on the inside and it had no effect either. I fear I should go in and interface the whole thing. Ugh. Any ideas short of that?

I'm a big fan of this skirt and it looks perfect with the jacket. Incidentally, the pocket flaps on this (what I'm sure was very expensive when new) suit are fake! There are no actual pockets associated with it! If I'm wearing a suit it's because I am attending a business meeting or conference and need to have business cards handy for passing around. So I sewed a little patch pocket to the inside of the jacket to hold them. Much more convenient than carrying around a purse.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

Yet Another Simplicity 4539

I appreciate the comments on yesterday's dress. I totally understand the delicate intimations that this is perhaps not my best style. I should have said in the review that it is one of those things that is more trendy than attractive. And let's face it, a lot of what's trendy right now is not attractive--though the sack is comfortable to wear. Generally I look for styles that fit and flatter, but I'm totally not above jumping on bandwagons (I was in the marching band in high school, it's in my blood). It's one of those things I'll wear while it lasts and then look back on the pictures and cringe. Or probably not actually; I think at this point I'm old enough to just shrug.



I first cut out Simplicity 4539 years and years ago (probably four years now) but it became a UFO because I didn't know the proper needle to sew on my terrible plastick-y knit. Meanwhile, the pattern went out of print. After discovering the stretch needle (versus ballpoint), I finished the first one and added it to my Paris wardrobe. Then I added sleeves and made one in black and yellow for fall/winter (and my colleagues compliment me every time I wear it).

The day I left for Paris for the third time last year, in November, the Super Shuttle was coming to pick me up around 1:00. I was all packed and restless so I decided to do a realllllly quick project. That's what TNTs, especially knit TNTs are for!

I loved the black and white houndstooth from The Carol Collection, and I was intrigued by the gray underside. I wonder... The normal construction of the cowl on this top is to sew right side of cowl to right side of top, fold cowl over to the inside, and tack in place. A little experimenting and I found that by sewing the wrong side of the cowl to the right side of the top, I could fold the cowl over outward instead of inward and show a little bit of the contrast underside.

I had hoped to cut the sleeves long and wide and end them in an elastic casing, for a lower sleeve puff. But I didn't have quite enough fabric. At this point, the Super Shuttle was on its way so I hand sewed a triple pinch pleat a few inches from the end and tacked an elastic wrist band in place at the pleats and the seam while waiting at the airport. I'm a big fan of saving hand-sewing for when you have to wait at the airport.

You can see that I overlocked the sleeve and hem to get a lettuce edge.

I was very happy with my chic new Parisian top, and I felt like I'd made all the use I could of my time. All photos are here and the pattern review is here.

BWOF 10-2008-115, Stylin' 70s Gather Front Kimono Sleeve Jersey Dress

Thank you all for the lovely comments on my blouse! You've got me excited about it again. And Rosesred, if you see me in the neighborhood (which is likely, as I don't have a car and walk everywhere), please say Hi!



Well, since I declared my intentions to make the most of my stash back in January I've been very good about sticking to my plan. I bought some fabric on my last visit to G Street, which is permitted. But of course it distracted me. I became obsessed with the groovy 70s print and decided to sneak it in. I bought the fabric knowing it was low quality and flimsy (darn that print!). I assumed it was nylon but the burn test has me stumped. It burns like cotton with a slow, steady flame and a clean smoke. But it can't possibly be cotton because of the hand. It doesn't burn fast enough to be rayon, or get that rough texture when it's wet like rayon, but it has a similar silkiness and easily-snagged finish as rayon. It's cold to the touch on the hanger like polyester, but definitely doesn't burn like poly (no curling toxic smoke, no plastic bead after burning). It ends up with a sort of filmy but dry ash that smudges between the fingers. I wonder if it might be modal? It doesn't hold up to anything and already has a few snags so it probably won't even be around long enough to figure out what it is!

When I first saw BWOF 10-2008-115 it seemed like a not-quite-right substitute for Knip Mode 4-2008-13, which at the time I was still lusting over, not knowing a copy of that issue was living only an hour away from me. Plus, after how unflattering similar kimono sleeve style BWOF 10-2007-114 turned out on me, I was not convinced it would work for me. So I skipped over it.

Now that I've made Knip Mode 4-2008-13 (twice), I was more open-minded about the BWOF version. Several people have made really cute dresses of it, including Christina, with whom I share similar tastes, and the style seemed perfect for the fabric.

I wanted to get a top out of my fabric as well, and once I was done cutting out the blouse and the top I didn't have enough fabric to make a binding for the back neck edge. But I don't think I would have used a bias strip anyway. Instead I used my new favorite technique for finishing the necks of knits, twin needling over clear elastic.

The front self-facing on this is not top-stitched or otherwise finished in place. I thought I would need to use some fusible web to keep it from flipping outward, because my mystery fabric is very flimsy. However, I found that by turning the facing over the shoulder seam and stitching-in-the-ditch to hold it there it stays put while I'm wearing the dress. It also helps that I sewed higher up the center front seam than BWOF's marking (which made it very low indeed). BWOF has you sew only for about 1 inch above the seamline; I went up another couple inches (mainly so my slip wouldn't show).

After the horror show that was the back view of the Tippi Hedren dress, I decided I needed to get serious about swayback adjustments in knits. I always do one for wovens but figured knits are easy enough to mold into shape. But the swayback on that dress is so awful I couldn't live like that anymore.

In the past, I've altered for swayback on knits by adding darts and/or taking in the back at the side seams. However, while these techniques fix the excess fabric on the horizontal axis, they don't always cure the puddling from excess fabric on the vertical axis (as seen on the Tippi Hedren dress, which has back darts). So I needed to take some of the fabric length out at the swayback, which for me is about 1 inch below the waist.

It's quite easy to do, just fold out a horizontal dart, tapering to nothing at the side seam. My dart here took out about 1.5 inches of fabric, which must then be added back at the hem (it's obvious when you lay it out how much and where). I was skeptical before I did this alteration, because if you're adding it back at the hem are you really changing anything? But yes, you are.

Unfortunately, it requires adding a center back seam, which doesn't work with every print. I fear the print alone on this dress is widening, and the CB seam exacerbates the problem but at least there's no puddling!

I took in the side seams about four inches total at the empire seam to give a more fitted look. While it doesn't have the same saggy-non/side-boob thing as 10-2007-114, it was completely hiding me under all the fabric. It still has the same feel and style as designed, but scaled more for my frame.

The faux loop at the center front skirt gathering was completely lost in the print, so I left it off. The area needs some embellishment, however, so I went with a pin from my mom; I don't know how old it is and it may well be from the 70s. it disappears in the pictures, but I think it's a little more noticeable in person.

In the end, this dress stands on it own regardless of similarities to the Knip Mode pattern. It's fun and easy to wear but also stylish. It's perfect for this print, and I'm glad I gave it a shot. All photos are here and the review is here.

Now back to stash sewing!!!!!!

BWOF 09-2008-115, A Ladylike Blouse with a Gentlemanly Touch

Although I type very fast and writing comes easily to me, I still sew much faster than I blog! And then by the time I get around to writing about a project, I've forgotten half of what I did and the excitement has faded. Alas. If only I could type and sew at the same time.

This project is a victim of that fading remoteness of memory--I made it sometime in January--though I still love it. As part of my perpetual quest for winter work tops I was perusing back issues of BWOF and came across #115. It has several great details. The first thing I was drawn to was the shirred collar; I've seen a bit of this in ready-to-wear and liked it. Then I noticed the released pleats, which I think are a little more interesting than darts. They also make the blouse more of a 40s peplum-ish style, to be worn longer and with a belt. I love the 40s and favor longer blouses as I just don't have the hang of tucking.

I got the fabric at G Street right after I was gifted with the Carol Collection because I wanted more shirtings to go with all the wools in the collection. This is the first piece I've sewn from that set, so that justifies that whole purchase LOL. The fabric has a lot of stretch, which is great. The texture is a little weird. The maroon stripes are metallic and trap all kinds of lint. Before wearing it I have to examine to make sure there aren't any snarly bits of raveled fabric attached anywhere.

I wanted to have a little fun with the collar. At first I thought of doing the little collar side bands in vertical stripes with the collar in horizontal stripes but then I started going through my fabric thinking of contrasts and came up on one of my Fabric Mart tie silks. An a-ha moment! Adding a quintessential men's fabric to a a blouse is what BWOF would call a "witty detail," and I was so on board. To tie it all in (get it?), I cut the outer cuff along the fold line (with seam allowance) and then cut a longer inner cuff out of the tie fabric so that about half an inch sticks down below the fashion fabric cuff.

I got to use some of my favorite buttons from my first Fabric Mart 4 pound bag (it was still the best one, too, which makes it a little disappointing every time I order another one!). For one of the versions of the blouse BWOF had recommended double snaps. I am scared of set-in snaps because I've never had them all go in right but I liked the double button idea and went with it.

My one issue with the design is the release of the pleats at the upper back. I was skeptical of it to begin with, and when I made it as drafted my worst fears were confirmed. That is awful! I do have a rounded upper back, but I feel that even someone with ramrod straight posture would have this kind of hunchback billowing. It was an easy fix, though; I just closed the pleat up as a dart at the top. You can see that the back is unremarkable now (in a good way).

On the other hand, I hadn't narrowed the front pleat on the pattern as I would narrow a dart because a tissue fit looked good. I feared it would look awful and baggy on my bust, but actually the fit is quite nice so ladies with larger busts will definitely need a full bust adjustment.

This is a chic little blouse. It looks good both with and without a belt. Y'all are influencing me, though. The fit wasn't great when I first made it, as it was a little too big. I made my normal BWOF size, although now that I think about it I usually have to tweak the fit a little so maybe I don't really know my BWOF size. But I'd rather be a little too big and alter down than too small. I think the issue here was the unusually stretchy fabric. It looks much better skimming the body than standing away from it. I figured I'd just wear it with a belt all the time, who cares. Anyway, I was taking the pictures and went to look at the first set of photos and was like, "Ugh, that fit is terrible. I can't show this to the internet." Mind you, I had already worn it to work on the day of a big farewell party for a higher up. I don't care if all my colleagues see me in a blouse that doesn't quite fit. But I couldn't stand the thought of you all seeing it like that, so I sucked it up and took it back to the sewing machine for half an hour or so and tightened up the back pleats and the side seams to get a perfect fit.

I had a bit of buyer's remorse after making this and *then* noticing 03-2008-108, which I like because the collar is rounded and toned down without a collar stand and I'm not sure my wardrobe can use two ruched collar blouses, but I got over it.

All the photos are here and the review is here.

Here's my parting shot, what I stepped into yesterday morning on the way to work. The snow was dry and fluffy and beautiful. Today the sidewalks will be an impassable sheet of ice (ours is perhaps the only street in our corner of DC on which all the residents shovel). By the weekend it will be all melted.

BurdaStyle Kasia Skirt

Despite coming of age during the Reign (or Tyranny) of Low Rise, I'm open to new things, including the high-waisted skirt. Thus, when I perused BurdaStyle (you have to register to do just about anything on the site but it's free and I've not received any spam as a result) and came upon the Kasia skirt I was totally digging it. I downloaded it back before they started charging for most pattern downloads, but Kasia is still free because it was based on a design submitted by a BurdaStyle member.

It comes in a generous range of sizes (34-46) and is easy to download, print, and tape together. The taping together is a bit tedious, but the markings are clear on which pages go where. The pieces are laid out more like a Big 4 tissue than a BWOF pattern; the pieces don't overlap so it's very easy to trace out (though it would take less paper and taping time if they did overlap). The pieces themselves are well drafted, have useful markings, and go together well. I was worried about the gathered side panels drawing too much attention to my rear view, but in the end it just adds a little interest without being too blatant.

This is a popular pattern on BurdaStyle; a browse through the gallery shows it made up in a wide variety of fabrics for all different seasons. I decided to go for a transitional piece and make it in a winter white moleskin I got from Joann. I'm not sure what it is about this fabric that I love so much. It's got kind of a crushed faux suede look and is subtly metallic. I'm not majorly into suede (faux or otherwise) or metallic, and yet somehow the combination works for me in this.

Moleskin is not easy to gather or ease, so the side inset panels were a bit of a challenge. I now see why cotton is such a popular choice for this skirt. And as an aside, moleskin wrinkles like crazy! I did not expect it at all of a heavy polyester fabric, but it is pretty annoying. The light color might not have been the best choice because I feel like my stomach bulges noticeably under it (not in the photos, but after I've eaten or something), but that is mostly my self-consciousness, I think.

The only modification I made was to add a snap to the bib to hold the outer bib over the zipper. I was having a little trouble with it sagging down and showing the top of the zipper and it just didn't look good. The snap is an easy fix. You can see the buttons in the closeup, a fun bright gold metal button with a crest from a Fabric Mart 4 pound bag of buttons.

My only complaint with the pattern is that the front bib lining goes only about halfway down the skirt. When I was planning this skirt I intended to make the inner front panel go the full length but then forgot while cutting and didn't have enough fabric to recut it. If you know it's there, you can see the ridge of the bottom of the inner panel at thigh level and it just looks a little tacky.

Other than that quibble I am totally loving this skirt. It looks good with a sweater *and* a Spring t-shirt. However, I'm having a little trouble styling it because I like it as a more dressy skirt, but I feel like it looks weird to have a blouse with center buttons while the skirt has side buttons. It seems like too many buttons going in too many directions. However, some of the girls in the photo gallery on BurdaStyle are wearing button blouses and they look cute. Maybe the thing is that the buttons on the shirt have to blend...which is not my modus operandi with buttons! I like them to make a statement.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.